6.0 Oil Temp vs. Water Temp
#1
6.0 Oil Temp vs. Water Temp
Hey guys, real quick, I've been a member of this site for years, but haven't visited in a while and couldn't get my old login to work, so I just made a new one. Anywho, my question, which I did search, but didn't find exactly what I needed. Truck - 05 F250 6.0 w/ 51,000 miles, stationed in Alaska. I just got a scanguage II, (more for monitoring my volts), but I've been comparing the water/oil temps too. Today, for the first time I took a long highway ride. Outside temp was about 25F. Truck was running about 220 oil and 180 water. I've been reading about the whole 15* difference thing. I'm at about 40*. Does this still apply to those living in cooler climates? BTW, I wasn't towing anything, but had my 900 lb Can Am in the bed. I don't have a grill cover. Truck has an open exhaust. Little help from the pros please? Appreciate it!
#2
You Need a Thermostat
And Check those Temps/Gauges @ Cold SOak ALL Fluid Temps (TFT ECT EOT) should be SAME upon startup
You Most likely NEED A Oil Cooler and SInce your 05 a Bullet Proof EGR Cooler would be Ideal But if you Fix it Soon You Could Reuse the EGR Cooler you Have if it don't leak
But its a Problematic EGR Cooler that Year so the Guys Change if Possible
And Check those Temps/Gauges @ Cold SOak ALL Fluid Temps (TFT ECT EOT) should be SAME upon startup
You Most likely NEED A Oil Cooler and SInce your 05 a Bullet Proof EGR Cooler would be Ideal But if you Fix it Soon You Could Reuse the EGR Cooler you Have if it don't leak
But its a Problematic EGR Cooler that Year so the Guys Change if Possible
#3
#4
I find with cooler temps (0 degrees ambient versus 100 degrees) my temps close the gap by 1-2 degrees.
I also found installing a new t-stat helps as well.
However, your oil cooler is toast no doubt about that.
The only other thing would be to verify cold soak temps just to make sure your oil temp sender isn't reading off 20+ degree compared to the ECT.
Josh
I also found installing a new t-stat helps as well.
However, your oil cooler is toast no doubt about that.
The only other thing would be to verify cold soak temps just to make sure your oil temp sender isn't reading off 20+ degree compared to the ECT.
Josh
#5
#6
Thanks for all the help guys. I just did what Blade suggested and checked all temps before start up. Here is what I got (its a crazy warm day here in Anchorage) 32 Tranny Temp, 33 coolant Temp, 35.2 Eng Oil Temp (read with a scanguage II. I'm guessing this means my sending units are ok since these are relatively close. After doing more reading, I'm thinking going with the BPD Oil Cooler system and a Sinister EGR delete. I'm guessing might as well do the thermostat as well? Let me know your thoughts guys.
Thanks,
Sean
Thanks,
Sean
#7
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#8
You might try a fia cold weather front. A new tstat has trouble keeping engine hot enough after a few weeks in real cold weather too.
I have the bpd remote cooler in florida, i use the cold air front even jn the 50s to keep my temps over 190s.
Sent from my Sprint PC36100 using IB AutoGroup
I have the bpd remote cooler in florida, i use the cold air front even jn the 50s to keep my temps over 190s.
Sent from my Sprint PC36100 using IB AutoGroup
#9
You might try a fia cold weather front. A new tstat has trouble keeping engine hot enough after a few weeks in real cold weather too.
I have the bpd remote cooler in florida, i use the cold air front even jn the 50s to keep my temps over 190s.
Sent from my Sprint PC36100 using IB AutoGroup
I have the bpd remote cooler in florida, i use the cold air front even jn the 50s to keep my temps over 190s.
Sent from my Sprint PC36100 using IB AutoGroup
#10
I don't think you have a problem, I run at temps like this all winter and much colder, At 25 f outside temp, that is perfectly normal. Anything below freezing, with out a winter front or blocking off rad, and you will see higher oil temps and low coolant. Mine had done this since I got my outlook monitor and could read digital temps. As soon as I am pulling a hill water temps will climb, go down the other side will cool off down to around 185 - 189, but then if the hill is longer it will bottom out even lower. I think you need a good winter front, make sure your running a good diesel oil rated API CI 4+ or CJ 4 and this will be fine.
#11
I could see blocking the radiator with cardboard or something, but I would still want unimpeded air to the IC
Josh
#12
Winter front doesn't totally block off the air flow, it blocks about 2/3 of it. Air temps in the intercooler are still quite cold, this is why the motor takes longer to heat up. That is why you use a proper winter front and don't just block off with a piece of cardboard. Block to much off and you risk trams, intercooler, rad not getting sufficient air flow when pulling hills ect. Most I would block is the lower 2/3 of the radiators with cardboard, in extreme cold temps, block it all off, but have a whole cut in the cardboard about 8" * 8" to let some flow through....
#13
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