There are videos and threads on the lower ball joint replacement and I understand the whole process, but the one question I have is what size receiver tube do you need to press out the lower ball joint from the control arm? The ball joint press kit I borrowed from a friend has three tubes: 1.75 ID X 2.00 OD, 2.25 ID X 2.50 OD and 2.75 ID X 3.00 OD. I think it's from Harbor Freight.

I had it all apart this weekend while I was replacing the front wheel bearing/hub assembly and it seemed to me that the largest receiver tube didn't fit properly on the control arm. I think I need a receiver tube that is a little over 2.50 ID to fit over the flange on the ball joint but I didn't get a good measurement of what the max OD is that will fit between the ball joint flange and the edge of the control arm. I was running short on time and had to move on to the bearing on the other side. There's not much room between the edge of the ball joint flange and the outer edge of the control arm (where the horizontal surface turns downward).

If you were able to press out your lower ball joints, what size receiver tube did you use or what ball joint press kit did you use? I've seen some adapter kits from OTC, Astro Pneumatic and the like with a 2.625 ID X 2.875 OD receiver tube but I don't want to spring for it unless I know it will work.

Thanks in advance.

 

I'm not able to tell you the size needed, but before buying an OTC or other kit, you might want to consider seeing what your local auto parts store has in their Loan-A-Tool program. They may have what you need and it won't cost you a penny to use, as long as you return it on time (often you have 90 days to return it before they charge your credit/debit card).

-Rod

 

Thanks. According to Moog, I need T40003 : http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pd...695T006_En.pdf

But, those things sell for $80 and up. Dang specialty tools. I may have to cut up an adapter and make my own. I haven't seen anything like that in the kits online.

 

I did find a better image of the Astro Pneumatic master kit and it appears to have an adapter similar to the Moog adapter. Now, if the parts stores have a "master adapter" kit that I can borrow, I'll be set. At least now I know what to look for in the tool kit.

 

Do you have a Harbor Freight nearby? Looks pretty similar to this.

-Rod

 

Yes. Thanks, I do have a Harbor Freight nearby. I had my eye on that set and I think I'll check it out tomorrow. I stopped at three parts stores in my area who had loaner tools - Autozone, O'Reilly's and Napa. None of them had the Ford adapter.

This is turning into quite the learning experience and I guess this is the price of tuition. If I knew I'd be in for another $70 in tools, I would have more seriously considered replacing the entire control arm. The videos online made the job look so easy with typical tools. I don't know how much more labor replacing control arms would be compared to just the ball joints, but price-wise it's about $100 or a little more. However, if the control arms require special tools then I'd have to take that into consideration. Anyway, labor alone for just the ball joints is $264 so I just have to keep telling myself I'm still money ahead.

 

I bought the generic ball joint press "kit" like you borrow from Auto Zone. Mine cost like $40. on e-bay.. Your right, the generic kit does not contain every adaptor you need for every car. I measured the ID of what i needed and cut an extra sleeve of 2 or 2-1/2 ich pipe about 2 inches long. That pilots onto the end plate they have in the kit. You dont need the big window cut into the side of the tool. 100% round will work fine... Also, the adaptor sleeves do not set 100% on every A-frame as you said. Some set 75% of the way around the ball joint. The curve in the frame does not allow the sleeve to set on that side. A good fitting sleeve (adaptor) setting with 75% contact should work........ other thing is to remove the old snap ring from the ball joint, and wire brush the area real good to get off the rust so it will push easier thru the A- arm.

 

I bought a kit like this below. Has the C frame, screw, two end plates and 3-4 different tubes. I just made a couple more tubes to fit specific ball joints for other cars.

 

The battle is over but not without some casualties. As much as I hated to, I bought the master adapter kit from Harbor Freight. 14 Piece Master Ball Joint Adapter Set

The adapter in the upper right corner of the set is the one that looks like the Moog T40003 and it fit just right over the ball joint flange. However, on the fist ball joint I tried to remove, the adapter buckled when I had the ball joint about half way out. I wonder if HF will take that back and exchange for a good one. Anyway, at that point, I just tapped out the ball joint. When putting the ball joint back in, I was just able to use the middle adapter (about 2.5 inch OD) that came in the basic ball joint press kit. If fit just right on the ball joint flange. I did use one of the cups (shown in the lower left of the case) that came in the master adapter kit.

For the other side, I used the adapter in the upper left corner, which I think is supposed to be for a Chevy (boo!) but it fit, so I really can't complain. This time, once I had some load on the ball joint press and before the ball joint moved in the bore, I tapped on the control arm with a hammer (perpendicular to the ball joint) and the ball joint moved a bit. I loaded up the press some more and tapped again. Repeated until the ball joint came out. No buckled adapter this time. The replacement went in without any issues.

I was unpleasantly surprised how worn the old ball joints were after 157K miles. I also discovered that my upper ball joints are borderline and should be replaced. My 91 Ranger didn't need any ball joints during the 21 years and 170K miles that I owned it. It also didn't need any front wheel bearings. I guess they don't make them like they used to. At least I've got the Explorer to a point where I feel that it's OK to drive now.

This job is booked at 2.4 hours, or about $264 before tax and not including parts where I live. Total would have been at least $325. Since I was able to borrow the press, I was able to get the job done for just under $250 less than having someone else do it. Spending the $77 on the master adapter kit was worth it even if one of the adapters is worthless now.