Front Leaf Spring Modification
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver, WA
Front Leaf Spring Modification
I have a question I'd like to pass onto anyone who has a solid front axle still under their '53-'56. So I'm installing a dropped I-beam, dropped by 'Nostalgia Sid'. I'm also having a set of leaf springs modified to move the axle's locating pin forward. My question is, Mid-Fifty claims that their spring moved the axle forward 1.25 inches. Is this going to be enough? I ask because with the 3" drop, any castor adjustment will now be exaggerated because of the extended amount of drop.
Because I'm having this done, i can set it at any measurement I want. Already dropped the springs off today, but having second thoughts on if I moved it far enough forward. Any thoughts, comments, experiences appreciated.
Because I'm having this done, i can set it at any measurement I want. Already dropped the springs off today, but having second thoughts on if I moved it far enough forward. Any thoughts, comments, experiences appreciated.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
I recently installed a Sid drop axle and have the "down and forward" springs from mid fifty. I haven't moved the truck yet (might settle some) and don't have an engine in it, so maybe not the best example...but so far the wheel looks centered in the opening to my eye!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
1.25-1.5" is the accepted amount required to visually center the wheels in the arch. Don't forget that the drag link needs to be extended the same amount when moving the axle, so it makes thing easier if you match everything to available parts to avoid custom fabrication. The spring flattening that comes with dropped springs reduces the already minimal axle tilt (caster) so caster shims should be added between the axle and springs to correct. Usually two sets of the ones MF sells will do the trick, orient them so the axle top tilts back more. The thickness of the added shims may also require the use of longer headed spring centerbolts (also available from MF) to fully seat but not bottom into the socket holes in the axle spring seat. This is important to keep the axle from shifting while driving. While you are ordering parts/have everything apart, replace the hollow tie rod with the HD version, once more from MF, and you will be ready to add power steering.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver, WA
YEah only bummer is I can go with the down and forward springs. I need the extra clearance to keep the axle from crashing into the the bottom of my 390.
Thanks for the pic Schuyles! Looks much better centered. How much drop did you go with?
Ax- Yep already have the HD Tie Rod, did that when i put in the Toyota PS conversion. I bought Mid-Fifty's Extended Drag link too, here in my hands now. Alignment shop's got the shims and I still have a couple 2* shims here. The spring shop mentioned something about taller pins for use with shims. Will double check them when i go to pick them up next week. The rest of the front end is all rebuilt/re-bushed, so hopefully we'll all be good to go.
Thanks for the replies. Going ahead with the 1.25 measurement as it will match MF's Extended Drag Link. Just trying to cross all the Ts and dot all the I's as well as a little assurance....
Thanks for the pic Schuyles! Looks much better centered. How much drop did you go with?
Ax- Yep already have the HD Tie Rod, did that when i put in the Toyota PS conversion. I bought Mid-Fifty's Extended Drag link too, here in my hands now. Alignment shop's got the shims and I still have a couple 2* shims here. The spring shop mentioned something about taller pins for use with shims. Will double check them when i go to pick them up next week. The rest of the front end is all rebuilt/re-bushed, so hopefully we'll all be good to go.
Thanks for the replies. Going ahead with the 1.25 measurement as it will match MF's Extended Drag Link. Just trying to cross all the Ts and dot all the I's as well as a little assurance....
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
Your truck is looking good as always.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver, WA
Well hopefully we'll know here in a week or two. I dont have the down springs, just stock and forward. (Being made as we speak) You'll get there.... baby steps!! Thanks too for the compliment... but trust me, its a 60 footer in person! Lol
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Vancouver, WA
Okay! Got my springs back today! Basically I took a pair of Henry originals that looked to be in good shape over to a local spring shop. Told him that I wanted to move the centering pin ahead 1.25". He said if the springs checked out ok, what he could do was make up a new main and wrapper springs and just move the remaining 6 leaves forward as long as they were in good shape. The old leaves checked out good (including the original wrapper and main leaves I didn't use, if anyone needs those...). So here's the modified set of stock springs, re-bushed all ready to rock-n-roll. Cost- $217 (with a little employer discount 
) for both. He could have built me two completely new springs for $175 each but he didn't see the point as he said these originals looked really good. Now to see how this all is gonna look/work.
The new springs with the old main and wrapper springs I didn't use.
) for both. He could have built me two completely new springs for $175 each but he didn't see the point as he said these originals looked really good. Now to see how this all is gonna look/work. 
The new springs with the old main and wrapper springs I didn't use.
Last edited by Dano78; Jan 30, 2014 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Can't seem to spell...
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Not to be a sour apple, but for the benefit of others contemplating a similar mod: Your spring guy should have been aware and explained that making your spring into a asymmetric configuration (rear longer) would change (soften) the spring rate and change the compliance. Shouldn't be noticable with all the leaves, but if every other leaf was removed as is commonly done it could result in bottoming or wrapping problems.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Vancouver, WA
Yeah we talked about that. He said he'd like to keep the leaves all centered and stair-stepped equally as per Henry's design. Essentially just moving the pin itself forward, and to do that meant building whole new springs. Since it was only a 1.25" move he felt that building new main and wrapper leaves and sliding the remaining 6 forward would be ok. As for starting to remove leaves and it's affects... hard to say... again, we're only talking 1.25" movement of the centering pin. He had copies of the original spring blueprints for both front and rear. And since the rear is asymmetrical, he showed me how the leaves are positioned in relation to the locating pin. But the rear is really asymmetrical by comparison to what I'm doing to the front.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2018
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From: Allentown, PA
Front suspension
Have a question on the FRONT suspension with the drop axle and all the parts to complete it ready for the road and complete COST VS using a Mustang II set-up easy install which is proven and safe and a super handling ride ? ? -- Thanks
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