On my 2000 Expedition 4x4 5.4L XLT I have a howling noise coming from the rear of the truck, I think I found the problem. I took off the rear wheels and noticed that the passenger side rear there seems to be a leak by the lug nut studs and it smells like gear oil. So I take it that the wheel bearings and seals have to replaced?
First question I have the Haynes manual and it doesnt look that bad of a job.
How hard and long would this take to do? Any tips? I think all that I would need tool wise is a bearing puller.
I have 3:55 Limited Slip.
Also I was going to buy Timken bearings what do you think, I would be buying from Rockauto. What brand seals should I buy....also I should do both sides? I also was going to use Lucas gear oil 75W140.
Thanks....Gage

 

It's very straight forward. It took me 4 hrs including changing the axle oil, beer drinking, BS and watching college footballs. In theory for the tools, you also would need a bearing driver and a seal driver to install bearing and seal properly, but I saw some people improvised to achieve the same result. A sliding hammer is the most needed tool to remove the bearing and seal at the same time (per Ford). I'd stick with Timken and use whatever oil brand that meets Ford spec because you don't have to change axle oil for another 100K. I'd replace bearings and seals for both sides at the same time. Don't forget a hand pump to fill the axle oil into the differential.

 

...and friction modifier.

 

I replaced mine last weekend. I used repair bearings rather than going with standard replacement bearings. They relocate the bearing and seal on the axle to a fresh spot in case of any wear you may find when you get in there. I wouldn't pull the seal and bearing simultaneously. The seal can be popped out relatively easily by itself, but the bearing can be a bear without adding any extra resistance to it.

 

Since you have LS axle, I'm pretty sure you need to pull off the diff cover and pull out the clutch assemblies, remove the axle clips before being able to remove your axles. At least you have to do this with the 3.73 rear ends.
Check both sides as these seals go bad regularly. I would change both, once in there, cause you know the other side will go shortly thereafter if not already.
You tube has some videos for reference.
Pretty straight forward. Use a slide hammer as suggested to save some possible aggravation.

 

Shouldn't be any need to remove the clutch assemblies. Mine is LS. Remove the diff cover, remove the little bolt that retains the pin that crosses the center of the carrier, remove said pin, push the axle shafts in, and remove the c-clips.

 

Thanks for the help and tips everyone....
I was looking at the slide hammer...What brand should I get???
Also I found this....How to replace rear axle seals and bearings in your 04+ F150 (lots of pics) - F150online Forums
I take it this is the same process for an Expedition?
Also some one told me that I might have to remove the Limited Slip if its a solid unit?
Thanks....Gage

 

Thanks....I was going to ask about the Repair Bearings.....I think Timken makes them too.
...Gage

 

Transmission in neutral to spin the wheels when necessary.

NAPA sells the small bolt. I recall there being a recommendation against reusing the old one.

Also a good idea to try to remove the fill plug before draining the differential.
You wouldn't want to find that it's frozen once the diff is empty.

 

I was looking for the part number for that small bolt for the differential...I think its called "Differential Shaft Lock Bolt"
I went on Napas site and they only have the one for the 8.8" differential.
Thanks....
ALSO should I use the repair bearings? I was going to but Timken brand.

 

Try searching "Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt".

Can't speak for repair bearings. The bearings on my '01 were OK when I replaced the leaky seals and did the gear oil change.

 

Be careful when you go to buy bearings. Some of the F150s had 9.75 chunks with 8.8 axles and bearings. My Expy was 9.75 all the way out. You can tell by looking at the end of the axle tubes by the wheel backing plates. If the tube goes straight in with no taper, you're good. If it tapers down to a smaller tube then the standard issue 9.75 bearings and seals (or repair bearings) won't work. To be honest, I'd go with the repair bearings if you can. If the old seal hardened up, it could've cut a groove in the shaft just enough that a new seal won't be able to do it's job.

 

Did this resolve the noise problem? Was there any difficulty you ran into?