Pete Im going to attempt to Break this down alittle for you I know what I want but I may not describe it the best so let us Know if I lose you

This is just kinda some general info for taking values all this you may not have to worry about right now but it may need to be considered in the Future depending whats going on and what is being checked.

Lets just break a Really simple one down!! Lets do Volts
SO when you check Volts at KOEO you are Looking at Battery Voltage!
But when you Start the Vehicle and Look at Volts you are now seeing Alternator Output. Make Sense??? Maybe you know that IDK

If the Truck has a Tunner it will need to be removed to check any sensor/valve Values

ANY Numbers you take for the KOEO Check Temps wont Matter no matter what gauge you look at

AS Far as HPO ones ICP, ICPV, IPR% you want to be at Normal operating temp for the Idle and 2500rpm Checks Because the thickness of the oil will change with Temps and OUR FORD SPEC Sheet is

Mainly anything that has to do with a Fluid will need to be checked at Normal Temp (Mostly Oil Gauges/Valves since the Viscosity changes so much with temp changes and the PCM Compensates for this to a Point)

If you are Trying to Trouble shoot a NO-Start Condition then you would Take any sensor values at KOEO and while Cranking Keeping in Mind that the SGII takes a few seconds to update its info so must make sure it updates during the crank before you take the Value. I always use RPM gauge cause its always changing alittle bit and when I see it change I know the SGII Has updated.

Also got to the Main SGII Menu and set the SGII Update Rate to FAST

Yes Look at the FICM Main Power running hard up a Hill^^^the FICM ones you can check NO Matter the Temp and No Need for Cold soak basically you will be Looking for 48 volts at ALL Times and any operating condition anything less then 45 volts is Bad

As far As temps go when you do any gauges at KOEO Temps wont Matter in Fact to check Your Temp Sensors you would let the truck sit for 12 hours and then Compare ALL Temp sensors to one another they need to be within 1-2*f Upon Startup you will check them within the first 10 seconds of Startup since some SGII don't like to be turned on and read the numbers right away

Your SGII is newer so you probably OK to turn it on before startup to check I think it was the older SGII with this Issue But either way it can be done

We kinda Group them Like you would compare ECT--EOT--TFT to one another since those are ALL Fluid sensors

And you would compare Ambeint Temp--IAT#1--IAT#2 those 3 should be within 1-2*f as well

after you drive with your gauges long enough you will get a GOOD Feel for it

Pete Click on this Link Below its a PDF for Ford Specs for sensors/valves

SENSOR OPERATING VALUES PDF
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1364848489
Click here^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

The idle PSI is reading high. Should be 16 psi or less. Were taken immediately after cold start or once the engine was warm?

Still have then catilytic convertor installed?

Josh

 

And its Always good to post what your sensor values are on FTE when trying to trouble shoot an Issue

When I have a Problem I Still Post all my Values here too. I figure the MORE EYES On the subject the Better IMHO!!! Everyone looks at it and might have a Different point of view so coming at it from ALL Angles less chance to miss something

 

I don't remember for sure if I took the reading after a cold start or once it was warmed up. The tube was clean but the sensor was slightly dirty. The sensor was cleaned. The Cat fell off when the exhaust was changed. It fell to a spot in the basement for safe keeping. The exhaust kit I chose has the option to add it back in if there is a need to.

 

In addition to what Josh is Looking at

I am wondering about the EBP In red at KOEO it pushing the spec limit

BUT What I am really wondering is why you list ebp 2 times at KOEO was it Varing that Much at KOEO??? It should be 1 SOLID Number at KOEO


I would expect it to vary a little while running BUT NOT at KOEO


Might be worth looking at again if its still acting up

Hows it running since you got it back from shop this last time???

P0069 BARO MAP/BARO Correlation Causes are Biased MAP or BARO sensor, circuitry

P0299 EP Turbo/Super Charger Underboost Causes are EP sensor, VGT control valve slow/lack of response

 

I listed it twice because the info I found on a forum had it listed twice. Once normal and the second was -.5psi. I thought figured there was a reason to have the second measurement. I guess I can delete that of the Scan Gauge. It was one solid number.

Since I got it back yesterday afternoon it was been running great. I took it out again this afternoon and played with it some more. I found a few hills around and drove it a little harder. It is back to normal again. Great power and no CEL lights. The tech did clean the EBP sensor. The tube was clean though. I didn't check the EBP number after I got it back.

 

OH I see what you did

Ok what that does is makes it so if your EBP Reading was a Hair OFF at KOEO compared to the other BARO & MAP Sensor Values at KOEO you can program the Other EBP Code into the SGII to get the EBP Value Closer to the others at KOEO

BUT To use the other Code for EBP you must First Determine the EBP Sensor is Reading Correctly and the SGII is reporting Off a Hair because of How it is Calculating its Values

The PCM Uses the Values from those sensors at KOEO to setup the Baseline so the PCM will take into consideration A High Pressure day VS a Lower Pressure Day and Calibrate Accordingly

SO the Extra SGII EBP Code is really just an Adjustment of how the SGII Reads that particular sensor

Make sense???

Yours Reads GOOD at KOEO so Get Rid of the One that has the 0.5 Biased Value its used for a Specific condition to Adjust you do NOT Have this Condition so get rid of the Biased SGII Gauge for EBP

Use this SGII EBP Code below
Exhaust Back Pressure
TXD: 07E0221445
RXF: 046285140645
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: EBP


There is Similair Codes for SGII for EOT and ECT if an Adjustment is needed but you always have to rule a Bad sensor out First before using that other Code.
Its Not Simple!!
A few things MUST be Taken into consideration before changing how the SGII Reports its Calculates its Values



That's Great sounds like its Fixed

Now you can figure out this Gauge and reading it so next time there is a Problem you will know what to be Looking at and use that info to Fix it or use it to Keep the SHOP in Check

 

James at linear logic did the adjusted EBP value for me. In some of my copy and pastes I didn't take it out so now it's on the interweb forever. It really isn't needed for anything.