I find it funny with all the port vs. manifold arguing that this clearly says manifold and makes no mention of port.

Quote:

23. Check for full clockwise adjustment and connect the adjustable vacuum
advance unit to the manifold vacuum source. (FIG. 17)

 

That's the way it came from the factory.

Though I did retain the little plastic restriction at the temperature switch on the thermostat housing.
I don't have an automatic and the stalling issues that accompany it.

 

1st off, I would not worry too much with the vacuum advance at first. It's not that important. While I was tuning and setting idle speeds, mixtures and playing with the timing, I would leave it disconnected. You can actually run without it, and it will not hurt the engine at all. It's just for efficiency/fuel mileage. So I would not make it a show stopper, you can put this at the end of the list as far as things to do to get the engine tuned and running.

Secondly, there is something I did that seemed to work on the stock dist vacuum advance unit.



See the two screws poking through that mount the advance unit to the dist body? On my dist, the vacuum advance arm had a rectangle hole in it in this area. What I did was drill a hole through the dist casting between the two screws. I then took different sized nails and stuck through the hole I drilled. The nail went all the way through the rectangle hole in the arm, and when the advance pulled on the arm, the rectangle hole would bottom out on the nail. I used different sized nails to vary the amount of travel to the advance arm, which varied the amount of advance the unit would give.

It was a long time ago, I might have put two holes through that area, I can't remember. But it did work.

 

Yes technically you don't need it, you don't technically need any timing advance. But this is about getting this engine to idle strong and low with a big cam and low stall. To get that to happen he needs it to idle with the timing in the mid to high 20s. You can't just turn the dizzy and set it in the 20's it won't start. So the only/best way is to use the vacuum advance to advance at idle. This is best done with a plan and the right parts to begin with.

Interesting idea, IDK if enough change could be made this way, nor would it effect the amount of advance(stroke of the can). Add in that DSII dizzies tend to break there, I would be very careful about weakening it there.

 

We will have to agree to disagree. I talked a long time ago to a engine builder who built and raced engines and had a good reputation. I was also confused about the timing thing. He said take the vacuum advance out of the equation totally when setting up a engine. He said the vacuum advance was only for very light load conditions. He said most engines are in the high 30's for "total advance", this was initial plus centrifugal advance. He said with a light load on the engine, the engine could take up to 50 degrees or more of advance for fuel mileage and this was what the vacuum advance was for.

The vacuum advance works on engine vacuum. No way would I have it trying to control the timing advance at idle on a engine going lumpty-lumpty with the vacuum going crazy at idle.

 

I'm all good with agreeing to disagree just gunna toss in a couple points.

A race engine doesn't need a goo idle or tip in, he may know everything about race engines. Doesn't mean any of it applies to the OP.

Idle and tip in IS a "very light load condition"

 

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ha ha ha cheers

 

OK, so today I hit a lick on it with my buddy James. Here is what transpired today:

The change of the dizzy gear from cast to steel on the DSII. You guys may remember my post in the WHYDTYT thread about the Mallory gears I bought from Amazon. I ordered a gear that was not pre drilled. This gear had one hole in it. I cancelled that order and bought the one that was pre drilled. Amazon claimed it wasnt cancelled soon enough and sent both anyways.

FYI a dizzy gear on these units are not drilled center. They are offset. So there is a right and wrong way to install them. They can be put 180° out and the holes wont line up. Also the Mallory gear uses a .189" roll pin. The Motorcraft DSII dizzy uses a .125" roll pin. So having a bigger hole than the stock unit caused an issue to where it couldnt be up sized w/o elongating one of the holes on one side of the gear and that wasnt sitting right with me. So the gear that wasnt pre drilled and only had one larger hole turned out to be the one I needed to use. This let me center the hole on top of the smaller one as well as use the existing channel to guide the larger bits through. Turns out Amazon did me a huge favor by sending both of them.

Now while installing and removing and installing the gears a few times caused one the weights to come out of its place. Now I had to learn how to disassemble the dizzy to fix it. Turns out there is nothing to it. So I knocked that out.


We got the old ignition set up removed and the DSII installed. The oil pump drive shaft didnt want center up and go into the dizzy. A big shot of grease helped to hold the shaft in place finally.


The factory plugs on the wiring harness that connect to the module and dizzy are corroded pretty bad and need to be replaced. Does anybody know of a source that sells them?

The Bronco fired up and ran. It idled pretty decent as well. However, by the time we got to this point it was a little too late to be revving the motor and being noisy so we didnt get any serious tuning done, but it runs and idles for now.

There may be a valve out of adjustment too that needs to be addressed.

So maybe some tuning tomorrow.

 

I had this thread bookmarked because I like parts numbers.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...tributor-PlugsHere is the Motorcraft plug and pigtail catalog.
http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...torcatalog.pdf

Pico wiring has a lot of stuff.
http://www.picowiring.com/catalog.html

As does the repair connector store.
http://www.repairconnector.com/

Hope this helps...

 

'Painless' 30812 harness is $130-150 for four connectors and $2 worth of wire.
It doesn't even come wrapped...

(you can see the different locking nub orientation here)

 

I'm sorry, but I don't see more than $15 there.

To whoever is rich and dumb enough to buy that for that price. Would they like to buy the big house on 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue off me?

 

It DOES come with a ballast resistor that we don't need.

But you can see that they have the unobtainable plug wired right in and the other two are pigtails.

If you want that plug, they are the only game in town.
So they are entitled to ask whatever they want.

 

Jim - I'd rep you but ..... I can't. Thanks as I will need the connectors for Dad's truck since many of them are in poor shape.

 

So the 2 pin going to the module is unobtainable?