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Alright, well I won't have access to that fancy scan tool for a while as tomorrow is my last day of class for the semester. So how does one do this with a DMM?
Alright, well I won't have access to that fancy scan tool for a while as tomorrow is my last day of class for the semester. So how does one do this with a DMM?
Take the sensor connector off, ground one end of the DMM and probe the three plugs inside the connector with the key on. You should get 5V in one of them. IIRC it's the "odd man" inside the connector (two of them are side by side).
Take the sensor connector off, ground one end of the DMM and probe the three plugs inside the connector with the key on. You should get 5V in one of them. IIRC it's the "odd man" inside the connector (two of them are side by side).
Okay I'll give that a shot tomorrow. Voltmeter just on regular 12V right?
Sure do appreciate y'all's help, this thread may be 87 pages long by the end of it but I'm going to figure out what's wrong haha.
So you can't just pull the connector out of the sensor, flip it upside down and test the 3 pins? I thoughts that what you were talking about earlier but now I'm confused haha.
So you can't just pull the connector out of the sensor, flip it upside down and test the 3 pins? I thoughts that what you were talking about earlier but now I'm confused haha.
That's a good diagram to store on your computer. It's not extremely specific AFA wire colors go but it will help you go a long way with diagnostics and how things work with each other in a general sort of way.
You can disconnect it at the sensor but their may be a reason for testing it connected to the sensor. That I don't know.....
You can disconnect it at the sensor but their may be a reason for testing it connected to the sensor. That I don't know.....
With the connector disconnected you only have the 5 volt vref. Back probing with sensor connected verifies the 5 volt reference and also the sensor signal to the PCM.
If you have those two things, it shows:
1) the sensor works
2) the problem lies between the sensor output and PCM.
Which means start chasing the harness for chafing or breaks/corrosion.
Not to throw salt in the wounds, but for the 8 pages it's taken to do this would take about 15 minutes with a competent mechanic in the field.
Well good thing I'm not a mechanic making money off this then I guess. I just don't always understand things completely by reading it, I have to physically see it and do it. Not just related to mechanical, I just have to actually do it for it to click and I'm not about to pay somebody to do something that I can figure out haha
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