Cab removal.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
Cab removal.
Hey guys, warm weather is right around the corner, and we all know what that means....time to work on the truck!!
I am in the process of buying a 3rd truck to complete my project. In the end, i'll basically have an extra cab I won't know what to do with other than put it on the frame of my current truck and ship it off to the junk yard or sell it as a project for someone?
I've seen loads of pictures of guys taking their cabs off, and I was wondering what's the best way of going about it?
Where are all the bolts located? How many?
Anything to watch out for when doing it? Any pointers?
I have access to a lift so i'm sure that will make things much easier. I don't have access to a bobcat or forklift where I could strap the cab to to lift it off, but I can manage otherwise.
Thanks.
I am in the process of buying a 3rd truck to complete my project. In the end, i'll basically have an extra cab I won't know what to do with other than put it on the frame of my current truck and ship it off to the junk yard or sell it as a project for someone?
I've seen loads of pictures of guys taking their cabs off, and I was wondering what's the best way of going about it?
Where are all the bolts located? How many?
Anything to watch out for when doing it? Any pointers?
I have access to a lift so i'm sure that will make things much easier. I don't have access to a bobcat or forklift where I could strap the cab to to lift it off, but I can manage otherwise.
Thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
From: Haysville, KS
Depends on the year truck. On my 63 4x4, there were just 4 bolts, easily accessed from under the truck.
In terms of lifting it, lots of threads on using engine hoists and the like. I ended up buying a HF Gantry crane. Worked perfect and I was able to remove and install the cab by myself. Lots of uses for that crane; pulled the bed, the engine, moved my compressor, etc. One of the smartest buys I made.
I padded a 2x6 and ran it through the doors (windows down..) and hooked a strap to each end of the 3x6. The front end is heavier than the back so you need to find a way to keep things balanced.
In terms of lifting it, lots of threads on using engine hoists and the like. I ended up buying a HF Gantry crane. Worked perfect and I was able to remove and install the cab by myself. Lots of uses for that crane; pulled the bed, the engine, moved my compressor, etc. One of the smartest buys I made.
I padded a 2x6 and ran it through the doors (windows down..) and hooked a strap to each end of the 3x6. The front end is heavier than the back so you need to find a way to keep things balanced.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
Depends on the year truck. On my 63 4x4, there were just 4 bolts, easily accessed from under the truck.
In terms of lifting it, lots of threads on using engine hoists and the like. I ended up buying a HF Gantry crane. Worked perfect and I was able to remove and install the cab by myself. Lots of uses for that crane; pulled the bed, the engine, moved my compressor, etc. One of the smartest buys I made.
I padded a 2x6 and ran it through the doors (windows down..) and hooked a strap to each end of the 3x6. The front end is heavier than the back so you need to find a way to keep things balanced.
In terms of lifting it, lots of threads on using engine hoists and the like. I ended up buying a HF Gantry crane. Worked perfect and I was able to remove and install the cab by myself. Lots of uses for that crane; pulled the bed, the engine, moved my compressor, etc. One of the smartest buys I made.
I padded a 2x6 and ran it through the doors (windows down..) and hooked a strap to each end of the 3x6. The front end is heavier than the back so you need to find a way to keep things balanced.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
From: Haysville, KS
nope. The top of the door frame is pretty strong. No dents or other issues at all.
Here it is the 'new' cab installed on the frame:
And with the front clip installed:
Using the crane, I was able to do it all by myself. Good thing because with my hours, I do most of the work on the truck between 11pm and 7am..
Here it is the 'new' cab installed on the frame:
And with the front clip installed:
Using the crane, I was able to do it all by myself. Good thing because with my hours, I do most of the work on the truck between 11pm and 7am..
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
Wow, beautiful truck. I see your username is KsCop. Are you an officer in Kansas? I have a cousin who's on the Kansas City PD in MO. I too went to school for LE, but couldn't find a job, and when the bills came due, decided to go into something easier and isn't going to get me killed...IT, lol.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 0
From: Haysville, KS
I tried to get into LE when I was 21
Life happened and I needed to make money to support a new family - went into IT
Sound familiar?
20 years later finally made my dream come true
Got hired, went through the academy, finished #1 in my class and have been working the streets for 6 years
Also an LE firearms instructor
Life happened and I needed to make money to support a new family - went into IT
Sound familiar?
20 years later finally made my dream come true
Got hired, went through the academy, finished #1 in my class and have been working the streets for 6 years
Also an LE firearms instructor
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
I tried to get into LE when I was 21
Life happened and I needed to make money to support a new family - went into IT
Sound familiar?
20 years later finally made my dream come true
Got hired, went through the academy, finished #1 in my class and have been working the streets for 6 years
Also an LE firearms instructor
Life happened and I needed to make money to support a new family - went into IT
Sound familiar?
20 years later finally made my dream come true
Got hired, went through the academy, finished #1 in my class and have been working the streets for 6 years
Also an LE firearms instructor
Thanks for the pointers, i'll have to look into one of those cranes. Where'd you find yours?
