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For many years I ran a DP flashed pcm. 60Hp tow. Always started well in the winter. Then recently as the miles piled up, I'd get the romps. Switched to T6...truck doesn't care for it. I have 10w-30 Rotella in right now.
Then I migrated to the F6...have a stock program at 01 position, various DP tunes further up the dial.
On our first cold snap a month or so ago, I'd start in one of the DP tunes, get the romps. The next day similar temps and cold soak I tried, note tried to start in stock.....no dice. In fact to get it started I switched to a DP tune.
Now I'm trying a Hydra....and -8 the other day and dang it....no go, until I hook up a booster/charger and multiple GP cycles.
I checked the voltage before after the GP relay, within 1/2 volt. Batteries aren't exactly new, but far from old. I think last year from NAPA.
A little side note. I didn't normally need to have the tow program for the winter...when I had the flashed pcm, so I'd swap back to the stock unit. (unflashed)....part of the reason was, I just didn't like how the engine sounded on a zero degree start with the DP tune.
Diagnosing with tuner installed can often be a waste of time as the tuner masks the issue.
Tuners primarily increase injector pulse with thereby delivering a predetermined amount of fuel based on TPS and Crank Sensor rotation signal. Many as well have flashed shift points and lock-up programming flashed as well.
Let us know what happens with just the PCM directing the Engine
Diagnosing with tuner installed can often be a waste of time as the tuner masks the issue.
Tuners primarily increase injector pulse with thereby delivering a predetermined amount of fuel based on TPS and Crank Sensor rotation signal. Many as well have flashed shift points and lock-up programming flashed as well.
Let us know what happens with just the PCM directing the Engine
Isn't the "00" setting on the Hydra a bypass to pcm calibration?
edit...that might be the DP.....I have stock programmed at position 1 on the Hydra.
After checking the items posted above, ohm your good plugs. You can do this easily from the UVC harness connector on the inside of the valve covers. I'll post the link to Woodnrhing's web site which shows the readings you are looking for.
After checking the items posted above, ohm your good plugs. You can do this easily from the UVC harness connector on the inside of the valve covers. I'll post the link to Woodnrhing's web site which shows the readings you are looking for.
Not saying they are good, but the GP's were replaced at 160k miles (about 35k miles ago) when I replaced the injector o-rings.
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