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  #61  
Old 03-18-2014, 06:05 AM
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what are you going to do about your motor? how is that possible?

you can calculate the overlap from adding duration, then dividing my four, subtracting the lsa, and then mulitplying by two.
i get the same numbers like that as i do on my dd.
 
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  #62  
Old 03-18-2014, 04:27 PM
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I'm going to take it back to the shop on Saturday and discuss with them. The only thing I can figure is the mfg has the wrong specs for the compression height of the pistons.
 
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  #63  
Old 03-18-2014, 07:25 PM
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So I just noticed something, is my has a recommended cr on all their cams. And most are 9.5 crowed has a few and for your setup they recommend a 10. Do you think you will have issues? Or if I do the Howard cam, a 263 with a just under 9, would I have issues?
 
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:53 PM
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What kind of issues?
 
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  #65  
Old 03-18-2014, 08:01 PM
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What ever kind occurs when there isn't a proper cr for a cam.
I don't know what would that be?
 
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  #66  
Old 03-19-2014, 04:19 PM
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At 9.55:1 I'm more worried about the engine pinging than any loss of low end. If I was smart I'd probably just keep the engine as is (~9:1), but since the engine won't be rebuilt again I'm throwing caution to the wind.

Until you get around 280 duration on the intake side >every< hydraulic cam for a 300 closes the intake earlier than the stock cam.

For a 300 in which using regular unleaded is any kind of a factor a CR ~9:1 should be reasonably safe. Maybe less with a short cam in a vehicle used to tow.
 
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:44 AM
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Head shots:









Tough to get a shot of the ports in low light even with a flash. The springs tested out at ~110 lbs, so should be just about right with bigger, heavier valves.

Apparently there was some misunderstanding on the block. He remembers we spoke about zero deck but thought I decided against it. No worries, it's back at the shop and they're going to take it apart and deck it.

Finally got the new clutch set from Amazon. They must have made it fresh. Decided on a new oil pan (or jy pan) too. The one that was on the core is mid-sump and the Bronco needs a real sump pan. Since I'm going to break it in on a dyno might as well set it up so I don't have to fool with the oil pan later. Need to get on oil pump and pickup too.
 
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  #68  
Old 03-23-2014, 08:32 AM
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Man that is pretty!
 
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  #69  
Old 04-04-2014, 06:03 AM
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Any new word?
 
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:10 PM
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Supposed to pick the short block up tomorrow, newly milled to put the pistons at deck height.
 
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  #71  
Old 04-05-2014, 10:17 PM
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Sweet hope all is well.
I just found a deal on cl.built 300 with a zf5, so I might be having a spare motor and divorced case if he still has it.
 
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  #72  
Old 04-06-2014, 11:52 AM
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Next week. Machinist had a family matter come up. Good thing I'm not in a hurry. At least I will have collected all my parts by then.
 
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  #73  
Old 04-14-2014, 07:38 PM
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Got the short block and everything looks good. Need to stop by a parts house and get the dadgum dowels to center the head on the block then can start throwing it all together.

Also need to decide on what shade of black to paint the engine. I'm thinking black black.
 
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  #74  
Old 04-19-2014, 05:29 PM
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Sacre bleu, none of the parts house nearby have the dowel pins. Back to headbolts.com for a pair...
 
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  #75  
Old 04-27-2014, 03:12 PM
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So here's the short block zero decked and now with the head dowel pins.



Rolled her over to swap the #5 main cap bolt for one with the oil pickup stud and slather assembly lube on the cam lobes. Connecting rod #5 must have been the lightest one on the crank end since it's the only one that hasn't been sanded down.



Got the head in place and torqued to spec. Threw on all the valvetrain parts and went to adjust the rockers and the lifter is bottoming out before the adjusting nut is into the crimping. Apparently SBC studs aren't going to work after machining down the pedestals. They'd probably be fine with guideplates but we don't need no stinkin' guideplates with a 240 head.

So another week before I can get everything buttoned up. Oy gevalt.
 
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