Remove Cladding? Opinions Please..
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: North Florida
How hard is it to remove the cladding?
My passenger side is damaged on the rear and I'm guessing that fixing up just the metal and ditching the cladding would be a cheaper option. Besides, the chrome piece would go away which definitely goes with my all - black theme
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using IB AutoGroup
My passenger side is damaged on the rear and I'm guessing that fixing up just the metal and ditching the cladding would be a cheaper option. Besides, the chrome piece would go away which definitely goes with my all - black theme
Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 using IB AutoGroup
I wanted to keep my cladding to sell it as it is all in great shape (couple of nicks here and there) so I took it off without grabbing one end and ripping it off which can leave you with a bent, banana-looking piece.
I got a plastic spatula-looking thing and sharpened the blade of it carefully so it was fairly sharp. Then slowly worked it down the edges of the cladding and pried it off a little at a time.
This gave me great looking pieces to sell, but also left adhesive lines from hell! I had to use a 3M Adhesive Removal Wheel with my drill.... McGuire's Ultimate Rubbing Compound and whole LOT of elbow grease to get it all off and perfect looking. I probably spent more time than most doing it (about 7 hours of total time between two afternoons), but those trim pieces, especially the ones over the fenders, are going for high dollar now...
Example, on craigslist in NC there is a guy selling all 8 pieces off of his limited for $750.00. The dealers that can still GET the pieces new are asking $250.00 for the door pieces each and over $300 in some cases for the fender pieces each.
I love the look of mine without the cladding. Good luck!
James
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 540
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From: North Florida
Had used fishing line in the past. I tried it first... 10 lb test snapped quickly... went to 30 lb test and it worked OK, but left marks in the paint. Long "up and down" lines from the cutting motion. That's when I had to go to the other plastic tool.
James
James
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 441
Likes: 5
I have a question about rust. My Ex has no rust on it now, and I am moving to Grand Rapids, MI in 6 months, where they use salt on the roads. Would taking off the cladding now help prevent salty water from getting between the steel and plastic helping to prevent it from rusting, or is it already sealed up really well?
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: North Florida
I have a question about rust. My Ex has no rust on it now, and I am moving to Grand Rapids, MI in 6 months, where they use salt on the roads. Would taking off the cladding now help prevent salty water from getting between the steel and plastic helping to prevent it from rusting, or is it already sealed up really well?
It is up to you obviously, I'm sure that some who have lived in the northern climates for a long time will chime in with real world data.
James
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 441
Likes: 5
It is not sealed up well at all in my opinion. I found lots of sand and dirt up under them that had been rubbing on the paint... it took some rubbing compound to buff the slight damage away. I can only imagine what could possibly happen with enough salt and chemical they put down on the roads caught up under the cladding over time.
It is up to you obviously, I'm sure that some who have lived in the northern climates for a long time will chime in with real world data.
James
It is up to you obviously, I'm sure that some who have lived in the northern climates for a long time will chime in with real world data.
James
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: North Florida
Good to know. One thing that I know from living in the Mid-West for 22 years before living in Colorado for the last 10 is I HATE rust. I would like the sheetmetal to last as long at I hope my 7.3L will. I hate to ask this, but is there a picture write-up for removing? A link would be awesome!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...road-gunk.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...armor-off.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-reading.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-removed.html
James
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 441
Likes: 5
None that I could find with write-up, but it is pretty easy. Here are some links with some good reading about it for you though:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...road-gunk.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...armor-off.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-reading.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-removed.html
James
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...road-gunk.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...armor-off.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-reading.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-removed.html
James
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 29,909
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
I have a question about rust. My Ex has no rust on it now, and I am moving to Grand Rapids, MI in 6 months, where they use salt on the roads. Would taking off the cladding now help prevent salty water from getting between the steel and plastic helping to prevent it from rusting, or is it already sealed up really well?
You will need the rear XLT stone guards as well to fill the holes.
Here is what mine looked like after pulling the cladding. Everything else was good though.
After cladding removed w/ line-x stone guard.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 441
Likes: 5
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 540
Likes: 0
From: North Florida
Don't forget that there are a couple of small bolts and some of those plastic "keepers" along the inner fender well and under the back 1/4 panel you need to remove. I removed mine carefully enough that I re-used them all. Some folks have broken them and had to go buy a couple more of them... but no big deal...
James
James
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 0
From: Shelbyville, Indiana
Hey Everyone,
Okay, so I thought I had my mind made up about removing the cladding from my limited Ex. It keeps unsticking itself in a few places and I am tired of re-sticking it with 3M tape.
I am hesitant now because all of the rest of it is still stuck on REALLY well...
It is the limited, so it is the same color as the body. No contrast... just plastic sticking out farther than the body. If I take it all off, then the only difference will be that the lines are more "sleek" looking...
I guess my BIG question to you all is, will the "Pueblo Gold" color look good without the cladding hanging off the sides? Has anyone done this and then regretted it? Or will I take it off and say "Wow... that looks better!"??
I KNOW I am asking for subjective feedback, but I'm kinda back on the fence with this decision. I KNOW I should just man-up and make a decision, but this one has me locked up and I don't know why. I've already got the XLT Stone Guards for the back 1/4 panel if I do this.
Thank you for any thoughts on the matter!
James
Okay, so I thought I had my mind made up about removing the cladding from my limited Ex. It keeps unsticking itself in a few places and I am tired of re-sticking it with 3M tape.
I am hesitant now because all of the rest of it is still stuck on REALLY well...
It is the limited, so it is the same color as the body. No contrast... just plastic sticking out farther than the body. If I take it all off, then the only difference will be that the lines are more "sleek" looking...
I guess my BIG question to you all is, will the "Pueblo Gold" color look good without the cladding hanging off the sides? Has anyone done this and then regretted it? Or will I take it off and say "Wow... that looks better!"??
I KNOW I am asking for subjective feedback, but I'm kinda back on the fence with this decision. I KNOW I should just man-up and make a decision, but this one has me locked up and I don't know why. I've already got the XLT Stone Guards for the back 1/4 panel if I do this.
Thank you for any thoughts on the matter!
James