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I have reviewed all the forums, discussions, posts, and youtubes for a solution. I have a 2004 F350 6.0l (build date 0404) with the "log" style oil rail. I was able to remove the valve cover with no problem. I removed the dummy plug with no problem. I removed the upper half of the stand-pipe. But, I cannot remove the lower section. I removed the bolts from the oil rail and cannot separate the oil rail from the head due to the lower stand pipe. I have tried all possibilities with no success. I am about ready to get a hack saw to slice the stand pipe in half so i can get the rail out. Went through an entire sleeve of thin mints in frustration. Please help.
If you have the log rail, you don't have a dummy plug. There's a flexible hose going from the rail to standpipe and the standpipe shouldn't be keeping the rail in. If you have the wave rail, once you remove the dummy plug and the top half of the stand pipe the rail should come out, it shouldn't hang up on the bottom half. Pictures?
And a side note, using a hacksaw on part of the truck were oil would wash the shavings down into the oil is a gerneally bad idea.
First mistake is it isnt the log but the way. Second, I meant I was frustrated enough to hacksaw it not that I would. I appreciate your concern though. Hope these photos work.
Did the lower half come out part way? You could try reinstalling the rail bolts, then reinstall the top half of the standpipe, then reverse to see if the lower half gets pushed back in all the way.
The lower half is in solid. The top half of the standpipe is independent of the lower. The upper looks like it cups to the lower. Does the lower have to come out through the top or can it be tapped out toward the head?
Watch this starting at the 7:25. Is this how you're trying to take out the rail? Don't get the bottom ahead of the top, you have to rotate the rail towards to evap housing to get the bottom half of the standpipe to clear the bottom of the rail.
Yes, except for the pulling the rail off so easy. In my picture you can see the standpipe sticking out of the bottom of the rail in disappearing into the head. The evaporator housing is preventing me from getting the rail completely out. I wasn't sure if there was a way to separate the pipe from the rail instead of removing the evaporator housing.
A couple options, I have read you can wrap the bottom of top half of the standpipe that came out with a couple layers of electric tape and tap it back in then pull the whole thing out, or needle nose vise grips will just reach the bottom half and leverage it out with a pry bar. It should come out with just a little more pressure than it took to get the top half of the standpipe out.
I made this tool for pulling the stand pipe out. I'll look and see
if I can find the post I made about it.
The screw expands the rubber hose and that will grip the inside
of the pipe to let you pull it out.
The host is 1/4" ID and I think 3/8 OD The bolt was a 1/4 20 socket screw
not sure on how long and the top is a threaded ****. The silver things are 2
rivnuts with small grip heads so that it will fit down into the pipe and
are aluminum so that they don't scratch.
Practice with the drivers side lower part of the standpipe(on my truck the whole unit on drivers side came out easy) using whatever your can find to wedge in enough that will let you pull it out. I loosened the oil rail and did not remove the ac box. Oil rail for me had to be loose to enable the new pipe to go in as one piece. IIRC 69CJ said that he had installed the new lower half of the standpipe and then inserted the upper half. Might look for those posts in march,april of this year. Yakiko's examples I think would work great.
<p>I would try a large pair of channel locks to grab the standpipe and pry against the rocker box to pop it up, just be sure to lay something between the rocker box and the channel lock so you don't damage the sealing surface.</p> I can't imagine it would take too much force.
Less than two weeks ago, I was in the same situation. I whittled a piece of wood down to a bevel and drove it into the lower section. Slid right out. I didn't take my rail loose. I did have to cut the dowel to the perfect length to clear the heater box on the passenger side.
Thank you all for your input. I wound up removing the right front wheel, loosened the fender, removed the wheel well liner, and evaporator cover. That allowed me enough room to remove the rail and tube. Plus, it will allow me the room to install the new tube. Granted it added some significant time to the repair, but I have the time.
A couple options, I have read you can wrap the bottom of top half of the standpipe that came out with a couple layers of electric tape and tap it back in then pull the whole thing out, or needle nose vise grips will just reach the bottom half and leverage it out with a pry bar. It should come out with just a little more pressure than it took to get the top half of the standpipe out.
I recently updated my standpipes and dummy plugs. Prior to doing so I sleuthed the forum and found this thread and post by Rusty Axlerod.
The passenger side standpipe came out as one piece which I separated so I could pull each out individually without having to loosen the oil rail to clear the evap box. The lower part of the standpipe on the driver side, however, did not come out with the upper. I used the electrical tape technique and it worked like a charm.
I wiped the oil off the upper piece, then degreased the lower part of it with some electrical contact cleaner and a paper towell, and put 2 1/2 to 3 wraps stretched tightly to the lower part. I had to tap it in with a mallet to get it started screwing in, carefully so as not to damage the threads, then screwed it in to bottom. Unscrewed it and pulled them both out as a single piece. One less wrap might have got it, but this worked the first time for me.
Wrap the tape stretched tightly on the inner bevel point so the tape edge doesn't roll back when pushing it in. Pic of it below as it came out in one piece.
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