New studs arrived, now sealed and torqued to 55 lb/ft. One nice thing about an inline vs. a V8 is rather than the cam being tucked up in the middle of the block it's offset from the crank so you can reapply assembly lube to the lobes after you've set valve lash. A little extra insurance.

The low tension rings really seem to make a difference. The engine still turns pretty easily even with the valve lash set.

Gotta pick up an oil pump gasket tomorrow then can finally start closing everything up. Yippee.

 

Your springs, you took them off a 351 and used them right? So how disunity know where to put them for height and correct strength?

 

The shop measured the retainer height then checked the spring pressure at that height.

 

hows it coming along? havent heard anything in a few weeks.

 

Got it all put together, now just trying to figure out when I'll have some breathing room to take a day off and haul it up to Denton for break-in and tuning.

Couple of small things I'm puzzling over. The timing mark on the shiny new balancer is off in relation to both the old school marks on the timing cover and the bolt-on mark currently on the truck. Confirmed #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke twice so I reckon that means marking and filing a new mark on the balancer before she goes in the truck.

And coming from an earlier model, mid sump oil pan truck the dip stick is in front of the distributor rather than behind the oil filter like the '86 vintage in the truck now. Not sure how I'm gonna handle that...

 

"And coming from an earlier model, mid sump oil pan truck the dip stick is in front of the distributor rather than behind the oil filter like the '86 vintage in the truck now. Not sure how I'm gonna handle that..."

Not sure what your concerns are on this ? What exactly are you shooting for? It seems I read earlier in your thread you were going with a rear sump pan .. Nice thread BTW Lots of good info

 

With the rear sump pan I don't think a dipstick in front of the dizzy would touch oil even when it's full.

 

Right .. The rear sump pans I have are the riveted grommet style (pre 77) where the dipstick tube slides in to the side of the pan and the dipstick tube mounting tab bolts up to the block behind the distributor , I believe..

edit : I just looked @ my 78 F250 and it also has the grommet style pan so I'm not sure what year the change was at this point

 

I fought this issue with my '84. I'm guessing someone put a replacement engine in it at some point as the dipstick is in front of the distributor toward the radiator. The dipstick was completely useless as it would just hit the oil pan and never touch oil.

I finally fixed it by pulling the pan and replacing it with a new one from an 80 - 82 style that has the dipstick going into the oilpan. Dorman makes one. 264-024

This solved my issue, since it was much easier than swapping out the block.

 

Interesting. I used a block that had the rear sump pan with dip stick through the pan. I knocked out the factory installed plug in front of the dizzy, inserted my old dip stick tube there, and changed to my middle sump pan. Iirc, it was a 77 van the latter engine came out of.

 

Ja, forgot about the in pan option. I'll either have a dipstick tube welded into the pan or I may have a 351W pan with a bolt-in tube boss in the shed.

 

Ha! Would you give that Dorman pan five stars? Hopefully I didn't toss the receipt for the one I bought from Summit that doesn't have the dipstick provision so I can send it back. Think I did toss the box though.

 

I'd give it 4.5. The two side holes on the curved part up front weren't spaced out far enough so I had to widen them with a drill, but other than that, it's top notch!

 

This may be an option for you on the oil pan Ford 300 motor

This guy probably going to need the emissions stuff off that motor https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14360392

Since the guy is only asking $100 for the motor maybe he would be willing to part it if the total were above his asking price Just a thought

Maybe get one of the guys from the Idaho chapter involved and they end up with the long block minus the oil pan, pick up tube, pick up tube mounting stud, dip stick tube, and dip stick

 

Thanks for the heads-up but I've already ordered an oil pan with the dipstick tube.