It's 1/2 to a whole day's job. It's on the top back of the engine under a cover.

 

Peter the deal with what these guys are saying is the fact that since the 6.0L is Turbo Charged a turbo Uses Exhaust gas to Generate Boost, the exhaust gas spins the turbine

So that means Any problem with Boost can be from the Air Filter to the Exhaust Downpipe coming out the turbo and EVERYTHING in between has all got to work


Heres 1 senereo
So if you have Low ICP the injector don't fire the correct amount of fuel into the cylinder the result is Low EBP and the turbine wont spin fast enough cause the VGT isn't maybe moving the veins in exhaust to the right spot

Luckley the PCM does a Great job most the time at Pin pointing the system with a Problem most the time

If the PCM don't see the problem or the Sub system isn't quit far enough out of spec or maybe the case it will take multiple failure to trigger a DTC then we have to just start checking all system and comparing everything against spec the tests must be carried out exact to yield a Proper result

Now because of this^^^ you Must find a Good 6.0L Guy to work it Iv seen a lot of folks that use a Mechanics that are probably Decent at what they do but don't fully understand how this PCM thinks so they see a DTC and figure that must be the problem when in turn its Not the problem and the problem Lies in the system Before it

In this Case they usually always end up throwing Parts at it

So its More Complex then the Old normal of Air Fuel Spark/Compression in this case

 

I understand how the system works overall. I would have had no idea the EGR valve could cause a p0299 code until it was mentioned on here. I got to look smart when the EGR valve had actually failed when the tech said it wouldn't effect it. I also mentioned the ICP that was brought up here but I was told that wouldn't effect that either. I think he is starting to realize that the info I am finding is correct and he will start looking into my suggestions before calling Ford. I owe everyone who has provided info here a huge Thank You. I am still hopeful the EGR valve was the culprit this time.

So basically to check HPOP I need the ICP numbers right? Also if the MAP and EBP numbers are close (.5psi) like they were that should kind of help narrow the problem down correct?
The EGR valve was failing so that needed to be replaced regardless. He also cleaned the EBP sensor. I just got frustrated when I heard I may have replaced the turbo for no reason. At least it is all tax deductible I guess. I just spent another $420.00 today for an EGR valve, cleaning the EBP sensor, diagnostic time, and the installation of the EGR valve. I am very hopeful this solves the problem.

Thanks,
Darren

 

Well get the gauge then the guys can give you some things to check and specific ways to check it

Post the results and go from there

The EGR Valve is easy to change you could have done it we could walk you thru it even posted a Link to a Video or 2 on changing it and testing it

Plus you can use the gauge to check the general overall health of the truck the gauge will always pay for itself in the long run and usually with just 1 repair just from saving the cost of diagnostic

Or like checking the condition of the Oil Cooler Cheap when caught early $$500-1000.00 depending what else you address at the time But let it go you can have egr cooler failure all the way to Catastropic engine failure what will be anywhere from 6K-14K $$ depending on a few things

SO every guy that caught there OC Early with a Gauge a $$30.00-400.00 investment could have saved up to $$12K+

 

I have a Scan Gauge II. I posted EBP, MAP, and Baro the other day. I don't have everything programmed into it yet. So to check the HPOP I would check the ICP numbers or something else?

I probably could have done the EGR valve but it is winter in MN and I have no garage to work in. We have had the truck for 4 years and have very few issues with it. Hopefully the issue is now solved but if not I need to get it figured out before Spring as this truck is the main workhorse for our business.

 

Sorrey I thought you didn't have a Gauge I missed it


For HPO you need these

Inj. Control Press. (ICP / HPOP)
TXD: 07E0221446
RXF: 046205140646
RXD: 3010
MTH: 003900640000
NAM: ICP

KO=0 LI=625.5 HI=1400-1450 OR=0-4045


ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICV

KO=0.2 LI=1.0 HI=1.8 OR=.15-4.7 Volts


IPR Duty Cycle
TXD: 07E0221434
RXF: 046285140634
RXD: 3008
MTH: 0DCA03E8000A
NAM: IPR %

KO=14.84 LI=24 HI=40.60 OR=0-50 %


Take and Post the above 3 sensor values under these Operating conditions
KOEO
Idle
2500rpm

All in Park or Nuetral with A/C Off

heres some other good Gauges to also have and keep an eye on if you don't have them yet

ICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP

KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5

FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP

KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)

FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
TXD: 07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP

 

Darren, we're here to help you not to hurt you. I'm a carpenter with a good deal of driveway wrenching under my belt but had no diesel experience. With info and help from this forum I was able to successfully install my own STC fitting for a grand total of $75
some comforting info. From the time I was getting the codes until the repair was over a year. But post your #'s so we can get a look, these guys are the best!!!

 

Everyone here has been nothing but helpful. If I came off like a jackwagon I sure didn't mean to. Just trying figure out what was and hopefully not what is going with the truck. Ill see if I can get numbers tomorrow or the next day. I wasn't able to drive it long and hard enough today to see if the EGR valve fixed the problem.

Again if I came off as rude or ungrateful for the advice I do apologize. I really appreciate the information and the help.

 

On the contrary, you have been a perfect gentleman. Perhahap my post was misleading. I ment to imply nothing but a willingness to help.

 

No your good Bro

We just might be able to help you more then you might be thinking over the Net is all

with all the sensors and computer system info and Digital Live Data Gauges on these we can usually dig in pretty deep and not be Guessing either

 

Agreed. EVERYONE has been a perfect gentleman and the OP has been more than willing to provide asked for information IMHO. I hope it's just the EGR valve as well. Changing an HPOP outside in Mn. this time of year would be absolutely brutal.

 

It was close to 0 this morning. I let the truck warm up for 10 -15 minutes before I took the idle numbers. It was on high idle for a while so I tapped the brake to get the low idle numbers. I drove around and warmed it up before I took the other numbers. I will say it drove a lot better after having the EGR valve replaced.

KOEO

ICP 0
ICV .21
IPR 14.6

Idle

ICP 588
ICV .88
IPR 23.5

2500 RPM or Close to it. (maintaining 2500 rpm while trying to write the number proved interesting as when I would look down to write I would lose a few rpm. Apparently I cant multitask very well.)
ICP 1659-1700 Varied number for reason noted above...
ICV 1.91
IPR 40.6

 

Pete those Look Good so Far

I forgot to mention EOT should be at 185*f or higher for HPOP/System test but I think your will be OK

just double check next time you run it sorry Man My Bad

 

The only numbers that probably weren't at those temps would be the idle numbers. I should have checked them again when I got home again. Thanks for the help.

 

Good news!! Let us know how it does after you've had a chance to climb a hill or 2.