No heater...wtf
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
it's supposed to come out of top of thermostat to top of rad...out bottom of rad to waterpump...it's normal for bottom hose not to get hot for a while...means rad & fan are doing their job....the heater hoses connect to metal tubes or just water NPT outlets? At this point it's better to drive around a little bit because this will heat coolant up better and circulate it.... you probably still have little air in system which is hard to get out sometimes without driving. Have you driven it yet? Or have you revved it to 2000 RPM for a couple minutes again? Heat all the way up on high
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
I'm gonna install a new water pump.
I blew compressed air through heater core. I can blow through one hose easy with mouth so I don't think this is the problem.
I had both heater hoses off and had my neighbour fire up truck. I watched the waterpump ends. One flowed a steady stream out but just rolled out at not a fast pressure pace. It came to a point were nothing else was coming out. With it still running I opened rad cap, fluid came pouring out again. I feel the gravity push of fluid in rad with cap now off caused it to rush out but a good waterpump should of pulled it out of rad. Just an idea.
Anyways $55 and ill toss in a new one tomorrow.
I blew compressed air through heater core. I can blow through one hose easy with mouth so I don't think this is the problem.
I had both heater hoses off and had my neighbour fire up truck. I watched the waterpump ends. One flowed a steady stream out but just rolled out at not a fast pressure pace. It came to a point were nothing else was coming out. With it still running I opened rad cap, fluid came pouring out again. I feel the gravity push of fluid in rad with cap now off caused it to rush out but a good waterpump should of pulled it out of rad. Just an idea.
Anyways $55 and ill toss in a new one tomorrow.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
wow..... hmmm... doesn't even make sense that it never over heated all this time. With circulation THAT bad it should've been inevitable... thanks for the update, can't wait to see outcome...
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Good thing my time is free. Lol
Jeez this is a big pain in the ***. I really hope its the pump.
Also I did a test with old thermostat. I boiled a cup of water in microwave and put both new and old one in. They both opened up! New one was installed though with spring on engine side.
Also on another note my heater switch only has the high speed working, nothing in between. Not sure what that's all about.
Jeez this is a big pain in the ***. I really hope its the pump.
Also I did a test with old thermostat. I boiled a cup of water in microwave and put both new and old one in. They both opened up! New one was installed though with spring on engine side.
Also on another note my heater switch only has the high speed working, nothing in between. Not sure what that's all about.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
that's probably the blower resistor that's bad... it's located near the blower in engine compartment ...blower harness usually connects straight to it... you take it out it has little coils or springs on inner side, they get corroded or burnt up after years..could be switch too though, but resistor is the more common of the two that go bad
here's a pic: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_fy...it?usp=sharing
here's a pic: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_fy...it?usp=sharing
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
that's probably the blower resistor that's bad... it's located near the blower in engine compartment ...blower harness usually connects straight to it... you take it out it has little coils or springs on inner side, they get corroded or burnt up after years..could be switch too though, but resistor is the more common of the two that go bad
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,119
Likes: 1
From: Hartland, WI
Be careful removing the water pump bolts, a few go through the (aluminum) timing cover before threading into the block. They have a tendency to corrode to the aluminum cover and if you're too rough they can break. Being careful and using heat can make things easier. I (carefully) vibrated the bolts and cover around them with an air hammer (not full blast obviously) to help break the corrosion bond.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Philly, PA USA
+1^^^ good point @blk... and almost impossible to remove broken stud if they do break and then pump won't seal properly
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
I'll be working on a short ladder which is always fun as the truck is lifted on 39.5's. This is one of the lasts on the lists to get everything in order.
Btw here's the truck I'm working on
Btw here's the truck I'm working on
