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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

No heater...wtf

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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #1  
73 ford guy's Avatar
73 ford guy
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No heater...wtf

Trying to get me heater working. Squished the heater hoses and they were very crackly like they were packed with crud. Pulled them and its just the inside walls, its no clogged at all. Replaced anyway.
Had only one hose on connected to heater core and I was able to blow out coolant from heater core easy enough so I'm thinking its not clogged.
Started it up with new hoses on and one hose was real hot and the other just a tiny bit. Blows lots of air, no heat.
Let it run for about 10 minutes and both hoses eventually got hot. Heat out of vents was very very minimal but there was some. Adjusted dial from cold to hot and it changes fine but hot like i say its pretty much non existent.
Wtf.
Could it still be heater core as the one hose took so long to heat up?
Weak water pump?
I have a new heater core but I wanna get some opinions..

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 08:32 PM
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After all that run time I just dipped my finger in top of rad it's its cold!!!! X2 WTF.. Lol
Gotta what thermostat??
Didn't have any overheating problems over the summer but I do short drives.

Maybe an air lock in radiator system?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
Maybe an air lock in radiator system?
That's what I had an issue with... air in the system.

Let the truck run until its at normal operating temperature. Leave the cap off the radiator. Takes about 15 or 20 minutes of idling until my temp gauge goes up to the R in Normal.

Once the thermostat opens, the level in the radiator should drop. Keep adding fluid. You'll see bubbles coming up. The system is "burping" itself.

Took me another 20 min of "burping" until it seemed pretty full.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 08:37 PM
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Ok for 1) how many miles does truck have? 2) Do you know when water pump was last done? 3) How about when holding throttle to 2000RPM for about 1 minute, does it blow hot air now? 4) Is the radiator filled to very top at cold? -DON"T go by the level in the reservoir.

To clarify, we are talking about the '96 5.8ltr.?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 08:42 PM
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350,000 k but its a new motor.
Revving now up at 2000 rpm, maybe a bit better. Not defrost windows kinda warm /hot.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 08:48 PM
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Getting some warmness now. Not perfect.
Temp gauge reads towards the cold. Top rad hose warm ,lower is stone cold. One heater hose I can hold for one sec then too hot the other it's warm hot but I can keep holding it.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cubawashere
Ok for 1) how many miles does truck have? 2) Do you know when water pump was last done? 3) How about when holding throttle to 2000RPM for about 1 minute, does it blow hot air now? 4) Is the radiator filled to very top at cold? -DON"T go by the level in the reservoir.

To clarify, we are talking about the '96 5.8ltr.?
Yes 96 5.8l.

Been running for 15 minutes now. Lower rad hose cold
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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Sounds like water pump issue...coolant flow on these is in top of radiator from water pump & t-stat to out bottom radiator. If the water pump is the case, replace the thermostat also anyway. Check for play on fan clutch bearing/shaft prior to removal
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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I'd say I definitely have some warm air coming out. It took forever though.

So if its water pump then its not pumping through heater core so same hot water can only provide so much heat unless its circulating?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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Did you happen to flush radiator too? or know for sure if radiator looks clear and not caked up at all? coolant should easily show if clean or not... or maybe you can see a few of the top passages in rad for crust
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:15 PM
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heater core hoses are run closer to block to retain better heat for heating system...I can't remember on this motor or not, but some have a little diverter valve to direct coolant differently for more heat.
Impellers or whatever is left on pump run faster and forces coolant to move faster through system even if not much faster. If the thermostat were the case you either over heat or have no heat to vents at all

BUT that only applies to 100 % FULL systems.... you did check level in the Radiator -not reservoir, correct? I'm trying to look up more info in your particular system now...
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:17 PM
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Coolant is a maroon color. Definitely not green. Just took for a 5 minute drive. Heat went away again to barely at all.
I should flush rad. I've had this truck for only a few months.

Flush Rad
Thermostat

Then water pump if needed
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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yeah, maroon is not good... need to make sure all runs pretty clear with a garden hose...

When you installed motor, did it come with a new pump?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:26 PM
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I bought the truck the way it is I don't know about pump. Truck had some definite issues like lights and front springs with factory shackle im front, that I've fixed.
Found some shotty work for sure. I'm very mechanically inclined but this ones stumping me. Been no heat since I got it but now it's the time of year I need it you know.
Wonder if I should get rad flushed at a shop or run a bottle of flush cleaner than drain myself?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 09:29 PM
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O yeah lower rad hose was still cold after my drive
 
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