garden hose is best way to go...after if runs pretty clear that way, you can run a bottle of "flush" to help get rid of deposits or sludge rust build-up. Follow instructions on bottle, most say to run it 30minutes or so at idle. Then of course run hose til clear again.... most shops (that I know of) aren't as thorough. Also saving on labor (if that even matters) and you have the first hand knowledge of how clean system actually is.

You know for sure that is not overheating and no gurgling after rides?

 

Never overheats. It's weird

 

hmmm..... I'm looking at a pic and it looks like there's no diverter valve, and both heater hoses run of left top of water pump if looking at front on....trying to gather little more info but flushing it out sounds like a good idea anyway since it's rusty

 

I'm gonna flush it tomorrow. I'll post back when I figure this out.

 

How hot do those heater hoses get? too hot to hold on too or eh..warmish? I could have a better answer for you

 

So sorry, you already answered this.... so according to my research T-stat is sticking. if this helps any... flow to heater core is on right hose facing firewall...return is hose on left coming out of firewall

 

One definitely tends to be too hot to hold , the other(I assume the out) right side is less hot /but pretty warm.

 

Flush and thermostat is on the list! Hopefully this fixes it.
I'm probably gonna blow compressed air through heater core in the opposite direction of flow. Just watched a youtube vid on it.

 

 

That's weird the opposite hose should be hotter! lol WTH?
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_fy...it?usp=sharing

Note the arrows in hoses

 

Oh yeah! Eric the car guy has GREAT videos! He is one of the few GOOD techs on youtube

 

Sounds like a failed thermostat, stuck open. The truck will eventually warm up some, but with unregulated flow through the radiator it won't reach operating temperature unless it's being worked. Between a thermostat and water pump, the t-stat is the easier and cheaper of the two to change. Start with that and clean coolant. The thermostat should begin to open at 195*, optimum coolant temp is around 200-210.

If the hoses connected to the heater core are switched it doesn't matter, it will still function.

One trick I've seen (and used) to clean a heater core is to disconnect the hoses, take two 2' lengths of heater hose and hook them to the fittings on the heater core. Try to blow out all the coolant and water if possible, then pour CLR into the hoses until they're full. Keep the ends up so the CLR stays in the hoses and the heater core, and let is soak. Flush out with water and air, reconnect. You might be surprised what comes out.

 

Sounds good! Thanks guys

 

So, when I did my own "flush" of the system:

I took the radiator cap off and drained the system using the petcock on the radiator. Once it finished draining, I shut the petcock. Next, I took the thermostat out. Scraped as much gasket material off the water outlet as I could, then re-installed it without the thermostat. Next, I shoved the garden hose down the radiator neck, disconnected the upper radiator hose, turned on the garden hose, and started the engine. I let is run until the upper radiator hose ran clear. I did rev the engine a few times. After it ran clear (about 5 min or so), I shut off the engine, shut off the hose, put the upper radiator hose back, then drained the system again using the radiator petcock. Once drained, close the petcock.

I turned my attention next to the heater core. The 5/8 heater hose is about the same diameter as a garden hose. So, I disconnected both heater hoses, turned on the hose, and (by hand) just put the garden hose up to the heater hose to gently "flush" the heater core. I don't think my heater core is clogged, but the water came out the other end pretty clear and with approximately the same force as the water going in. I then buttoned everything back up (including the thermostat) and re-filled it with anti-freeze.

I did it wrong the first time, I simply re-filled the radiator neck until full. Then went for a drive. Oops. I got the gurgling noise from the heater core. It turns out that I had an airlock. So, I had to go back and address that. See my previous post on how I fixed the airlock.

Even after fixing the airlock, I get heat. Its not that great. I'm not sure how water flow in the heater core is supposed to work. I'm expecting that if its truly clogged, you shouldn't get any output if you put the garden hose to the input. But, I could be wrong. I may replace it at some point.

If you're really hurting for heat, you may try the trick over on the Bronco forum. Apparently you can over-ride the "re-circulate" setting. The blower doesn't draw fresh air in from the outside, so you get a bit more heat. Here's a link to the mod:
a good heating upgrade for our northern friends? - FSB Forums

Conversely, if you want to get more A/C in the summer, you can install a valve to cut off water flow to the heater core:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ooler-a-c.html

 

What is the direction of flow?
New thermostat in. Running a flush now. Lower hose will not get warm!!!
Engine temp gauge reads normal just below middle. Gauge seems to work as I watched it rise. Some warm heat after a LONG time running!