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A visit to the machine shop...

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  #181  
Old 01-02-2018, 11:27 PM
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Yes, the new style "PMGR" aka Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction starters are great.
On small block Fords, the starter has a different depth of pinion protrusion for manual vs. automatic transmissions. I would think this would also apply to the sixes.
I use stock Ford late model PMGR starters, as opposed to aftermarket since I can get them cheap at the local scrap yard.

The starter cables featured on the website look good. So many cars have really crappy stock or repaired battery cables, it's good to see a small company making top quality pieces.
 
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  #182  
Old 01-05-2018, 05:53 PM
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Yeah, pretty sure the 300 and SBF starters are interchangeable assuming auto/auto or manual/manual. A j/y spare is a good thought. The new starter will allegedly be here today by 8:00 pm.

The cables are nice, a bit longer so I can snake them under the A/C and away from the exhaust would have been better, but very beefy. I highly recommend. In hand less than four days from order.

I've decided I'm done fooling with the clutch. I spent four hours plus and ran a couple quarts of brake fluid through and there are still bubbles. I'mma have a shop knock it out so I can drive the frickin' thing. I never should have changed the slave - old one had less than 5,000 miles but, "oh, while it's right there I might as well replace it."

Anyway, fresh fuel and running tomorrow. Shop Monday, driving it Tuesday. Maybe.
 
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  #183  
Old 01-05-2018, 11:32 PM
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Is your clutch working enough that you can shift the gears without clashing?

I have found over the years that getting all the air out of hydraulic clutch or brake lines can be very difficult. However if you can get it to the point of being minimally functional, and then daily drive the vehicle, the air will be driven out over time.
 
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  #184  
Old 01-21-2018, 09:48 AM
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Maybe, I'll get a helper to press the clutch while I check to see if the slave is working at all.

Fired the beast back up and it ran fine on fast idle then dies once the choke opens. Which means vacuum leak in my mind. Checked with smoke but couldn't see a leak, but it was maybe too windy to see small leaks. I yanked the carb yesterday - it sat for a year and the gas inside evaporated, so figured I might as well clean it and blow out all the passages; then reinstall with new gaskets. To be continued.
 
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  #185  
Old 01-21-2018, 01:46 PM
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Well, I can't find a leak blowing smoke into the intake or spraying around the carb/intake runner. It won't run unless the idle speed screw is completely screwed in - running ~1,700 rpm. I can see fuel coming out of the boosters, so the throttle plates are clearly way too open but when I back out the screw 1/2 turn it stumbles and dies. Vacuum is ~18" and drops an inch or so intermittently. Advancing/retarding the distributor doesn't have much effect. It's kooky.
 
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  #186  
Old 01-22-2018, 12:02 PM
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Hrmm... Are you sure you don't accidentally have a vacuum cap left off? That's what it sounds like to me. If that's from a leak, it sounds like a big one (and is usually how my engine behaves when I leave a cap off on accident).

I would think with those symptoms, the leak would be pretty evident. I've had some hefty leaks before and still been able to drive it around.

I know you went through a number of different carbs, which one do you have on there now?
 
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  #187  
Old 01-22-2018, 07:09 PM
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It's the same old Edelbrock carb. I checked and rechecked vacuum caps. I'm going to wait for a sunny/calm day, stand over the engine then get under the truck, and try with the smoke again. Installed the intake with a Mr Gasket and RTV around each runner so I can't imagine it's leaking but a leak on the underside of the manifold is all I can figure since there's nothing showing up top.
 
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  #188  
Old 01-27-2018, 02:01 AM
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Vacuum leak through the brake booster?

Just read through this whole thread, you got me all excited with the Dyno talk then when you passed on it i was already in for a penny and decided to grab the pound lol

Hope its a simple fix. as i am interested in your "butt o meter" Findings.

Cheers,
Joe
 
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  #189  
Old 01-27-2018, 02:51 PM
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I pulled vacuum on the booster and it held so that shouldn't a worry. It's too windy today but tomorrow I'mma yank the carb again, tape up the intake, and make with the smoke again. The way it's acting it should be an easily visible leak but smoke coming out the carb/air cleaner makes it harder to discern any leaks around the gasket face.
 
