Background....

1997 Aerostar 3.0 XLT 80,000 miles.
Check Engine Light On-CEL
Car runs great. I have been maintaining since new.
(I prefer to do maint. myself if possible)
Van looks and drives like new.

I took to Auto parts store and they pulled a 0340 code
(cam shaft sensor). No other codes.
I went home, found the part and removed. The internal magnet
inside the sensor had detached and was spinning around inside
and had started to break apart. I cleaned it all out and went back and bought the "now confirmed malfunctioning part".

I Installed and then disconnected the battery neg terminal for
about 15 mins to reset PCM. Started van and CEL came on again. Part did not appear defective. Drove for a few long cycles but light never went out as I was told it needed time to reconfigure inputs. So I drove it about 500 miles and light stayed on.

Did some reading and some detailed information referred me to the crankshaft sensor and that the camshaft sensor "may" take electrical readings from the positive or neg leads that is used to activate the light for the other. So for $15 I changed that sensor. Still had the CEL.

Went back and pleaded with the guy to reset the light so we can see what happens. He did and it came back on. Took the new cam shaft sensor out to make sure it had not come apart. Looked like new.

Went to another auto parts store and reset CEL again. Still came back on.

HELP! It is beyond me. Pulled fuse that runs PCM and reset. Still get the light. Something else is wrong? But how when the bad part that gave me the correct code has been replaced?

Do I need to rub my belly and tap my head?

 

did you check the end of the synchronizer shaft for damaged interrupter? common where the magnet or the pickup is damaged.
if so, have to replace the synchronizer shaft unit with new and then align syn shaft with CPS
may need the alignment tool and turn engine to TDC on #1. may or may not be TDC timing marks on your vib. damper.

be sure to grease the gear on the end of the syncronizer shaft if you have to replace or pull it with a moly based grease

STEPS for Ford V6s some of these are 3.8L but all the same idea.
I've stabbed probably a couple dozen or more with and without the special alignment tool. all worked and were set correctly

On the OBDII systems such as our 96s& 97s, the CPS supplies positional information for the PCM to set the correct point for fuel injection timing. critical for performance and fuel mileage in these SFI engines

 

I wondered about the condition of that shaft so when I pulled the good sensor off to inspect that area a second time I looked closely but it looked unworn. I vacuumed the area out on the first replacement and remember being glad I did because I heard more pieces being picked up. The problem is that I don't know what a good vs bad shaft would look like. I will say its clean and looks like new inside the cavity but this is my first experience with this. For $85 I could have replaced the entire shaft with the sensor and I remember thinking I should have.

I will pull the sensor off again and look at the Youtube video. Thanks for your insight...

 

Re-inspected, interrupter is GONE. Ground down to a smooth finish almost.

96 4wdr- THANK-YOU

Like one video shows, finding TDC is an air output from #1 plug hole guess? I can easily do this myself if I can find TDC. No marks on my flywheel. You mentioned looking on the vib. damper, where is that?

Also video shows 15 degrees and 60 degrees BTDC. Were most of your FORD's 15 that you worked on?





Assuming I find #1 TDC.. Lube the gear area only or the end of the shaft too?

 

The align tool you need, borrow from AZ on their loaner tool program i use them all the time

moly grease the gear teeth.

Cardone/CAS installation tool kit (84-8400T) | Camshaft Synchronizer Alignment Tool | AutoZone.com

Product Detail

Vehicles This Part Fits
Make Model Year
Ford Mustang 2004-1996
Application Data:
3.8 Liters
Ford Taurus 2007-2006
Application Data:
3.0 Liters
Ford Taurus 2005-1996
Application Data:
3.0 Liters and OHV
Ford Thunderbird 1997-1996
Application Data:
3.8 Liters
Ford Trucks Aerostar 1995-1995
Application Data:
3.0 Liters
Ford Trucks Aerostar 1997-1996
Application Data:
3.0, 4.0 Liters
Ford Trucks E-150 Econoline 2003-1997
Application Data:
4.2 Liters
Ford Trucks E-250 Econoline 2003-1997
Application Data:
4.2 Liters
Ford Trucks Explorer 1999-1996
Application Data:
4.0, 5.0 Liters
Ford Trucks Explorer 2001-2000
Application Data:
5.0 Liters
Ford Trucks F-150 Pickup 2006-1997
Application Data:
4.2 Liters
Ford Trucks Freestar 2007-2004
Application Data:
3.9, 4.2 Liters
Ford Trucks Ranger 2005-1995
Application Data:
3.0 Liters
Ford Trucks Ranger 1999-1996
Application Data:
3.0, 4.0 Liters
Ford Trucks Windstar 1995-1995
Application Data:
3.0 Liters
Ford Trucks Windstar 1999-1996
Application Data:
3.0, 3.8 Liters
Ford Trucks Windstar 2003-2000
Application Data:
3.8 Liters
Mazda Trucks B3000 2006-1995
Application Data:
3.0 Liters
Mercury Cougar 1997-1996
Application Data:
3.8 Liters
Mercury Sable 2005-1996
Application Data:
3.0 Liters and OHV
Mercury Trucks Monterey 2007-2004
Application Data:
4.2 Liters
Mercury Trucks Mountaineer 2001-1997
Application Data:
5.0 Liters

 

Don't use moly, moly does bad things to engines. Use a fast burn ZDDP assembly lube instead.

 

many of the most educated and work experienced tribology scientists in the world are on this forum
also see Noria.com tribology forum

Moly Basics - Bob is the Oil Guy

Applications for Lubrication - Bob is the Oil Guy

 

As a follow up. If you own an aerostar you know that the #1 cylinder sparkplug is VERY difficult to reach and if you have limit tools its difficult to get out. All to find TDC.
So I bought a $65 synchronizer and eyeballed the exact location the last one was in and put the new one in the same way. Car runs fine. Cleared the CEL and it has remained out.

 

If you need to replace the synchronizer, only use the original Ford part even it is far more expensive as cheaper aftermarket parts.
If the snchronizer fails the engine is still running, but without the oil pump. Your engine will fail after ap.1/2 mail and mostly need new Crankshaft.
We had bad experience with cheap aftermarket parts .