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I bought a 1992 F350 Crew Cab with a 7.3 in it last week. Had the ball joints replaced yesterday because there was a rattle on the drivers side that two mechanics thought was a bad lower ball joint. It doesnt happen at idle and happens when I start accelerating and then comes and goes. Picked the truck up today and even with all 4 new ball joints it is still happening.
I'm surprised the mechanics wouldn't notice a bad u-joint. You can jack the driver side up so the tire is just off the ground and spin the tire a little forward and then backward. If you see play in the u-joint, it is damaged, or the knuckle holding it doesn't turn right away when you spin the tire then it is no good. There are lots of youTubes on identifying bad u-joints.
I'm surprised the mechanics wouldn't notice a bad u-joint. You can jack the driver side up so the tire is just off the ground and spin the tire a little forward and then backward. If you see play in the u-joint, it is damaged, or the knuckle holding it doesn't turn right away when you spin the tire then it is no good. There are lots of youTubes on identifying bad u-joints.
Mechanics arent what they used to be. Example, sprinkler tech at my old job had an 03 stroker, took it to Schwabs "bad ball joints" took it to Mieneke "bad tie rods" took it to local shop A "bad spring bushings".... he took it to those places to get a quote to see who was cheapest and when they all said something different he asked me to look at it (clunked in the steering when turning hard left) was the hub unit bearing...
I had them look at it again this morning and they said everything checks out. It might be as simple as something rattling that is loose - mechanic who did fuel line replacement last week did not make me too confident when I picked it up.
Rattles when I first hit the accelerator and then again when I took my foot off it. I guess I will double check it all for something loose.
I bought a 1992 F350 Crew Cab with a 7.3 in it last week. Had the ball joints replaced yesterday because there was a rattle on the drivers side that two mechanics thought was a bad lower ball joint. It doesnt happen at idle and happens when I start accelerating and then comes and goes. Picked the truck up today and even with all 4 new ball joints it is still happening.
Any ideas of what else it could be?
James
Do not do any more work until you answer these questions because we need more information.
Are you sure it is a rattle or some noise or vibration?
Is this rattle coming from the front or rear (right or left)
Does the rattle occur only in 2wd or 4wd?
Is your front drive shaft turning in 2wd?
Does it occur when vehicle is on a straight road or a slight curve?
Are you sure it is a rattle or some noise or vibration? - It may just be a rattle or something vibrating
Is this rattle coming from the front or rear (right or left) - Front left, almost in line with the drivers right shoulder on the dash
Does the rattle occur only in 2wd or 4wd? - I have not put it in 4wd yet so currently on 2wd
Is your front drive shaft turning in 2wd? - Yes
Does it occur when vehicle is on a straight road or a slight curve? - Both. Discovered this weekend that it happens at about 1100 RPMs no matter what. Both when accelrating and decelerating.
Smooth road or bumpy? - Both at 1100 RPMs
Accelerating from a stop or from 15 to 30, etc? - Again, all about the RPMs
I figured I would answer the questions first but as you can see it is likely just something loose. It vibrates/rattles at 100 RPMs. It does it in park when reving the engine too. When reving in park, the person in the engine bay cant hear it (or barely if you are really listening). Thinking it may be something in the dash?
When your engine is running and your vehicle is stopped and you hear the vibration, place your hand on the dash and increase downward pressure, downward pressure Forward, Rearward, and Left and Right and see if the vibration disappears. You may have to perform this action at several locations.
Also try putting the tips of your fingers on the dash, near the windshield, with your knuckles touching the glass and use the knuckle pressure on the glass to apply pressure on the dashboard, closest to the windshield, to push away from the windshield and see if the noise goes away.
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