Hope everyone had a good year, I have decided to stay with the straight axle on my 53, with mono springs, my question is that I want to move the axle forward 1 in. Is this posible with the mono spring setup? Any ideas?

 

I would check with a spring shop and see if the center bolt can be safely moved forward.

 

I don't know about the monoleafs, I would never use them myself, but Mid Fifty sells main leafs and/or spring sets with the center bolt moved 1-1/2" forward. They also sell a matching lengthened draglink.
You will also likely need a couple pairs of axle alignment wedges and longer headed centerbolts to use with the wedges so you can bring the axle into proper alignment after moving it forwards.

 

I've never done it on a PU, but on some heavy trucks when changing to heavier front springs we had to redrill the locating hole in the axle. What would it hurt to move the locating hole 1" rearward? I don't know how much room there is to play with as my truck was missing it's straight front axle when I got it.

 

I don't think the pad is long enough and you'd put the centerbolt behind the u-bolts, not a good idea. In any case how ever you move the axle, you'll need to lengthen the drag link the same amount.

 

Thanks for the feedback, the reason I was leaning toward the mono leaf is that the semi (volvo) has just the one mono leaf on it, it really rides nice. No I don't think there is enough room to redrill the axle. I will check out Mid Fiftys set up. I do want to drop it a couple of in. I was thinking of moving the springhangers forward. Thanks axracer I never give it much thought about the drag link.

 

If you want to drop it as well, get the reversed eye leaf springs. The two versions of monoleafs for our trucks I've seen both have issues IMHO. The even thickness ones are a straight rate spring, i.e. they are as stiff in the first inch of deflection as they are in the last inch before the stops, therefore they are either too stiff in every day driving or too soft and bottom on heavy bumps or loads. The stepped ones in theory are progressive, but in practice most all the deflection takes place in the thinnest section, overworking that section and when a monoleaf breaks, you're in serious trouble! Multileaf springs are true progressive in nature, i.e. they get stiffer as the deflection increases, and can be "tuned" by adjusting the number, thickness and length of the leaves in the stack. With the right tuning, including adding friction reducing strips between the leaves and matching the shocks to the spring rate, a stock type spring stack can give amazingly good ride.
PS: Posie's has just released springs for the F100's. Their springs are THE BEST IMHO.

 

I called midfifty today and they have the kit to do all I want to achieve, move forward and lower. Soon as I get the cat. I will know more. You guys were talking about installing the explorer rear end with either the explorer or bronco springs, sounds ok but how would you go about getting the rear level with the front?

 

Shadowwalker,
I quess I was just lucky my rear fender is 1" higher than the front from the tires. I have the original straight axel and leaf springs I just brought the main leaf from Fid-Fifty.
Jaye

 

While you're shopping the MF catalog, just add their reversed eye rear springs to the order to bring the rear in line with the front and to give the rear an equally good ride.