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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Bottom half standpipe stayed in

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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 08:46 PM
  #16  
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So he cant leave the lower half in there. That is the original style standpipe, not the updated 05'
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 09:09 PM
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I guess I'll have to pull the oil rail. Is it just all the Torx bolts and o rings on the injectors?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Shelbynut
I guess I'll have to pull the oil rail. Is it just all the Torx bolts and o rings on the injectors?
Know anyone at your dealership? Theres a tool for that (ford issued)
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 10:24 PM
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Just pull out the bolts and pull up. Reinstall in opposite order. Just after you get the rail removed from all of the injectors hold it over the head while the oil drains out.

Sent from my leash using IB AutoGroup
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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On my 06, had to remove oil rail on passenger side to get out the old style lower section of the stand pipe. Ended up using a beveled small saw blade as a extractor tool and it came out easily; nothing else would fit that I could find in the junk box. First time for me with limited tools, so would not recommend this to anyone else. The top half of the stand pipe from the drivers side would not pull it out either, saw blade was my last resort.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 11:01 PM
  #21  
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i guess we'll see how it goes in the morning when I sober up.. If I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any at all! And it all started by fraud from PMM with a kit they said was "their own made in the USA. At least Dorman is paying for it all.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 07:53 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by gwg42
On my 06, had to remove oil rail on passenger side to get out the old style lower section of the stand pipe. Ended up using a beveled small saw blade as a extractor tool and it came out easily; nothing else would fit that I could find in the junk box. First time for me with limited tools, so would not recommend this to anyone else. The top half of the stand pipe from the drivers side would not pull it out either, saw blade was my last resort.
His being an 04' his original style standpipe is different than what our 06's came with. You can see a side by side comparison in this PDF from the tech folder, https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...s%20Update.pdf
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 08:14 AM
  #23  
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I used a pair of these to grab the outside of the tube and pry upwards: Pliers,Mechanics Grabber - Rakuten.com Shopping

Since you're replacing the complete standpipe bending the old tube doesn't matter anyway.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 09:20 AM
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Finally!!! Found a drill bit 1/64 larger than hole. Ground a taper up about 3/4" and tapped it in. Drivers side done and wonderful looking passenger side to go.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Shelbynut
Finally!!! Found a drill bit 1/64 larger than hole. Ground a taper up about 3/4" and tapped it in. Drivers side done and wonderful looking passenger side to go.
I see you have a new "sober" perspective! lol.

Hope all goes well from here...
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 09:40 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Shelbynut
Finally!!! Found a drill bit 1/64 larger than hole. Ground a taper up about 3/4" and tapped it in. Drivers side done and wonderful looking passenger side to go.
When you do the passenger side you will have to remove the oil rail bolts and slightly pick up on the oil rail to get the correct angle to get the standpipe to clear the evaporator housing, the torque on the oil rail bolts is 10 ft/lb.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 10:27 AM
  #27  
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Thanks again. I was looking at the Haynes manual and didn't like what it said. Just to get the valve cover off it has you pull the alternator, heater hose and piping and the motor mount to lift the side of the motor.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Shelbynut
Thanks again. I was looking at the Haynes manual and didn't like what it said. Just to get the valve cover off it has you pull the alternator, heater hose and piping and the motor mount to lift the side of the motor.
Loooooord no. CAC pipe, glow plug module, unbolt trans dipstick tube as you take off the valve cover bolts and MAP hose. 12mm flex head gear wrench is your friend for getting to the back lower valve cover bolts. Oh, and the oil fill tube.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Loooooord no. CAC pipe, glow plug module, unbolt trans dipstick tube as you take off the valve cover bolts and MAP hose. 12mm flex head gear wrench is your friend for getting to the back lower valve cover bolts. Oh, and the oil fill tube.
I leave the MAP hose alone, but do relocate the heater valve line.

Josh
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 03:43 PM
  #30  
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I finally got the passenger side changed. Stand pipe came out pretty easy. The top o ring was definitely leaking. Oil all over and in the square hole to remove it. The fun part was putting in the new one. The only 30 torx I had was too long to fit by the evap box. I pulled the heat shield out of the way and removed enough material with a burr file in a angle air grinder. I didn't even have to go all the way through the plastic. And yes, I covered everything up first. Now to put it all back together. The dang thing better run after all this-oil cooler, HPOP, IPR, stand pipes and dummy plugs! There isn't really any place else for a HPO leak is there? At least I'm not paying for it!
 
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