No.. increased pressure results in later(higher rpm) and firmer shifts but you can only go so high before it starts negatively affecting downshifts. It's perfectly safe to experiment with TV cable preload as long as you stay above the minimum recommended level so the trans doesn't start slipping.

 

First off guys.... STOP DRIVING YOUR TRUCKS!!!!
You need to first decide how you want your transmission to shift.
Then you need to decide when you want it to go into overdrive.
Last, you need to be committed to getting this right.

You also have two rules to follow.... First, make sure "kickdown" is adjusted correctly for what you want to do with it (race, cruise) at all times. Second, manually shift it from overdrive to drive BEFORE you floor it, beat it, or otherwise drive it like grandma.

Ok. Don't give up.
So here's how I feel about that video... It's wrong (throw in some insults) and if you do it like that, you'll ruin the trans in no time. Take two 1/4-20 nuts and cut a slit in them with a hacksaw, then pull the cable he adjusted out, and add those two nuts along with some tape to hold it together, you'll have a whole new awesome shifting transmission.

But those of you who have custom applications, you're tricky.
You need to make sure that you have enough travel in your throttle linkage, to fully travel the "kickdown" lever at transmission. And really, if you need to shorten the arm some, no big deal. You don't want the lever to limit pedal travel, but in these custom applications you need to make sure you're getting enough pressure at idle, which isn't zero by the way, and then you need to make sure that when you're at peak torque and all the way to peak hp, you have the most pressure the thing can afford. So you may need to play with lever length and throw and stuff like that. I've added a spring on the cable, because I want max pressure at 3/4 throttle on my car, and the spring compresses when lever is bottomed out of its travel.

The more tension, or pressure you put on the "kickdown" the harder and later it will shift, and the sooner it will come out of overdrive when you ease into the throttle.
The less tension, the smoother and earlier it will shift, kinda slide into gear, slip into overdrive, and hold od while cruising the highway.
Shift kits... Only will address the early od shift. It will hold 3rd gear til a higher speed mechanically with the governor adjusted, vs with the kickdown adjustment making it shift hard and stay out of od.
Keep these things cool. I never had issues with mine, but heat kills.

I've had a love/hate/hate/ok relationship with these things. I've had 4, maybe 5 or 6 in my 67 mustang fastback. They are tough transmissions if you follow the rules.
The issue with any of these transmissions is, when you let it shift from overdrive by itself, when you smash the gas pedal to the floor, it will shift to 2nd gear, and be fully locked before it is completely out of overdrive..... Meaning it's in two gears at once, and it will shear off the input shaft, if you're lucky. I've had two of the 3 input shafts shear off, I've twisted the splines of the big input shaft, I've welded the torque converter to the shafts, I've had things rattling around inside from something exploding, I've had so much fun.
My first trans was built by a local shop with a very knowledgable guy, who built it for my 400hp motor, and got me a 2500 stall converter. He adjusted the trans for me and said it was good to go. It sucked and I brought it back. He added some tweaks and I was happy for the time. About 2 months later I blew up my trans, pissed and needing to drive it, I put a bone stock grand marquis trans in... And I figured out how to adjust it myself. It was better than my expensive one I had built. I put slicks on the car and drag raced it every weekend.

Hands on training, with plenty of failures and success. Every time I blew one of these up though, it was my fault, because I didn't follow rule 2... Downshift manually out of od.
Always follow rule 2.

 

Wow, I did not realize how lucky I have been. I set mine to specs at idle with a pressure gauge, always leave it in drive since my column is non od, and it has worked perfect for years. It was an original 70,000 84 trans and continues to operate flawlessly.

 

I can live with the video being wrong(as a matter of fact, I printed out your instructions), but the video was for a motor with factory fuel injection. Are your instructions for an OEM injected engine? I suspect the radius for carbed car vs. an injected motor are two different specs and thus Lokar sends a spacer with their kit?

 

What do you mean "my column is non od". The aod uses the same 6 position shifter as a c4 or c6 trans, as well as the angle of rotation from park to 1st is the same. It's not like you're missing a gear position.
As far as your "luck", I'm sure in your application it's fine. In my custom applications where things are not stock and motors are not original, and power is raised significantly, factory settings do not work.
I am hard on equipment I guess, but how about you take my experience and lessons learned and use it to your advantage.
These guys were talking about issues and I am genuinely concerned they are going to damage their trans. They need to address some issues before they continue to drive their trucks.

 

My instructions are universal. I've had plenty of grand marquis with a rod to the kickdown as well as foxbody mustangs with cables and a few trucks with aod. My 302 ranger I just made a turn buckle and set the pressure to be the same always. No link to the throttle.
The factory settings can always be tweaked for optimum shifting or your personal preference.
Read the lokar directions and follow them, then realize you may need to tweak them slightly depending on your driving style, power output, and just plain differences on transmissions.

 

I've always thought of it this way.

Pull the TV cable out as far as it will go (full pressure), open the throttle up to WOT and connect them together so they meet at this point.

You want full pressure at WOT, this is the most critical thing.

test drive. If it shifts too high or too aggressively, you can back off the TV in tiny incriments until it feels right.

You need 35 PSI as soon as you move the throttle lever about a dimes width.

if you only have 35 PSI at 2000 rpms, IMO, you need to adjust for slightly more line pressure. This also agrees with it not down shifting.... not enough line pressure.

 

That's another good starting place. Drive it easy til you know it's not slipping and then adjust from there.
These are great transmissions. I had great luck with mine dispite the few I've blown up, which was my own fault. If I had a sbf in my car again I'd probably use one.

 

OOCH! did not mean to upset, just adding my experience, sorry man.

 

Not upset, just asking for clarification.
Like I said, your application is different, because they are having problems and you are not.
I am genuinely concerned they may damage their trans, so I am clear and to the point on my explanations. I throw in my personal experience as an example sometimes to let people know I've messed up and learned the hard way, I'd rather not have people make the same mistakes as myself, when it's unnecessary.
I don't claim to know it all, and can appreciate it when someone either clarifies my statements or corrects them. I don't like giving out incorrect info when I believe it to be correct.