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Do you let the truck warm up at all or just take right off?? If I start mine up and take off with a minute or two, but truck doesn't like to shift either. My tranny temp though is ice cold at the time, which makes me think it is designed that way. Now if I let my truck warm up for a bit it is just fine.
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
No, it's not designed that way. My development vehicles didn't do this.
letting the engine get warm thins the oils which helps the injectors move. if you plug you truck in and let get to 120 or so then start it it will do the same thing. This a good way to deal with early signs of stiction until you can get to polishing spool valves, Don't wait too long though
As stated by most already defitely sounds like an injector and or FICM issue.
Sounds like you got re-flashed at Ford. With the latest software comes a loss of power, sadly. Most see a reduction in fuel economy, too! If you'd like to re-gain that power (and, as an option, then some!), ship the module on over to us and we can get you set up with an aftermarket software option that you will LOVE.
The Atlas 40 option is by far the most popular, but all of them have their place.
I uselly wait until eot is 90s and ects are around 100s before I drive the truck this also helps heat the trans fluid , watch your gauge , and not the ones on the dash cluster.
No offense but absolutely not needed if your truck is running right. Waste of fuel and not doing the engine any favors. Just don't floor it til warmed up.
No offense but absolutely not needed if your truck is running right. Waste of fuel and not doing the engine any favors. Just don't floor it til warmed up.
No Offence Takin, so for the Most will be EOT and ECT cold start at say 85 with out plugin in? that's seems to be the Ideal Numbers and the Trans temp will Shift correctly Too. with trans Fluid heated as well . Not to Mention FICM. Just like my truck Toasty .who now's whats up with the Fuel/ Oil these Days (Dam Corp Deals)
I agree that is a lack of adequate power issue caused either by sticking injectors or a bad FICM. Check out the FAQ page on FICMrepair.com for a how to on checking the output voltage of the module - spec is between 45 and 50 volts. We'd be happy to take care of you if that is the issue.
Can you explain why, if this is a FICM issue, that it would only present itself when cold? It seams that if it was a voltage issue it would always be present?
Oil viscosity. It's easy to tell a difference between 15W, 5W, and 0W during cold starts. Failing FICM = less power to the injector coils to shuttle against cold oil to allow oil in to push the fuel plunger = lower power.
If a FICM is bad enough it will run poorly at all temps, but by that time there's normally a compounded issue in the injectors themselves due to the low votlage.
I saw this same "weird shifting" issue on a 2003 with 285k, original injectors and HPOP. Was just an overall wearing out of the HPOP system, new sticks and pump and solved.
Oil viscosity. It's easy to tell a difference between 15W, 5W, and 0W during cold starts. Failing FICM = less power to the injector coils to shuttle against cold oil to allow oil in to push the fuel plunger = lower power.
If a FICM is bad enough it will run poorly at all temps, but by that time there's normally a compounded issue in the injectors themselves due to the low votlage.
I saw this same "weird shifting" issue on a 2003 with 285k, original injectors and HPOP. Was just an overall wearing out of the HPOP system, new sticks and pump and solved.
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