I have a 1991 F250 7.3 4x4 diesel. a while back my ball joints snap and in doing so broke my manual locking hub I replaced the ball joints and the hubs but again the rear of the new hub same side mind you blue out again is there any thoughts on what is causing this

 

Are they new or used hubs? Could you describe or show pictures of what exactly broke? Are they the stock hubs, or aftermarket?

 

I can have pictures when i am on lunch but they are new hubs mile marker is the brand of hugs I got I had I had waren hubs it is the back coupling and snap bring that broke on both sets on the passenger side

 

I know it's a silly question, but you aren't driving around with them engaged on pavement are you? That's a quick way to break hubs or bind up the gearbox. But yes pictures would be helpful.

 

Not silly at all but no I am not though when the ball joint snapped could it have tweaked a bearing and locked the hub? because the break looks like it was locked but I keep them unlocked at all times

 

It's definitely a possibility that it changed the clearances when it broke, does it feel like it pulls slightly to that side? You could take the hub off and inspect the bearing, it's really simple to do, however you are going to want to buy the special adapter tool to reset the preload on the tapered bearings. I think I paid $16 at Napa for it. If you need diagrams or directions on how to set the exact preload I can send those to you.

 

I have the adapter but I don't have the diagram so that would be awesome if you could send that to me

 

Hub cap screw torque: 35-53 Inch Pounds

1. Remove locking hubs

2. Remove lugs and wheel from rotor

3. For vehicles equipped with Dana model 44 with manual hubs, remove the adjusting nut with spanner locknut wrench. Apply inward pressure on the locknut wrench to disengage the adjusting nut loicking splines from the spindle.

For vehicles equipped with the Dana 44 with auto hubs, or Dana 50 and 60, remove the outer locknut, lockwasher, and inner locknut with spanner locknut wrench.

4. Remove the brake caliper and secure it to frame.

5. Remove the hub and disc assembly, the outer wheel bearing cone and roller assembly will slide out as the hub is removed

--At this point you will have access to the inner and outer bearings and races. Check for pitting, brinneling, bent, damage, that sort of thing.

Be sure you repack the bearings well, and don't overfill the locker with grease, as it may cause it to not disengage fully, and break during driving.

Install:

1. Install hub and rotor assembly onto spindle with bearings.

2. Install inner locknut on spindle and seat the bearings by tightening the locknut to 50 Ft Lbs. (I would suggest slowly rotating the hub to prevent bearing binding)

3. Back off the inner locknut and retighten to 31-39 Ft Lbs. (again, rotating hub)

4. Back off locknut 90 degrees.

5. Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the spindle groove. Tighten the inner locknut so the pin alignes with the nearest groove.

6. Install the outer locknut and tighten to 160-205 Ft Lbs

7. The wheel bearing end play should be .0000 - .0004 inch. The maximum turning torque of the hub is 20 inch pounds.

8. Reinstall locking hub assembly.

 

So I getting my bearings tomorrow but before I replace those is there any way to see if the spindle and rotor assembly are bad

 

so I am getting my bearings tomorrow but is there anyway I can see if the spindle and rotor assembly are bad before I replace those

 

and thank you so much for the specs on the pre load

 

Easiest way to see if the rotor assembly is bad is just spin it, and watch it. Does it look like it's warped or not spinning as easily as it should, or does it feel like it may be binding up a little in certain spots?

As for the spindle, keep an eye out for frosting, pitting, unusual wear, ect. Normal wear patterns will be very faint marks that go around the spindle where the bearings rest.