If I got the engine out....

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Dec 21, 2013 | 02:44 PM

#16

jhand124

Posting Guru

Joined: Oct 2007

Posts: 2,225

Likes: 1

From: Farmington, Minnesota

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baatzy

Engine is on its way out, partially ready to be removed. The entire front clip is off, turbo is off, all that stuff. The radiator and intercooler are at the local shop getting cleaned and flushed. Hopefully tomorrow the alternator and starter will be removed and off to that local rebuilder, to be checked out and possible rebuilt.

Tomorrow we are looking at pulling it, if we can find a working cherry picker.

The one we thought would work has a leaking lift cylinder.

After getting things apart I have found some rust. Everything is surface rust though so not too worrying, however I was wondering what you guys would recommend I do for this stuff.My main areas are looking like the frame rails, inside of the bumper, intake and exhaust parts, and possibly pan.

1. For the frame rail and bumper I was thinking clean, and bed liner in a can.....

2. Intake and exhaust we were thinking some sort of high temp engine paint(blue).

3. Pan, I am not sure of, I can't tell if its just dirt, or start of surface rust. If it is rust would a simple clean and paint be ok?

As far as the turbo rebuild goes, where do you guys have your shafts rebalanced? We have a few good local machine shops but I don't know if they would do this kind of work or not.

I would like to thank everyone for the knowledge shared around here, without it I never would have gotten this far, or had the guts to dig into my truck like this.

Thanks for everything and more thoughts and input are always welcome!

Baatzy

For the rebalance of the turbo look for a shop locally that services big rigs/diesel equipment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SaintITC

Since you're obviously going to drain the coolant, I'd also remove / clean / inspect the water pump, front housing cover, T-stat and associated plumbing. If the engine has had any extended run time without SCA, there might be indications of that on the backside of the front cover, as it's made of soft aluminum. You'd **** yourself after having it out and that thing starts leaking in the front end anywhere when you fire her up with new fluids.

Anybody have suggestions for him regarding the LPOP while it's so easily seen?

A Melling LPOP is pretty cheap, it's easy to do and will give you piece of mind.
X2 on checking the water pump and front cover.

Dec 21, 2013 | 10:20 PM

#17

Baatzy

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Oct 2012

Posts: 872

Likes: 18

From: Jasper, Mn

We had alot less progress today, spent most of the day getting the cherry picker home and working, and some other stuff around the farm. We have everything ready to pull other than the transmission bolts, engine mount bolts, and the fuel lines disconnected.

The trick I used when doing the in tank mods, just wouldn't work for me up here so we have to find a fuel line disconnect tool. I wish I would have known that before noon Saturday in a small town.

Tomorrow we are planning to get the engine pulled, and start cleaning, if we can get the lines apart.

I started some work on the bumper and other things, the bumper is alot worse of than I originally thought. Once we cleaned all the dirt out of the lower lip, we found a decent amount of rust, but nothing that has gone through so I think I will be ok there. I am planning on cleaning everything up using a paint preparing wheel on my drill. So far it has done a good job so I think I will stick with it.

In the meantime we started work on the turbo, but we are having trouble getting the center support separated from the turbine housing. Does anyone have any good suggestions? So far our light tapping and prying has gotten us nowhere but

.

For Monday we are planning on having the alternator and starter out to be brought to town and checked out, rebuilt if needed. Other than that no real plans because we have no idea if we will get the fuel line disconnect tool.

Also I did get the LPOP, so that will be getting replaced.

Thanks for all the info and suggestions,

Baatzy

Dec 23, 2013 | 09:32 PM

#18

Baatzy

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Oct 2012

Posts: 872

Likes: 18

From: Jasper, Mn

The engine is out! After a long fight today we go it out and loose, man is that one heavy son of a gun!

Found quite a bit of dirt and grease, and the valley is fairly wet, so I am glad I have the mechanics kit of orings, hopefully this will allow the place to stay nice and dry after I get it clean. This project has definitely exceed its time limit, today was day 4, but I am happy overall. It will be a tough job to get it as clean as I want but we will see.

Also today, I got the turbo rebuilt, and the bumper mostly cleaned up. Tomorrow should finish off the bumper and get me into the orings on the engine.

Thanks for all the support on here,

Baatzy

Dec 24, 2013 | 12:57 PM

#19

jhand124

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Joined: Oct 2007

Posts: 2,225

Likes: 1

From: Farmington, Minnesota

Sweet, awesome. FYI they come out easier than thay go in. If you can get new nuts for connecting the TC, they are mechanical locking and should only be used once.

Edit: you have handshaker, it will go in a little easier for you.

Dec 28, 2013 | 11:11 PM

#20

Baatzy

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Oct 2012

Posts: 872

Likes: 18

From: Jasper, Mn

A short update....

The engine is awaiting Riffraff's FRx, and then it goes back in. Unfortunately I snapped the FPR housing late Friday afternoon when reinstalling the fuel bowl, so this was my best option. Props to Clay for getting it out the door yet Friday afternoon!
UPS next day air disappointed though, they couldn't manage to get it here till Monday.

Other than the FRx it is all ready to set back in the beast. I am starting to get excited, I can't wait to hear the old girl roar back to life and move under its own power. I am going to compression test(IF I can find the fitting to adapt the grease hose to the GP holes) so hopefully when I go to start it, it will just roar to life.

Thanks for all the help from everyone,

Baatzy

Dec 31, 2013 | 11:43 PM

#21

Baatzy

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Oct 2012

Posts: 872

Likes: 18

From: Jasper, Mn

In need of some help, we fought the engine for about 4 hours tonight trying to get it lined up and in. We are having no luck getting the input shaft to line up. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to help us? We are getting pretty wore out, but are going to give it another shot tomorrow.

Thanks guys

Baatzy

Jan 1, 2014 | 08:03 AM

#22

SaintITC

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 1,614

Likes: 22

From: Springfield, PA

Have no idea if this applies to really big things like this, but when I would have troubles lining up input splines on those tiny 5.0L buggers I used to play with in my Mustangs, I had two tricks.

One was using longer threaded rods in a few of the tranny housing holes as temporary alignment pins, to help guide me in straight, and two I would raise the rear, put it in gear and have someone rotate the tires to spin the input shaft a little. I believe someone here said you have a MT...

Oh yeah, Happy New years all!

Jan 1, 2014 | 11:21 PM

#23

Baatzy

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Oct 2012

Posts: 872

Likes: 18

From: Jasper, Mn

It's done!!!!

It's done! We tightened the last grille screw at 10:15 tonight, and took her for a drive.

Thanks SaintITC for the tips, I jacked the rear of the pickup up, and that allowed us to mate the engine and transmission alot easier. After getting the input shaft to slide in it just took a little jacking on the transmission casing to get the bolt holes to line up and voila, in it went.

After that was done, it took us about 4.5 hours to put everything back together to the point of being able to start it. After 6 20 second cranks she grabbed and fired.

Once again, a huge THANK YOU to everyone on here for giving me the confidence and information to complete this work!

Happy New Year!!!!