I only have 65k on truck and I think the turbo id going out I have a slight scraping sound on take off goes away after that my question is can the turbo be done without pulling off the cab?

 

It can be done but it isn't much fun.

 

In a word, Yes. Is it easy? No. I just replaced mine about 3 weeks ago. It took me all day Saturday and half a day Sunday. I could prolly do it in a Saturday now that I have done it. I will be glad to give you any pointers. I will tell you this, You will be way better off to raise the cab. Mine is a 4 door and there were 8 bolts. Take them out, then working from one side to the other take a floor jack and raise the cab a couple of inches. I then slid a 2X4 cut into 4 inch pieces where the bolt was and let the cab down on them. This gives you enough room to reach over the up pipes and be able to get a socket and a 3/8 ratchet on the bolts on back of the turbo. Those bolts are the only extremely hard part. Also, buy a good 10mm socket and make sure you are straight on the bolts. They round off very easily.

 

What year model is the truck? Ford gives a 100,000 mile 5 year power train warranty.

 

2008 4dr 4x4 bought in 07 so I'm SOL thanks for the info.Right now I just don't know if it's worth fixing I can barely hear the noise I might just sell it and buy a new dodge,I have had two steering boxes break,radiator,and my brakes have never worked right.

 

Have you checked shaft play on them? If its the low pressure charger, there are some nice upgraded units on the market that are pretty reasonably priced.

 

<style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Cambria; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> Yes you can change either turbo cab on. Dealers don’t like it because you really cant properly torque the exhaust flanges in the back correctly. With the right tools it can be done in about 4-6 hrs without touching anything on the cab providing no bolts break off. Without the correct tools i have people spend several days tryin to change the turbos. I personally have done the low pressure turbo in a little over 3.5 hours but i am pretty handy around the engine bay and i consider myself a wrench.... right......

As UGA33 suggested check the end play on the turbo. To due this you are checking the horizontal shaft play not the vertical shaft play. If you can actually feel any horizontal play the turbo is probably toast.

Here is a good example of a bad turbo with excessive horizontal end play ( notice horizontal not vertical!!!!) horizontal is the first sign vertical is the second

Turbo Shaft Play - YouTube

If both turbos are bad i would consider either a 71 or 72 mm atmosphere turbo and just a rebuilt stock high pressure VGT for a stock truck.

A 71 or 72mm if just the atmosphere turbo is bad or just a stock rebuilt high pressure VGT if just the high pressure is bad unless you have future engine upgrades in mind which will require more research on your part to get the proper set of matched turbos.

 

thanks for all the information when I have a chance I will check it out more,no hurry since its not a daily driver

 

well I finally had a chance to take a good look at it and I think its just a heater core noise going to replace hose today I keep everyone posted


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TSB Main Page


TSB
07-24-2

•6.4L ENGINE BUILT BEFORE 06/18/2007 - HEATER CORE NOISE - ALSO DESCRIBED AS GURGLING, RATTLE, OR SCRAPING NOISE

Publication Date: November 21, 2007



FORD:
2008 F-Super Duty



This article supersedes TSB 07-22-2 to update the description in the Issue statement.

ISSUE:

Some 2008 F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with a 6.4L engine and built before 6/18/2007 may exhibit a gurgling type noise coming from the heater core. It has also been described as a rattle or scraping noise. It has also been incorrectly identified as a torque converter concern.

ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE


1.Bring engine to normal operating temperatures.
2.Raise engine RPM to 2500-2900 range.
3.Using a hose clamp tool, crimp the heater inlet hose. If the noise goes away, replace the inlet heater hose.
4.If the noise does not go away, proceed with normal diagnostics. Refer to the Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 100-04.

NOTE: DO NOT ADD AN ADDITIONAL RESTRICTOR TO THE LINE OR MANUALLY MOVE THE EXISTING RESTRICTOR.





NOTE: DO NOT REPLACE THE HEATER CORE.







PART NUMBER

PART NAME

7C3Z-18472-K Heater Hose (With Auxiliary Heat Controls)
7C3Z-18472-L Heater Hose (Without Auxiliary Heat Controls)


WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.


OPERATION

DESCRIPTION

TIME

072402A 2008 F-Super Duty 6.4L Engine: Replace The Inlet Heater Hose, Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis Outlined In The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With 18472A) 1.0 Hr.

DEALER CODING


BASIC PART NO.

CONDITION CODE

18K579 42

 

good news its fixed looks like the scrapping sound was just the heater hose so looks like its staying in the family for now.I am though going to look into buying a warranty after seeing all the issues with these motor.

 

Great news. I am glad it was that easy for you.

 

I bout a 5 year 100k mile 100.00 dollar deducible warranty from carchex, knocking on wood in hopes that I dont have to use it. There is a 30 day waiting period in florida and some states are longer but you can pay monthly installments. I have an 08 with 107k miles on it and paid 2800.

I used them for a Lincoln I bought back in 2000 and it paid back almost 10 fold. I hope I dont need it for this vehicle but I have the peace of mind knwing I am covered.