Hell out there never posted before but ai am going to give it a try. I have a 1999 expy with 130000 on the speedo and i just developed a vibration all the time. so I took off the rear wheels and noticed on the drivers side was wet so the ford stealership told me that I needed a rear seal and bearing. I was wondering can anyone tell me how to change the rear bearing and seal. MY EXPY IS IN PARTS FROM THE REAR BACK :-) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thaks to all

 

Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal

Special Tool(s) Adapter for 303-224 (Handle)
205-153 (T80T-4000-W)
Installer, Rear Axle Differential Bearing
205-382 (T97T-1225-A)
Installer, Rear Axle Oil Seal
205-381 (T97T-1177-A)
Remover, Axle Bearing
205-224 (T85T-1225-AH)
Slide Hammer
100-001 (T50T-100-A)

Removal

Remove the axle shaft
CAUTION: Never remove the wheel bearing oil seal (1177) by itself. Always remove the wheel bearing oil seal and the rear wheel bearing (1225) at the same time.

NOTE: If the wheel bearing oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with foreign material.

Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal.

Installation

Lubricate the new rear axle bearing.
Use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
Using the special tools, install the rear wheel bearing.

Lubricate the lip of the new wheel bearing oil seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Using the special tools, install the wheel bearing oil seal.

Install the axle shaft. For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.


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There are a lot of threads regarding the matter, you'll find a lot of info if you search 'rear axle seal'.

A couple of pit falls that I encountered and some tips:
1. if you wish to replace the locking bolt in the differential (you'll find out what it is when you search), get the part from the dealer, the NAPA part I got is wrong, their soft catalog, both on-line and in-store are wrong.

2. Do not use non-hardening sealant, they will likely leak (i.e. Permatex gold is non-hardening, permatex super-black is and what worked for me.)

3. If you will diy, do it with an assistant, you will save a lot of time.

4. Check to see if the rubber hose vent on the driver side of the diff is not clogged (a tip I got from this forum).

5. Make sure to apply a little oil on the new seal before sliding the axle back.
(I think I got this tip from here as well).

You may want to invest on Haynes book, just to be more familiar with the matter.

You will probably replace the diff oil, so you will need the additive from the dealer. Whether to replace the bearing (and the axle) is your call upon inspection of the axle and the bearings when you have the axle out, I didn't need to replace mine.

The vibration may be a whole other issue. It could be tires, differential clutch pack (if LSD), transmission issue, etc. I had that issue and it was tires for me - I initially installed new tires in front only and discovered that bad tires, even on rears casued vibration on this vehicle (front wheel drive cars normally are not as touchy on rear tires from my experience - but not our XP's)

Hope this helps.
- OrleeC

 

I can't seem to get the axle off to even get the bearing off someone suggested that I need a slide hammer and nobody rent those up in my area. If this is true I might have to use the stealership (dealership). Any info on how to get the shaft off would be great.

PS thanks for the timely response!!!!!!

 

Did you take the C-clip off the (inside) end of the axle?

 

I can't seem to find the C-clip where is that located

 

inside the differential..better go buy a book!

 

diff cover is off and the pin is out as well

 

Have someone slide the axle in towards the differential. You may have to turn the rear wheels to see how the c-clip is positioned.

 

everything is off and one of the plates on the clutch pack plate was broken going to check the other side since I have it apart. Does anyone know where I could get them from instead of the dealership!!! Autozone or advance auto parts does not carry or they cannot not order them. Thanks

 

I got mine at the dealership, $110 or so. I don't know of any alternatives. The fun is just beginning. You've got to compress the 'spring' while you roll the spider gars back in.

I don't mean to discourage but the axle bearing was one thing, rebuilding the diff is another.

 

I got the new clutch set today but its the new improved version. It is different from the one thats on there now What order do they go in can you tell me cause the dealer that I got it from will not. I don't want to do this again in the near future....

Thanks..

 

I guess I was lucky not to have a broken clutch pack. FYI, I browsed and the Haynes book does not have clutch pack repair topic. You may want to search the forum about the subject before proceeding - somebody may have done it before and discussed it.

It's seems your vibration issue was in fact caused by the broken clutch pack. I'm curious if it's okay to have an old-style clutch pack on one side and the newer design on the other (I'm under the impression that there's one for each side).

Good luck,

- OrleeC

 

Yes it is and it comes in box so you have to figure out how it goes together because there are no instructions. Its a total of seventeen pieces

 

how do you compress the spring to get the spider gear in I have do the clutch pack but I can not get the spider gear back is for the life of me!!!!

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!