Block Heater Shock - non-typical
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Near DC
Block Heater Shock - non-typical
Yep, I saw all the other posts about checking the cord and stuff.
I didn't realize I had an issue until today.
I was at the accelerator pedal checking to see if I could clean the potentiometer due to dead spots.
I grabbed the brake pedal and got lit up.
It wasn't the full 120 volt blast but more than enough to cause discomfort.
I (like a dummy) checked around and it hits me when touching anything metal on the truck, including the body.
I checked the cord and it is in great shape, continuity is fine.
I have the marine-grade plug in the bumper, so having that doesn't stop shocks.
I checked the "male" end on the bumper between the spades and the ground, no continuity, zero.
Just for grins, I checked at the two spades and saw .014 on the meter.
Reason I post is because I read 0.000 when going between the ground and spades.
Thoughts?
Does make for a nice theft deterrent though,
I didn't realize I had an issue until today.
I was at the accelerator pedal checking to see if I could clean the potentiometer due to dead spots.
I grabbed the brake pedal and got lit up.
It wasn't the full 120 volt blast but more than enough to cause discomfort.
I (like a dummy) checked around and it hits me when touching anything metal on the truck, including the body.
I checked the cord and it is in great shape, continuity is fine.
I have the marine-grade plug in the bumper, so having that doesn't stop shocks.
I checked the "male" end on the bumper between the spades and the ground, no continuity, zero.
Just for grins, I checked at the two spades and saw .014 on the meter.
Reason I post is because I read 0.000 when going between the ground and spades.
Thoughts?
Does make for a nice theft deterrent though,
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 2
From: Bend Oregon
Sounds like the cord or heater element is shorted to the truck . It should be throwing the circuit breaker in the panel so I am guessing you have an ungrounded outlet or a bad ground in the extension cord as well. So do you have an outlet tester ?
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Posting Guru
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From: Near DC
Yeah, with my bare hand. 
I'll put the meter on the frame tomorrow, too lazy after dinner now...
I'll put the meter on the frame tomorrow, too lazy after dinner now...
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Near DC
I ran the outlet and made up the cord myself, so it was in good shape.
I'll check all of it tomorrow.
Nope, not flipping the breaker.
It isn't a full 120v zap, feels like maybe 50v. I'll see if I can stick the meter ends in my ears and get a reading.
Hmmm, I just noticed my Supported banner gone, guess FTE stopped taking it out automatically...
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,833
Likes: 4
From: Jefferson, Iowa
2 things are wrong. Missing ground, either in the branch circuit wiring, outlet, cord or truck and something is shorted to ground. a regular VOM meter will not always show high resistant faults. I bet if you installed a GFCI outlet (which code wise probably should be) it would trip the second you plug in your truck showing a ground fault condition. Check the Bare equipment ground with a load at the end of your extension cord. Make a male plug with a light pigtail hooked to it and wire it hot to ground. If it lights up your ground is fine, if it doesn't find your ground (bare) bad connection and you should be good to go.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
Yep, I saw all the other posts about checking the cord and stuff.
I didn't realize I had an issue until today.
I was at the accelerator pedal checking to see if I could clean the potentiometer due to dead spots.
I grabbed the brake pedal and got lit up.
It wasn't the full 120 volt blast but more than enough to cause discomfort.
I (like a dummy) checked around and it hits me when touching anything metal on the truck, including the body.
I checked the cord and it is in great shape, continuity is fine.
I have the marine-grade plug in the bumper, so having that doesn't stop shocks.
I checked the "male" end on the bumper between the spades and the ground, no continuity, zero.
Just for grins, I checked at the two spades and saw .014 on the meter.
Reason I post is because I read 0.000 when going between the ground and spades.
Thoughts?
Does make for a nice theft deterrent though,
I didn't realize I had an issue until today.
I was at the accelerator pedal checking to see if I could clean the potentiometer due to dead spots.
I grabbed the brake pedal and got lit up.
It wasn't the full 120 volt blast but more than enough to cause discomfort.
I (like a dummy) checked around and it hits me when touching anything metal on the truck, including the body.
I checked the cord and it is in great shape, continuity is fine.
I have the marine-grade plug in the bumper, so having that doesn't stop shocks.
I checked the "male" end on the bumper between the spades and the ground, no continuity, zero.
Just for grins, I checked at the two spades and saw .014 on the meter.
Reason I post is because I read 0.000 when going between the ground and spades.
Thoughts?
Does make for a nice theft deterrent though,
Less than 120 volts (nominal) indicates you are in series with the load, which would indicate a couple of unlikely problems with the return path, or maybe the element is shorted to the case, which will only trip a breaker if the truck and heater are grounded back to the power source, and the power source is grounded back to the panel. My guess is that it is 120 volts but you were not grounded that well so you didn't have much amperage pass thru you so it felt like less.
Is the block heater doing it's job? Take a resistance reading between the two blades of the power inlet and post the results (in ohms).
As stated, that is why GFCIs are required. It takes less than 10 miliamps to put you in cardiac arrest.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Near DC
Success (I hope).
Pulled everything apart and tested.
The heater is pulling .13
Heater to frame grounded, nothing on the spades/frame.
Extension cord tested good.
Commercially made heavy duty timer plugged into house had a disconnected ground that was lightly touching the hot.
I'm guessing that was it.
But I'm surprised a breaker didn't pop, maybe it wasn't enough contact?
And nope, no GFI here, installed before the requirements.
But I will be installing GFI all around the outside of the house now...
Hopefully it's fixed, thanks guys.
Pulled everything apart and tested.
The heater is pulling .13
Heater to frame grounded, nothing on the spades/frame.
Extension cord tested good.
Commercially made heavy duty timer plugged into house had a disconnected ground that was lightly touching the hot.
I'm guessing that was it.
But I'm surprised a breaker didn't pop, maybe it wasn't enough contact?
And nope, no GFI here, installed before the requirements.
But I will be installing GFI all around the outside of the house now...
Hopefully it's fixed, thanks guys.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Near DC
Thanks Steve, as long as I'm there I'll just get the real deal.
Not a big deal to swap 'em out.
I'll probably go ahead and get the "updated" outdoor thingeys with the big plastic cover too, the ones that have the hinge on top and plugs come up from the bottom so all stays dry.
Not a big deal to swap 'em out.
I'll probably go ahead and get the "updated" outdoor thingeys with the big plastic cover too, the ones that have the hinge on top and plugs come up from the bottom so all stays dry.
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