I assume you meant to type volts. I should have clarified what I meant by 'seeing it all the time'. 11.8 volts is not bad if he saw this when he first started the truck up in the morning. My truck is 12.6 vlts with Key Off and Engine Off. At Key On, Engine Off, it reads 11.8 volts. When I start it up and let it idle, it fluctuates from 11.8 to 12.4. After the glow plugs are heated up (1 to 2 minutes at most for my 6.0), the VLT reading on Scangauge should be 13.4-14.4 depending on the battery health.

 

Completely agree and yes, I did mean to type volts.

Thanks,

Steve

 

Yes I ment the Store!!

NO AMPS NO GO

 

I'm glad you said something, because after I read it, I didn't provide enough info so I went back and edited my post. Keeping me honest!

 

to the OP!!!

What is the voltage after it is running after 5 mins? Does it sit at 11.8? or does it climb up to 13.8-14.0?

Are you using a scan gauge? You will lose approximately .3 volts on the reading with a scan gauge.

 

Parts from CHINA do you expect more? There idea of QC is that the
chickens don't poop on the electronics work bench.

But really most of the big box auto parts store counter are burger flipper flunkies. They would not know a diode from a french fry.

Some thing to check is all the grounding points for the engine and batteries. Then check all the cables
for corrosion and damage. You may want to try a voltage drop test on the cables. That will identify a bad cable.

Sean

YES I am playing with you a little bit.

 

I will tell you a secret, but you can't tell anyone else. I used to work at one of those stores years ago. People called us Wiper Boys.... and I HATED it! LMAO.

 

First, I really apologize to everyone for not getting back and closing the circle on this one. So, took the alternator back to O'Reilly and had it checked. Passed on the bench test. Had them test it on the vehicle and it failed the charging test. Replaced, failed in-car test again. My son then noticed a disturbance in the insulation on the fender, passenger side. I had a visit from mice! After cleaning it up, wire missing, wires chewed. Wonderful! I am not an electrician and my soldering skills leave a lot to be desired. Back home, solder in replacement sections (there is a plug behind the battery where there are four wires that come out of the hardness with a dead ended plug. Looks like the plug acts as a terminator of some type.) Voila, now getting 12.6 to 13.6 on the Scangauge. Damn mice. I now have a nice treat waiting for them, should they decide to return. I am on my way to Ford to see what this circuit is all about and see if I can get a replacement plug with tails to fix this correctly. Thanks to all who responded. The life time warranty at O'Reilly's was well worth it in this instance. Although, you almost have to be more knowledgeable that the counter folks to get anything done. Disappointing. Cheers, gm.

 

If you have mice then you most have the yummy Ford wiring insulation.

The rodents have been known to like the taste of it for some reason.

Look up squirrels ate wiring >>>> Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Search Results

Sean

 

I hear that moth ***** will deter mice.

 

Moth ***** and dryer sheets both deter mice very well.

 

Not to add salt to the wound, but you might want to keep an eye on your FICM main power output voltage for the next few months. Alternator issues tend to be followed up with FICM issues. Very often, about three months is the magic time frame.

I've struggled with mice in various vehicles over the years. Time to try the dryer sheet trick!

 

^^^^ this 100X's over!

I had an alternator go out. I but a new one on charged the batteries to 100% and a few weeks later lost the FICM.

Ed is the man and will make sure you have a good quality part if and when you need it.