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It doesnt like to idle in gear. Thats its weakness.
If I change converters I am going to change to a 2800 like is recommended or it stays stock. I dont want to change it or buy it more than once. So I want to put some thought into the notion.
I am trying to get educated on TC's and kick this project around some.
I had that same problem with a 347 stroker with a performance cam. RPM drop when it went into gear was too big with a stock converter. The engine didn't idle well below 850 RPM. Change to a 2400 stall made a huge improvement. The higher stall also allowed the engine to rev a little higher when doing 25 MPH in the neighborhood. With the stock converter it would lug at 25-30 MPH.
For a daily driver, I don't think you want a stall speed higher than 500 RPM below cruise RPMs.
I had that same problem with a 347 stroker with a performance cam. RPM drop when it went into gear was too big with a stock converter. The engine didn't idle well below 850 RPM. Change to a 2400 stall made a huge improvement. The higher stall also allowed the engine to rev a little higher when doing 25 MPH in the neighborhood. With the stock converter it would lug at 25-30 MPH.
For a daily driver, I don't think you want a stall speed higher than 500 RPM below cruise RPMs.
Interesting advice - keep the stall speed at least 500 R's above cruise RPM. So, If you cruise at 2700 @ 65 with street tires, a C6, and 3.50's then you want the converter to be no higher than 2200. Right?
Interesting advice - keep the stall speed at least 500 R's above cruise RPM. So, If you cruise at 2700 @ 65 with street tires, a C6, and 3.50's then you want the converter to be no higher than 2200. Right?
I'm not an expert, just repeating some advice I got from someone who is a Ford trans expert. It sounded right to me that slippage would be tolerable there. But, its 500 RPM BELOW cruise RPM's like in your example. He also emphasized the necessity for a good trans cooler with a higher stall converter because of the additional slippage and heating.
OK Gary Lewis, Where can I find where how many rpm's my engine will be turning at cruise speeds with my tire size and gear ratios?
C6, 351 W, 31x10.50x15 and 3:50 rear ends.
This site says 2500 @ 65 MPH, assuming the tires are truly 31" in diameter. But you can check Tire Rack for your specific tires to get the actual size. However, that site doesn't take into account the torque converter slippage, which runs from 100 to 300 R's depending on the load, the terrain, tire size, gear ratio, etc. which is why I picked 200 RPM and suggested 2700 in my previous post. (I've driven a few C6's with 3.50 gears.).
IMO, a cam than should have a 2800 stall (non-locking) converter and gearing for 2500 RPM cruise sounds like a mis-match. A lower stall converter will give you problems idling in gear and higher stall will give you too much slippage when cruising. Think you'll have to change the cam or change the gearing to get good drivability. Just my 2 cents.
Dave what I am concerned about is real hard take offs that would be a con for driving in wet or snowy conditions.
I have a huge cooler. It's a condenser for the AC on one of these trucks. I just dont want it to be like driving a funny car around town.
Also it's a 351 W Dave.
You may have a problem(I think you already know that). When you hop the engine up a little too much, most people describe it as a "switch". You either have it all or none, like you are worried about. You have to rev it up to get the power, and it has lots of power, but it all seems to come in at once.
What sounds familiar is your comment about driving it in the snow. I worked with a guy who bought a early 70's 4x4 pickup. He bought it from a group of guys who raced something(I forget what) and they had stuck one of their race 390's in this truck, and he had bought it. He called me to work on it one day because it would not start, turned out to be the condensor was bad in the distributor(It had a dual point racing dist). We got it running, and that thing would make the hair stand up on the back of your neck, it sounded good. But he sold it after winter came and went, said he could not drive it in the snow, all it would do is spin. He could not control the rpms well enough, the engine was either "on" or "off", he could not ease the rpms up slow enough without it breaking loose.
Ignition timing, or actually the advance, can be part of the problem in those situations. I put really light springs in the dizzy on my original Super Bee and it basically couldn't be driven on snow. If you looked at the throttle the advance came in, the R's came up, and the tires spun. We had a small hump going into our driveway but you had to be going slowly to make the turn into the driveway. The Bee refused to go over the hump, and I tried it many times. But the little Valiant with the Slant Six went up and over w/o spinning a tire on the first try.
Actually, he said 28 total but didn't remember if that was right or not. It could, indeed, get interesting. He's running the World heads that shouldn't take as much lead, but 28 might be quite a bit with any static.
I dont want to swap cams due to the fact that I am tired of doing major reworks on this thing like pulling heads, intake manifolds, headers, steering columns, dizzy swaps, front covers and oil pans.
Then again I might buy another set of rims and put some low profile tires on it . Then take it out and hot rod the snot out of it!