Cab removal.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
The front under the cover ones may be a little rusty, mine were. Your rear bolts are like mine, right in the open. The left side may be a slight problem, these have nuts on the bottom and the left side is not very accessible with the front tank installed.
I took my front ones loose and jacked one front corner at a time up to remove the upper frame gusset bolts for the C6 after I installed the E4OD.
I took my front ones loose and jacked one front corner at a time up to remove the upper frame gusset bolts for the C6 after I installed the E4OD.
Did jacking up the front bend anything?
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
I'll take any advice I can get. I'm like a sponge at this point. Would love to see some pictures if anyone has them? I've seen other posts where they show the cab off the truck and all, but I want to see what i'm up against...first-hand ya know?
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
PM Gary Lewis, or start on his "Dad's Truck build" thread.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,394
Likes: 5
From: cincinnati ohio
the things you want to spray/soak is the bottom side of the bolts, they thread into the metal sleeves that hold the body bushings, because you cant get to the good part to spray, because it is sandwiched between the cab and frame.
and all four of the sleeves are accessible with a breaker bar and a socket, you just need an extension for the drivers side rear one. then an impact on the top side, it is really extremely easy, you may be over thinking it, the 84 was a basket case rust wise and all 4 came off not any huge issue, we just use wd40.
if you really want any more in depth, look through both my build thread sections where we took the cabs off. also have pics of the sleeves in both of those as well. but like i said, really not hard at all. and on the 84 front ones under the cover in the floor pan, the floor and screws were so rusted i just cut the head of the screws off with a wiz wheel, and pryed the cover upwards.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...frameswap.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13448957
any other questions just continue to ask
and all four of the sleeves are accessible with a breaker bar and a socket, you just need an extension for the drivers side rear one. then an impact on the top side, it is really extremely easy, you may be over thinking it, the 84 was a basket case rust wise and all 4 came off not any huge issue, we just use wd40.
if you really want any more in depth, look through both my build thread sections where we took the cabs off. also have pics of the sleeves in both of those as well. but like i said, really not hard at all. and on the 84 front ones under the cover in the floor pan, the floor and screws were so rusted i just cut the head of the screws off with a wiz wheel, and pryed the cover upwards.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...frameswap.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13448957
any other questions just continue to ask
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
If the transmission is out of the truck when you install the cab on a chassis, the transmission cross member will probably be out. You'll want to have the four bolts for the cross member gussets installed in their holes in the frame before you bolt the cab down. Those bolts are trapped in the frame by the cab floor.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,394
Likes: 5
From: cincinnati ohio
If the transmission is out of the truck when you install the cab on a chassis, the transmission cross member will probably be out. You'll want to have the four bolts for the cross member gussets installed in their holes in the frame before you bolt the cab down. Those bolts are trapped in the frame by the cab floor.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
the things you want to spray/soak is the bottom side of the bolts, they thread into the metal sleeves that hold the body bushings, because you cant get to the good part to spray, because it is sandwiched between the cab and frame.
and all four of the sleeves are accessible with a breaker bar and a socket, you just need an extension for the drivers side rear one. then an impact on the top side, it is really extremely easy, you may be over thinking it, the 84 was a basket case rust wise and all 4 came off not any huge issue, we just use wd40.
if you really want any more in depth, look through both my build thread sections where we took the cabs off. also have pics of the sleeves in both of those as well. but like i said, really not hard at all. and on the 84 front ones under the cover in the floor pan, the floor and screws were so rusted i just cut the head of the screws off with a wiz wheel, and pryed the cover upwards.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...frameswap.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13448957
any other questions just continue to ask
and all four of the sleeves are accessible with a breaker bar and a socket, you just need an extension for the drivers side rear one. then an impact on the top side, it is really extremely easy, you may be over thinking it, the 84 was a basket case rust wise and all 4 came off not any huge issue, we just use wd40.
if you really want any more in depth, look through both my build thread sections where we took the cabs off. also have pics of the sleeves in both of those as well. but like i said, really not hard at all. and on the 84 front ones under the cover in the floor pan, the floor and screws were so rusted i just cut the head of the screws off with a wiz wheel, and pryed the cover upwards.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...frameswap.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13448957
any other questions just continue to ask
Thanks again!
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
If the transmission is out of the truck when you install the cab on a chassis, the transmission cross member will probably be out. You'll want to have the four bolts for the cross member gussets installed in their holes in the frame before you bolt the cab down. Those bolts are trapped in the frame by the cab floor.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
If you mean you'll install the trans while the cab is off, that should be easy.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,394
Likes: 5
From: cincinnati ohio
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,394
Likes: 5
From: cincinnati ohio
no problem
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