Brake Bleeding Procedure
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
I think it's the three prong, but I can't remember for sure.
I'll go run outside and look at my master brake cylinder rez cap really quick and post back in a minute.
Stewart
Edit: Ok, I was right, it's a three prong.
I'll go run outside and look at my master brake cylinder rez cap really quick and post back in a minute.
Stewart
Edit: Ok, I was right, it's a three prong.
Last edited by Stewart_H; Jun 23, 2014 at 04:48 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Stewart
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 24
From: Mount Royal, NJ
Yup, and I just bought one from Jegs.
Getting ready to do maintenance on the fleet.
Mods are always in December, but probably not that much this year. The non existent inflation is eating my money away. New Jersey sucks.
Getting ready to do maintenance on the fleet.
Mods are always in December, but probably not that much this year. The non existent inflation is eating my money away. New Jersey sucks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 11
From: Danbury, CT
For the brake flush the dealer recommended a little over a quart and sold me 3 bottles of Motorcraft fluid (355mL/ea). He said he would sell me as much fluid as I wanted but that 1 quart is all it would take. I'm probably going to be way more liberal with the flush than the experienced techs at the dealer. I'm sure I'll be back for another 6 bottles...
Guess I should really call these things cans...but they sure as heck look more like short neck bottles.
Guess I should really call these things cans...but they sure as heck look more like short neck bottles.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
There's a school of thought on the Internet that a scan tool is needed to properly bleed the brakes to remove air from the lines and the anti-lock HCU. This is not entirely correct.
On a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes, "This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU."
That's straight from the Ford factory technician database website.
Regular brake bleeding procedures won't hurt the ABS pump either, because the proper procedure is to bleed the system first, then connect the tool via the OBD II port, then repeat the system bleed.
Here are the directions from the Ford website:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
The procedure below only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As you can see, no mention of a damaged ABS pump is mentioned if a procedure isn't followed while bleeding the system. It's not addressed because it's safe to do so.
So unless a person has replaced their Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), which the OP didn't do, or the HCU has malfunctioned or is damaged somehow, allowing air to enter the system, activating the ABS system to bleed it is unnecessary.
Stewart
On a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes, "This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU."
That's straight from the Ford factory technician database website.
Regular brake bleeding procedures won't hurt the ABS pump either, because the proper procedure is to bleed the system first, then connect the tool via the OBD II port, then repeat the system bleed.
Here are the directions from the Ford website:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
- Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap, and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.
- Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.
- With the RH rear bleeder screw open, cycle the brake pedal until no more air is seen in the waste line.
- Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.
- Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.
The procedure below only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
- Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash, and follow the scan tool instructions.
- Repeat the system bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.
- NOTE: It is not necessary to do a complete brake system bleed if only the disc brake caliper was disconnected.
Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As you can see, no mention of a damaged ABS pump is mentioned if a procedure isn't followed while bleeding the system. It's not addressed because it's safe to do so.
So unless a person has replaced their Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), which the OP didn't do, or the HCU has malfunctioned or is damaged somehow, allowing air to enter the system, activating the ABS system to bleed it is unnecessary.
Stewart
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Cross-Country
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 66
Likes: 28
From: Southern California
I hope you guys don't mind me appending onto this 5 year old tread, but I've been searching for over an hour, and this is the most pertinent I've found.
I have a 1999 Super Duty with Rear Antilock only. (No front speed sensors). I had a rear steel brake line rust out, and by the time I got the truck home and on the hoist, the rear system was empty. So there was air in everything, including the ABS. I bled the system with my Motive. I had a solid stream, no air, at the rear bleeders. I did the fronts too to renew the fluid. No air there either. The pedal felt great until I fired it up. Pedal is spongy, bouncy, the hydro boost is noisy, there is definitely still air in it, probably the rear circuit.
Do I need to do the Scan Tool bleed procedure for a Rear Antilock ONLY system? I can borrow a scanner, but is there any way to cycle the Anti Lock without a scanner?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
I have a 1999 Super Duty with Rear Antilock only. (No front speed sensors). I had a rear steel brake line rust out, and by the time I got the truck home and on the hoist, the rear system was empty. So there was air in everything, including the ABS. I bled the system with my Motive. I had a solid stream, no air, at the rear bleeders. I did the fronts too to renew the fluid. No air there either. The pedal felt great until I fired it up. Pedal is spongy, bouncy, the hydro boost is noisy, there is definitely still air in it, probably the rear circuit.
