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Hey guys, my front end will not stay in allignment and have been told that the upper and lowers need replacing. Can bad joints cause the front end to be pulling right and then hit a bump and then start to pull to the left and go back and forth from bump to bump ?
Yes, that actually is a very good description of what bad ball joints will do. It acts as if it doesn't want to go straight down the road, but pulls both directions, not just one. They are not to difficult to check. Jack up the front of the vehicle and take the tie rod ends loose from the knuckles. Turn the tires so that the ball joints go through their full range of motion. If it feels very loose in a certain spot then they are probably bad. Now grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it so that you are trying to change the camber angle. Do this at where the tire rotated the easiest. If there is any motion or clunking in the ball joints, then they are bad. I just did mine last week because of what you were describing. Worlds of difference now. Make sure you replace them with high quality parts. This is a labor intensive job and easier to put good parts in the first time than to replace cheap ones twice. Oh yeah, if they feel gritty and hard to turn at all, they are most likely dry and rusted out.
My 90EB was complaining of the same symptoms. Changed them out on both sides - everything ok.
I would also check tie rods for wear and ends also + frnt bearings. Mine was w/o a doubt the upper and lowers.
Just to check, jack up the front, grab ea tire at 12 and 6 o'clock. If you feel alot of movement, it is the ball joints. Have someone look behind while you wiggle just to make sure.
if you are even a little mech inclined do the work your self. Pretty easy to do and you can get all tools loaned to you by autozone or other parts stores........ i did mine and saved about $750.
parts are pretty cheap.......i would also recommend new caster/camber bushings too (adjustable)
Originally posted by THOMASNMARTA Hey bronco86 can you give me an estimate of how much the parts cost?
2nd on that, and also..
If it took someone thats not 100% automotively inclined, but love to mess with stuff and learn, about 15 mins per side, per brake and about 5 hours to change a acuator(if you dont know what it is search my name for all my posts), how long would it take to change the ball joints?
Once i would get the hang of it, its a piece of cake, but what the learning curve the 1st time?
At my local autozone, the upper is $30, and the lower is $20. Bearings are extra, of course. I don't remember how much they are - maybe $15 each? You will need a couple of special tools you may or may not have, and a couple large sockets that you probably don't have laying around.
When I did mine for the first time, it was a weekend to do one side. I spent three hours looking for the wrong size hex wrench for the hub. It also took me the better part of four hours to get the spindle off, including two trips to the parts store. I've learned the best way to do it is to use a gear puller. It's a piece of cake at this point.
Now, I can have it torn down to the I-beam in an hour and a half, no problem. It's trivial once you've done it.
In fact, if someone lives close to me, I'd be happy to help you out with it one saturday.
I have had terrible experiences with autozone suspension parts. Like I said pay the extra money and get good parts. Only do it one time. Just to do an alignment for my truck was $66 so even if autozone replaces the parts for free, it is another $66 each time I replace a bad part. I used Moog and I am very happy. I have never had a bad part from them.
My ball joints were fine when I went wheeling a month or so ago. I got stuck when I dropped off a 5 foot ravine nose first and my tires landed in two deep ruts/trenches and my a$$ end came completely off the ground. Tried for 30 minutes to get out, wrenching the steering wheel trying to get loose so I could roll forward but to no avail.
A Chevy came along and pulled me out. I had no problem with that as I was in the middle of freaking nowhere and I have ownwed every brand under the son anyway, no brand loyalty here. When I was finally free my front tires were bowed out bad, the steering wheel was waaayyy off center, and the power steering was sqeeling big time.
So off to the mechanic I went the next day. I had my upper/lower ball joints (MOOG) replaced, sway bar and end link bushings (Urethane) replaced, and front end 4x4 alignment done for $500 by my local shop.
I don't have the time, tools, or knowhow to do it myself. My rig has a 3" body lift and 3" Rancho suspension lift riding on 35x12.5x15 Wild Country's.
It made a HUGE difference in handling and steering, especially at highway speeds. No drifting on the road or over/under correcting on the steering wheel anymore
I had uppers and lowers replaced a couple of days ago and man does it make a difference. No more swaying from side to side or pulling from side to side when I hit bumps. Took it back to Firestone for my realignment since I have the lifetime alignment and it couldn't ride better. On mine, the radius arm bushings and the axle pivot bushings were OK.