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01' 7.3 wont start

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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 01:47 PM
  #1  
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01' 7.3 wont start

I have replaced HPOP,CPS, Injector O-rings. I did all of this 2 weeks ago now the truck wont start again. I am in dire need of suggestions before I sell this truck
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 02:07 PM
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Did you check all the fuses ? Are you getting anything.Do you have WTS light ? Does it crank- More info would help
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Does your 'wait to start' light come on?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 04:44 PM
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Check the injector wiring harness. After i swapped my injectors i had one of the plugs pop off and the best i could get out of it was a sputter. Plugged it back in and it's been good since.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 05:26 PM
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Information.......like everyone asked.....

WTS light?
Does it crank?
White smoke?
Battery voltage?

Was it not starting before you changed those things? (ie. was that the reason you changed them?)
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:14 PM
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a couple of weeks ago my truck would crank white smoke. when the truck was warm it would not start had to be cold. had HPOP replaced. still would not start when warm. me and a buddy replaced all 8 injector orings has ran fine for the last 2 weeks. my wife was at a drive thru yesterday shut it off to make order. started up drove up to get order shut it off cause she could not hear the lady in the window. it would not start. after I got off work went over to the truck the batteries were almost dead. jumped it. started up. let it run for 25 min to charge. went out this morning and my truck would not start. yes the WTS light came on. I heard a clicking noise inside while I was attempting to start.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:26 PM
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Are you sure it's actually charging? A clicking or buzzing under the dash is a sign of low voltage. How old are the batteries?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:29 PM
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Low voltage, probably a bad cell or bad connection(s) to ground or battery cables. Take a look at your ground wires really closely. If it isn't the connection, then cut a little slit (maybe an inch) in the insulation of the cables close to the batteries and the ground, looking for green powder mixed in the cables. If that all looks good take the batteries out and have them load tested. I am betting it is either a bad cell or corrosion of some sort. None of that should cost you any more money and is easy enough to check.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Damn Pika, you beat me to it...again...
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:31 PM
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Lol. Sorry!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #11  
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Sounds like your battery. The alternator is good for recharging the little bit of juice you use starting it up, but trying to recharge a completely dead battery is asking a bit much. Assuming the alternator is good.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:41 PM
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I just replaced the batteries 12 months ago
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:44 PM
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When my alternator went out it never set off the battery light. My guess is it was putting out just enough to not set off the light, yet not enough to recharge the batteries. I know that like works properly because the new Autozone alternator failed the day after i put it in and the battery light popped on.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:48 PM
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Clicking noise is a chattering relay, it always indicates low voltage. You have something going on with low voltage. Our IDM needs to see 10.5 volts in order to drive the injectors, so chattering relay, no start...low voltage.
 
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