Greetings from Norway
My name is Erik and I`ve been restoring my F-100 for five years now. It was a real basket case when I bought it, no axles, motor, gearbox, stepside box and a really rusty body.Anyway my problem is that here in Norway we can`t cut or weld the frame.Our ”expert” over here told me to buy a Volare or Aspen front end and bolt it to the frame using an L formed ”ear” in front and the original rubber boot in the rear. Now I see that Flatfenders in a previous letter says that its like driving on ice (something I`m very used to here in Norway, but I`d rather not do during the summer in my Ford!) How many other people have the same setup as I do and how do their cars handle? I`d sure like some feedback here cause the only people I know of with this setup are here in Norway and are satisfied. By the way, if you box the frame up in front won`t that reduce the frame`s ability to ”twist” the way it was meant to?

 

I saw a truck at a show that had the volare front end bolted on that way(though I think the "L" bracket was welded to the truck frame), with the rubber mounts and everything. It looked plenty low enough for me, so that got me wondering why they trim the frame underneath?

I have also read articles that the volare front end was a bad design(for bumpsteer), but they sure did sell alot of cars with them installed.

 

Erik

I would enjoy discussing this in further detail if you like later. Thought I would check in with a few quick comments for now. First of all, I prefer Volares welded in but if that's not legal in Norway then its a mute point for you.

WHen I bought my truck, it was bolted in with L-brackets. It was a joke. It could certainly be done better than mine was.

Bolt-in or weld in does not by itself determine the driving on ice feeling. The issue is correct caster angle. If you can bolt the K-member flush against the frame and achieve the correct angle, then great! If not, you will have to shim it until angle is achieved.

Does boxing reduce the frames ability to flex? Of course it does. Have you ever seen a Volare notch? If you have you will agree a box is not optional. Removal of the firewall area crossmember for modern drivetrain makes it even more necessary.

If you leave the crossmember alone and bolt in your Volare, you can probably skip the box.

Franklin

I would be interested in reading about the bump steer problem on Volares. This is news to me.

regards

 

Dewayne,

this is my buddy from Norway... you think you're patient ?? he waited over a year for my front sheet metal to arrive by boat so he could work on it for another year probably...

Hi Erik...

glad to see you finally here on FTE... I'm like Dewayne.. haven't heard about the bump steer... but I do know if you run the screws down on the Volares fora low ride you're gonna bottom out the suspension... is that what you're referring to ??? I think the bottoming out due to lack of suspension travel and bump steer are two different matters though ?? huh Franklin ???

ask all your questions here Erik... these guys will keep you straight...

later

john

 

Hi, Do you want to stay with the stock ride height? The reason I ask is I believe you could bolt the crossmember from an Aerostar van in place much the same as it is in the van frame. You would have to use a 1 inch spacer either on top or bottom of the frame, depending on the height you wish to achive. This is because the Aerostar frame is 1 in. thicker than the F-100. You could also build bolt in spacers to go between the frame rail to stiffen it up a bit. If you go to Mannyps user gallery there are pictures that will give you the idea of how to do this.
Ozzie.

 

Erik

As a future member of the Volare brotherhood, you'll be needing the pattern for your tatoo. We had to cut Niolon's off with a torch when he removed his Volare clip. John screamed really loud but it served him right. We don't take kindly to traitors around here.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/fatfenders/flamingV_sm.jpg

 

Ok, I can't remember exactly where I saw it. It was definitely in a magazine I was reading in the library. It might have been Hot Rod or Car Craft or something. Anyway they where trying to fix the suspension in an original car that came with it, not a retro-fitted street rod. Here is what I remember they didn't like:

They didn't like how the lower arm was bolted to the torsion bar. They said with a design like this, the torsion bar moves in an arc during suspension travel. This actually moves the lower arm and balljoint front to rear when the suspension went over a bump, causing a reaction to the steering linkage. I guess if the whole bottom of the spindle/balljoint moves front to rear, while the tie rod end is held still by the steering box, you have bumpsteer that can't be compensated for.

 

"This actually moves the lower arm and balljoint front to rear when the suspension went over a bump, causing a reaction to the steering linkage."

The torsion bar is pinned to the mount at the lower control arm bushing with a substantial grade 8 fastener. I'm not sure how the lower control arm could possibly move front to rear any more than compression of the mounts would allow. It would not be anymore than any vehicle that uses a radius arm or torque strut design anyway.

 

Erik,

Contemplating the Volare installation myself in a month or so, I have two comments. I have also considered bolting on the suspension instead of welding it for an easier installation. According to the No-Limit installation video, you need 4-5 degrees of "anti-Dive" built in to the installation. This anti-dive angle is measured from front to rear using an angle finder attached to the suspension where the upper control arms mount. The 4-5 degrees of tilt toward the rear is supposed to give you the caster you need to prevent that "driving on ice" feeling fenders referred to. As long as you get the caster right, it seems to me that the only disadvantage to bolting this suspension on would be in how low you can get it. Obviously, you aren't going to get it as low bolting it on as you will by notching the frame. Another advantage to mounting it this way would be in changing it back or to another type of suspension at a later date if you didn't like the way it handled. Even though you don't cut the original frame off completely, the notch you have to make is rather severe. AMC Pacer front suspensions are bolted on and they seem to work okay. I helped a buddy of mine install an AMC Pacer into a 34 Pontiac years ago and it was bolted on with 'L' brackets similar to what you described and he drove the car over 10 years with great handling and no problems.

As far as boxing the frame is concerned. It is my understanding that you definitely want to box the frame. The flexing of the frame with the original axle is okay, but you do not want the frame to flex once the independent suspension has been added. All the flexing is now done by the added suspension and any frame flexing after the suspension is added will only put undue stress on the points where it is attached to the original frame.

 

Tex Smith's book on "How to Build Custom Cars" shows how to do the bolt in volare. On my 51 I have notched and boxed the front of the frame and then built brackets to bolt in the volare. I did it this way so I would have the extra adjustment if needed when aligning the front-end.(my truck is extended 18" and welding in the crossmember really worried me that it might not align properly) The truck is still a long way from being on the road, so I can't tell how this will work out. But there shouldn't be any reason that a bolt in wouldn't work as well as a weld in crossmember.

 

Gdub,

Is that book still in print? I'd love to see that article.

 

Thanks for your help everyone.I should have come here a long time ago. It gets kind of lonely working all alone with hardly anyone to ask for help. By the way, I saw that Kai had griped about the cost of gas in Germany. Here in Norway it costs 5.25 dollars a gallon.

 

Vern,

I've seen the book from time to time in bookstores and I saw an ad in Streetrodder or one of the Classic Truck mags for Tex Smith books in the last month or so. If all else fails, e-mail me and I will scan it and send it to you.

 

Gary,

I appreciate that. I'll look through my old Classic Truck mags. Thanks again.

 

Vern

google search turned up this....
http://www.brooklands-books.com/pages/texpl.html

and this
http://www.cyberauto.com/index.htm?h...om/cartech.htm

and this
http://www.freedomstreetrods.com/books.htm

john