Do I need to do the Scan Tool bleed procedure for a Rear Antilock ONLY system? I can borrow a scanner, but is there any way to cycle the Anti Lock without a scanner?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
I hope you guys don't mind me appending onto this 5 year old tread, but I've been searching for over an hour, and this is the most pertinent I've found.
I have a 1999 Super Duty with Rear Antilock only. (No front speed sensors). I had a rear steel brake line rust out, and by the time I got the truck home and on the hoist, the rear system was empty. So there was air in everything, including the ABS. I bled the system with my Motive. I had a solid stream, no air, at the rear bleeders. I did the fronts too to renew the fluid. No air there either. The pedal felt great until I fired it up. Pedal is spongy, bouncy, the hydro boost is noisy, there is definitely still air in it, probably the rear circuit.
Do I need to do the Scan Tool bleed procedure for a Rear Antilock ONLY system? I can borrow a scanner, but is there any way to cycle the Anti Lock without a scanner?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
I have a 1999 Super Duty with Rear Antilock only. (No front speed sensors). I had a rear steel brake line rust out, and by the time I got the truck home and on the hoist, the rear system was empty. So there was air in everything, including the ABS. I bled the system with my Motive. I had a solid stream, no air, at the rear bleeders. I did the fronts too to renew the fluid. No air there either. The pedal felt great until I fired it up. Pedal is spongy, bouncy, the hydro boost is noisy, there is definitely still air in it, probably the rear circuit.
Do I need to do the Scan Tool bleed procedure for a Rear Antilock ONLY system? I can borrow a scanner, but is there any way to cycle the Anti Lock without a scanner?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
I've never had to use a scan tool to bleed brakes.
Cross-Country
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 66
Likes: 28
From: Southern California
I just got in from my test drive. Everything is normal again, even the rear antilock functions.
I had the rear tires elevated, put it in D2, ran it up to 20 MPH, and applied the brakes hard enough to feel and hear the antilock engage until the tires stopped. I did this about 4 times, and bled the rears again with the Motive Pressure Bleeder. There really wasn't much, if any air, but I did this 3 more times until I'd put about a pint through the rears, and then flushed the fronts with the remainder of my quart. The brakes feel like they always have (I've owned it 9 years), so I'm happy.
It probably isn't necessary to do anything with the rear-only antilock, but this is what worked for me.
Thanks, FTE.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
There's a school of thought on the Internet that a scan tool is needed to properly bleed the brakes to remove air from the lines and the anti-lock HCU. This is not entirely correct.
On a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes, "This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU."
That's straight from the Ford factory technician database website.
Regular brake bleeding procedures won't hurt the ABS pump either, because the proper procedure is to bleed the system first, then connect the tool via the OBD II port, then repeat the system bleed.
Here are the directions from the Ford website:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
The procedure below only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As you can see, no mention of a damaged ABS pump is mentioned if a procedure isn't followed while bleeding the system. It's not addressed because it's safe to do so.
So unless a person has replaced their Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), which the OP didn't do, or the HCU has malfunctioned or is damaged somehow, allowing air to enter the system, activating the ABS system to bleed it is unnecessary.
Stewart
On a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes, "This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU."
That's straight from the Ford factory technician database website.
Regular brake bleeding procedures won't hurt the ABS pump either, because the proper procedure is to bleed the system first, then connect the tool via the OBD II port, then repeat the system bleed.
Here are the directions from the Ford website:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
- Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap, and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.
- Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.
- With the RH rear bleeder screw open, cycle the brake pedal until no more air is seen in the waste line.
- Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.
- Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.
The procedure below only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
- Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash, and follow the scan tool instructions.
- Repeat the system bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.
- NOTE: It is not necessary to do a complete brake system bleed if only the disc brake caliper was disconnected.
Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As you can see, no mention of a damaged ABS pump is mentioned if a procedure isn't followed while bleeding the system. It's not addressed because it's safe to do so.
So unless a person has replaced their Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), which the OP didn't do, or the HCU has malfunctioned or is damaged somehow, allowing air to enter the system, activating the ABS system to bleed it is unnecessary.
Stewart
Appreciate the details on brake bleeding, how ever one question, should you have the vehicle running when doing tihs?
i have been told you can do it either way, just want to do this the correct way .
thanks.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
elvis64505
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
2
Feb 19, 2013 10:54 PM
newtattoobob
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
2
Aug 29, 2002 08:03 AM