Trending Topics
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I've removed one in the JY once (pictures up here someplace) this was several years ago but, as I remember it, four bolts, all accessible from inside the cab. Two behind the back seat beneath some black, plastic boo-boo plugs, two up front on the floor pans beneath silver-colored aluminum (or some such) covers.
Of course, you still have the steering column, electrical, HVAC, front fenders, etc. to remove, first.
Of course, you still have the steering column, electrical, HVAC, front fenders, etc. to remove, first.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
I've removed one in the JY once (pictures up here someplace) this was several years ago but, as I remember it, four bolts, all accessible from inside the cab. Two behind the back seat beneath some black, plastic boo-boo plugs, two up front on the floor pans beneath silver-colored aluminum (or some such) covers.
Of course, you still have the steering column, electrical, HVAC, front fenders, etc. to remove, first.
Of course, you still have the steering column, electrical, HVAC, front fenders, etc. to remove, first.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
I've removed one in the JY once (pictures up here someplace) this was several years ago but, as I remember it, four bolts, all accessible from inside the cab. Two behind the back seat beneath some black, plastic boo-boo plugs, two up front on the floor pans beneath silver-colored aluminum (or some such) covers.
Of course, you still have the steering column, electrical, HVAC, front fenders, etc. to remove, first.
Of course, you still have the steering column, electrical, HVAC, front fenders, etc. to remove, first.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I dunno; I didn't need any of that but I'm in Colorado, we don't have the rust & corrosion problems that you guys have (I'm from the Chicago area originally).
I guess if it were me, I would first wire brush any threads I can see and follow up with some sort of penetrating fluid (50/50 acetone + ATF has got a great reputation) but I'd let it sit for only 24 hours max.
I forget the head size of the bolts but they're metric - 15mm or 17 mm or some such.
Looking at your picture (rear) I see the two black plastic boo boo plugs but what sticks out are the two exposed bolt heads kinda nearby to them, I honestly don't remember what they hold in place but. given their size, I'd imagine they're structurally integral and would need to be removed but you'll need to look underneath to verify that.
I guess if it were me, I would first wire brush any threads I can see and follow up with some sort of penetrating fluid (50/50 acetone + ATF has got a great reputation) but I'd let it sit for only 24 hours max.
I forget the head size of the bolts but they're metric - 15mm or 17 mm or some such.
Looking at your picture (rear) I see the two black plastic boo boo plugs but what sticks out are the two exposed bolt heads kinda nearby to them, I honestly don't remember what they hold in place but. given their size, I'd imagine they're structurally integral and would need to be removed but you'll need to look underneath to verify that.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: MN
I dunno; I didn't need any of that but I'm in Colorado, we don't have the rust & corrosion problems that you guys have (I'm from the Chicago area originally).
I guess if it were me, I would first wire brush any threads I can see and follow up with some sort of penetrating fluid (50/50 acetone + ATF has got a great reputation) but I'd let it sit for only 24 hours max.
I forget the head size of the bolts but they're metric - 15mm or 17 mm or some such.
Looking at your picture (rear) I see the two black plastic boo boo plugs but what sticks out are the two exposed bolt heads kinda nearby to them, I honestly don't remember what they hold in place but. given their size, I'd imagine they're structurally integral and would need to be removed but you'll need to look underneath to verify that.
I guess if it were me, I would first wire brush any threads I can see and follow up with some sort of penetrating fluid (50/50 acetone + ATF has got a great reputation) but I'd let it sit for only 24 hours max.
I forget the head size of the bolts but they're metric - 15mm or 17 mm or some such.
Looking at your picture (rear) I see the two black plastic boo boo plugs but what sticks out are the two exposed bolt heads kinda nearby to them, I honestly don't remember what they hold in place but. given their size, I'd imagine they're structurally integral and would need to be removed but you'll need to look underneath to verify that.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,394
Likes: 5
From: cincinnati ohio
there are only 4 bolts that hold it on. you do not have to remove the rubber plugs for the rear ones, they are indeed the two beefy bolts you see next to the rubber plugs.
then the 2 fronts are under those rusty covers on the floor pans you showed.
then you have the steering shaft, the trans linkage if auto, or the shifters if manual(not necesary but gives a little more room to play with. we didnt on the 84) there is a ground that goes from the cowl to the engine block, and then wiring harness,
here are some pics, we just always use the boom on our tow truck, open the doors of the cab we are moving, run a recovery sling for wrecks, through the cab, then shut the doors, and center the sling, hook the cable and up and away it goes. oh and notice the ratchet strap to firewallish area, back up to other cable, the cabs are firewall heavy like stated above, so choose a method good for you to stabilize the cab
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
The front under the cover ones may be a little rusty, mine were. Your rear bolts are like mine, right in the open. The left side may be a slight problem, these have nuts on the bottom and the left side is not very accessible with the front tank installed.
I took my front ones loose and jacked one front corner at a time up to remove the upper frame gusset bolts for the C6 after I installed the E4OD.
I took my front ones loose and jacked one front corner at a time up to remove the upper frame gusset bolts for the C6 after I installed the E4OD.