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Hmm Bronco, ice traction, 2800 stall, one of these things doesn't belong.
I came over to see what everyone else was reading and if I may I'd like to strongly suggest taking a very very good look at the tune before doing anything drastic like putting a high stall converter in a Bronco. A lot can be done with timing, and I have an answer, but few agree, until they try it at least.
Hmm Bronco, ice traction, 2800 stall, one of these things doesn't belong.
I came over to see what everyone else was reading and if I may I'd like to strongly suggest taking a very very good look at the tune before doing anything drastic like putting a high stall converter in a Bronco. A lot can be done with timing, and I have an answer, but few agree, until they try it at least.
Yeah, I dont like the notion of it. Then again I dont want the motor fighting the converter either. Maybe I need to do a different curve before I stab the dizzy in.
My buddy had a short wide chevy that was geared lower and had 383 stroker motor in it. His stall was 3500 and that thing took off like dragster. His ratio was 3.42
:1 , but smaller tires. I know it's set up different , but I am comparing mine to a fraction of his in my mind with a 2200 stall and I dont like it.
Do you have this engine setup and running? Or have you had it setup and running with this cam already in it? The question I have is what rpm did you end up setting the idle speed at? That's usually a lot of the problem, having a torque convertor loose enough to let the engine idle at the higher rpm it needs to keep running with a really rough cam. Along with it is not much power brake boost from the very low vacuum at idle, and I have had to get in there and modify the carb power system to keep it from coming on during idle making it idle rich.
I don't know how rough this cam really is, but if it's really rough there is a lot of tuning to do.
I'm still having a hard time believing this engine won't work with that converter, and I have heard the engine run. In fact, I've rebuilt the carb and tuned the idle. So, I'm not ready to give up on it and recommend swapping the torque converter. Yet.
The dizzy that was in it was new, but a POS brand(procomp). It had whatever curve set from the factory and a mechanical advance only. Seemed like we had the idle set around 1000-1100 RPM. It didnt like to idle in gear. I am hoping this dizzy will change some of that and since I am going with the blue grommet module and ditching the MSD Street fire we can actually put it on the scope and see what it's doing instead of seeing all kinds of crazy lines jumping around everywhere.
Dave, the cam is in and has been running some. I ran into a few issues from this being my first engine to build and a somewhat high performance one at that. I thought the vacuum was pulling around 17-19 Hg at idle and the needle was very nervous on the vacuum gauge.
That's the same vacuum Rusty pulls at idle, and his is nervous as well. But he gets along fine w/the stock converter - although he doesn't have nearly the lift nor the long exhaust duration.
Why all this talk of the advance curve, the curve should have nothing to do with getting it to idle in gear at a reasonable RPM? Idling in gear at a reasonable RPM with a stock stall and big cam just takes tuning of the idle timing. Bigger cam = more timing, the trick is to get it to idle strong at a low enough RPM that the converter isn't dragging too much.
True. But the Procrap dizzy may have had such light springs that the advance was in some at idle. That and a large cam make for a poor and hard to tune idle. But, we don't know that as we don't know what that dizzy was doing. And the MSD ignition gave us so many strikes we couldn't understand what we were seeing. Maybe with the DS system we can figure it out.