I'm hoping I can have some time to give the ol girl some TLC over Christmas break, since school and work has been keeping me and her on the go since September.I'm thinking I'll have time so I am considering pulling my engine over Christmas break, when I wont have any school interfering, and I'll have a nice garage to do it in.

First off, I'm wondering if there is anything that I should rebuild just cause I got it out? Any common "wear" items I should check?

As of now I plan on giving it a great cleanup, using my mechanics kit of orings, doing the injector O-rings and probably painting all the exhaust parts. How is that for a list?

Secondly, what is the common practice for compression testing the engine outside of the truck? Or is this a bad idea?


Thanks,

Baatzy

 

Check the condition of your up pipes. It's a lot of work to do, and be prepared for unexpected costs. I'm almost done, and this time is the cheapest Ive ever gotten away with for costs. I'll be around $700 with all the O rings, fluids, up pipes, etc. How's your oil pan?

 

I am thinking that unless there is some reason you did not mention, pulling the engine to do any of that is just a lot of wasted time. all of it can be done in the truck. Or is there another reason the engine needs to come out

 

I'm guessing it's just a lets go above and beyond type of scenario and an excuse to pull the engine to "get to know it better" while he does what he's planning. I can't say I blame him one bit... There's a few places on my ol girl I haven't touched yet that I wouldn't mind just having a gander at

Rebuild the oil cooler and replace the hpop lines

 

Oil plugs at the top rear of the heads, not a bad idea to update them.

 

Carltonwebb- I want to pull the engine to make all the stuff I plan on doing easier. Also, my engine is very very dirty, it bothers me so much, but l have come to the conclusion that the only way to get it clean enough to make me happy is to pull it and have full access to everything. Also I have a few issues that wreak havoc with me if I spend much time sprawled over an engine bay. I have no idea how the top of the engine ever got this dirty, but at any rate it needs cleaned. It's also a nice time for me to address issues. I'll be at home, in a nice finished, heated garage, I'll have my other vehicles available for running, and as John said, its a good chance to learn a little more about her.

My uppipes should be good, she got bellowed ones last Christmas break, and from my brief stints under the truck the oil pan looks fine. That was one thing that surprised me with this truck, it was a little beat up but everything underneath still has paint on it. I will double check that though.

I think that I will add the oil cooler rebuild, HPOP lines, and plugs to my list, as well as Turbo rebuild, and billet wheel and IC boots.

Thanks for all the suggestions and comments, any and all are appreciated,

Baatzy

 

If your oil pan is rusted then I would either replace it or seal the outside of it with KBS or POR15. If the oil pan does come off then check your oil jets for any loose or broken ones. Riffraffdiesel sells the updated ones that are welded.

 

Since I have it out, I will probably pull the pan and look at the jets. This is somewhat time dependent though. My christmas break time is slowly getting whittled away so we will have to see what all I can get done. Trying to plan now, but studying for finals has me busy for the next week.

Maybe I missed it, but what is the thought on compression testing the engine outside of the truck? I don't think I have low compression, but I would like to test it anyhow. I know its better to test it warm, but obviously I cant run the engine with it out of the truck, is there anything else I can do for it that will effectively simulate being warm? Knipco pointed at it for a couple hours before starting the test? How do you guys turn it over? I know faster is better, but would just spinning it by hand work?

Thanks for all the thoughts and info guys,

Baatzy

 

Bump. Does anyone have insight on the compression testing?

Thanks,

Baatzy

 

I did this while the motor was on the hoist. You have to remount your starter make some cables to connect battery's, get a bump switch (momentary switch with alligator clips) most part stores have them. Hook up a battery charger to batts set on start. I would replace o-rings on injectors first and every other o-ring that you are going to replace, mock turbo back on with old o-rings(to prevent any oil splatter), put oil filter back on fill with new oil if you drained it, fill oil rails, HPOP, turning the motor over during the test will help with starting when you fire it back up after it's all buttoned up. I would also put a Melling LPOP in while your at it (before comp test).

 

I did the test while cold, no real way to heat it up to operating temp. Also make sure you have the correct GP adapter for the comp tester.

 

I didn't see new GP's on your list. New EBPS and tube, updated UVCH. I would search around for a 6.0 intercooler ($100 at junk yards). If you rebuild the turbo, don't forget to get the shaft assembly balanced. Good luck, keep us in the loop with your progress.

 

Engine is on its way out, partially ready to be removed. The entire front clip is off, turbo is off, all that stuff. The radiator and intercooler are at the local shop getting cleaned and flushed. Hopefully tomorrow the alternator and starter will be removed and off to that local rebuilder, to be checked out and possible rebuilt.

Tomorrow we are looking at pulling it, if we can find a working cherry picker. The one we thought would work has a leaking lift cylinder.


After getting things apart I have found some rust. Everything is surface rust though so not too worrying, however I was wondering what you guys would recommend I do for this stuff.My main areas are looking like the frame rails, inside of the bumper, intake and exhaust parts, and possibly pan.

1. For the frame rail and bumper I was thinking clean, and bed liner in a can.....

2. Intake and exhaust we were thinking some sort of high temp engine paint(blue).

3. Pan, I am not sure of, I can't tell if its just dirt, or start of surface rust. If it is rust would a simple clean and paint be ok?

As far as the turbo rebuild goes, where do you guys have your shafts rebalanced? We have a few good local machine shops but I don't know if they would do this kind of work or not.


I would like to thank everyone for the knowledge shared around here, without it I never would have gotten this far, or had the guts to dig into my truck like this.

Thanks for everything and more thoughts and input are always welcome!

Baatzy

 

as far as turbo balance ? I would ask Clay at Riff Raff D if you dont get anything from searches or responses, & as far as protecting metal parts surface prep is going to impact the life span of your paint or bed liner coating. you will find in some threads of some rust treatments to apply with less prep,maybe you can gets some ideas from some searches here.

 

Since you're obviously going to drain the coolant, I'd also remove / clean / inspect the water pump, front housing cover, T-stat and associated plumbing. If the engine has had any extended run time without SCA, there might be indications of that on the backside of the front cover, as it's made of soft aluminum. You'd **** yourself after having it out and that thing starts leaking in the front end anywhere when you fire her up with new fluids.

Anybody have suggestions for him regarding the LPOP while it's so easily seen?