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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

When to Box????

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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 03:15 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by big schott
I've done a little homework on the Helix IFS. WOW I can't believe that they are even in business anymore.. ? Has anyone had a good experience with this setup/company? I think I may save up for a couple more months and get a $2500 budget for the IFS.
I think that is an outstanding plan. This is one place where you only want to do this once, and do it the best you can.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 03:28 PM
  #17  
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As I have said before on here , you can't go past the jag f/end for it's handling , ride , and great brakes .
I have driven hotrods with both jag f/ends and mustang 2 setups , and the jag always wins hands down .
And the good thing is when you buy parts for them , you know they will fit .
Also it will cost a lot less than the mustang 2 and be easier to install with less welding involved if you bolt it in with it's rubber mounts .
Just my 2c worth .
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 05:51 PM
  #18  
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On the same subject of Boxing the frame. At what point would you want to box the frame horsepower wise? Like 400+ or higher than that?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #19  
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IMHO it depends on what you are using the truck for, what kind of suspension you are using. If you are highway driving , the HP is immaterial you won't be able to put 500 HP to the ground without burning the tires off it. If you are taking it to the strip with slicks on it and you like going straight, it would be best to box and put in a K member and/or a roll cage to stiffen everything as much as possible after 4 - 500 HP. along with suspension designed for straight line traction.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #20  
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Intersting the motor I'm using will have between 380-420 hp wise. Will be used on street and maybe a bit of strip. I plan on running straight axle up front and built 9inch in the rear. With the widest tire I can comfortably fit with out tubbing the box.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 10:17 PM
  #21  
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The Hoffman group, parent company to Helix and a bunch of other company names was an predatory investment group that bought up struggling mom and pop aftermarket companies with respected names and decent products back in the previous recession. They then sent the product prototypes overseas to be cloned by the lowest bidders with little concern for actual quality, turning a blind eye to corner cutting or use of non standard parts or stocking replacement parts, doing no real quality control or oversight of the manufacturers. They essentially became the Harbor Freight of the automotive aftermarket, In it to make a lot of money selling cheaply made parts without regards to the customer.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 10:28 PM
  #22  
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If you are going to use the stock type leaf spring arrangement (a perfectly good street suspension system by the way) then there will be no need for you to box your frame, it would just harshen the ride and stress the frame without benefit. Many consider me a suspension guru around here since it is very important to me in the type of racing I do to maximize traction and handling, but guess what? My truck has a beam axle with parallel leafs front and rear!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #23  
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ok thank you i want to listen to the opinions of people that have done this before, at most i plan on lowering 3 inches with new springs. I do plan on fully replacing all wear parts as well so i as few issues as possible. Thanks
 
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 12:21 AM
  #24  
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My front axle is fully rebuilt, dropped 2" and I have reversed eye lowering springs all around along with Toyota power steering box (HIGHLY recommended!) Ford 9", CSB 400 and T56 6 speed.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 09:15 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by big schott
I'm just talking about just the IFS kit. I know it still have steering linkage and break hoses and other things like that to make it work. But I would like to keep the kit itself under $1700. NowI see eBay has a few choices under that price I am just wondering if they are worth the money or not.
I just installed a Heidt's Must II I bought from JPL Streetrods. It has tubular upper and lower control arms, came with drill/slotted rotors, sway bar, power rack, and stainless brake hoses as an upgrade. Cost me $1725.00 with free shipping. I couldn't be happier with the quality of the kit. Was planning on upgrading the straight axle and steering, but was going to cost almost as much to do that as it was to buy the Must II. I would not settle for an off brand. Go with Heidt's, TCI, No Limit, or Chassis Enineering.
 
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