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  #190  
Old 01-27-2018, 05:56 PM
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Well the intake manifold is holding pressure so there's no leak below the carb/spacer. I reckon I'll get a kit for the carb and do a rebuild since it sat for a year and all the fuel inside evaporated. The bowls had varnish/grime in the bottom even after sitting with fuel for a week plus so maybe there are clogged passages. I blew brake cleaner through the jets and idle mixture screws but maybe that didn't cut it.

Could a bad ignition module or coil cause it to die at idle like that?
 
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  #191  
Old 01-28-2018, 03:43 PM
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One of the nice things about being an idiot is you can learn something new every day if you try.

I disassembled the carb and soaked it overnight then I was rinsing the body this a.m. watching the water run through the port on the base of the carb streaming out the PCV port. For whatever reason I figured the PCV was ported, above the throttle plates. Nope, and with the PCV valve not closing fully...

It's idling smoothly with ~20" vacuum at ~700 rpm with room to back off the idle screw a bit more. A little more work to dial in the timing, maybe, but she's styling for now.

I think I'll connect the PCV to the air cleaner vs. carb or intake after this.
 
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  #192  
Old 01-29-2018, 10:09 AM
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Nice to hear you have it idling and running nicely. Good work.
I usually have my PCV just hooked to one of the big ports either directly on the intake itself (like the brake booster) or one of the BIG ports on the carb baseplate.

And now your carb is nice and clean too, so you should be good to go.
 
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  #193  
Old 02-04-2018, 02:54 PM
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It's alive!

As I was fiddling around with the timing, etc. at idle I noticed the clutch made a sound like it was engaging/disengaging. Dunno how or why considering the air bubbles that just kept coming out when I was trying to bleed it, but it works well enough to drive now. It feels a little soft still though. And driving without the transmission cover in place lets you really hear the engine.

Up to now I've been tuning with a vacuum gauge. Took it on the road and it felt sluggish so I decided hook up a timing light once I got back. Thirty degrees advanced. It's a new balancer and I double checked TDC with a piston stop then scored and marked the balancer so unless the balancer slipped already it should be right. I don't know how an engine would even start with 30 advance but it fired right up on hot starts.

I backed it down to 12 and played with the idle screw to get it idling somewhat smoothly ~800rpm. Much snappier.

Switched the vacuum advance from ported to manifold vacuum and was able to back the idle screw out and idle pretty smooth at ~700 rpm. Pulling 18" vacuum but with some slight movement of the needle. Snappier still.

Moved the accelerator pump from the middle hole to the lower (i.e. more fuel). Better still. So I reckon it's time to break out the A/F meter and see whether the carb needs some additional tuning. Gots to get it inspected before I drive outside the neighborhood for any meaningful A/F testing though.
 
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  #194  
Old 02-12-2018, 05:36 PM
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Geez, I've been too lazy to fool with the truck evenings after work and the weather has been crummy on the weekends. Did a walk around to check the lights and need to replace a couple. I broke down and ordered a pair of Hella globes/H4 bulbs to replace the sealed beam headlights. Once I get it to the lease I can swap in some bulbs with 100w high beams (or 80w low and 140w high) which should be pretty sweet off road. Still need to bolt in the seatbelts and the dadgum mirror will not stay glued to the windshield. For a 30+ year-old vehicle it's a safety inspection, no emissions testing, so no real worries.

Also decided to replace the rocker nuts and confirm the preload on each lifter. The vacuum is still a bit lower than I think it should be so want to confirm none of the rocker nuts are too tight. Plan is 1/2 turn past zero lash (as determined by moving the pushrod up and down rather rotating to resistance) and live with it. To be continued...
 
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  #195  
Old 02-14-2018, 06:22 PM
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Removed and replaced all the rocker nuts - all had a full turn, maybe a wee bit more, preload before the pushrod would move up and down. So not way too tight anyway. With 1/2 turn preload it's noisier but drives well. Still only pulling ~18" of vacuum at idle with ~1/2" random drop/variation.

Base timing ~14 plus the vacuum advance drawing from manifold vacuum = ~28 at idle. Vacuum is strong and steady off idle, over 20".

It just doesn't seem as smooth as it should be. I should be able to get it inspected this weekend and will see what's going on with carb via an A/F gauge. Might as well do a compression test too. Then maybe new cap, rotor, wires and plugs.
 
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