Flushing Brake Fluid
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Chino, California
Flushing Brake Fluid
I'm planning on flushing out my brake lines and brake reservoir. I just read a thread from the SD forum you need some fancy machine to bleed the lines?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...50-5-4-v8.html
I was going to request assistance from my brother in law to pump the brake pedal while I crack the bleeder and use 3/8" vinyl tubing over the nipple and into a bottle to catch the fluid. Make sure the level in the reservoir doesn't get too low by filling in fresh fluid as we pump. This is the way I've done it to my other vehicles. Can't see why this is any different as long as I don't let air get sucked back in?
Am I missing something?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...50-5-4-v8.html
I was going to request assistance from my brother in law to pump the brake pedal while I crack the bleeder and use 3/8" vinyl tubing over the nipple and into a bottle to catch the fluid. Make sure the level in the reservoir doesn't get too low by filling in fresh fluid as we pump. This is the way I've done it to my other vehicles. Can't see why this is any different as long as I don't let air get sucked back in?
Am I missing something?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
Did this very same thing a few weeks ago...
Used my Mityvac and had a buddy pump the brakes while I collected the fluid. Once you start getting clean fluid, have them mash the pedal down and reseal the bleeder.
Not hard to do, just takes time....
Your truck stops SOOOO much better too
Used my Mityvac and had a buddy pump the brakes while I collected the fluid. Once you start getting clean fluid, have them mash the pedal down and reseal the bleeder.
Not hard to do, just takes time....
Your truck stops SOOOO much better too
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
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From: Central Coast of CA
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8534563
Stewart,
You must use a scan gauge to properly bleed the brakes if you have ant1-lock brakes. If the pump is not open on the wheel you are bleeding you might as well be whisteling in the wind.
Check this out futher, as you might damage the ABS pump.
You must use a scan gauge to properly bleed the brakes if you have ant1-lock brakes. If the pump is not open on the wheel you are bleeding you might as well be whisteling in the wind.
Check this out futher, as you might damage the ABS pump.
On vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes, "This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU."
That's straight from the Ford factory technician database website.
And regular brake bleeding procedures won't hurt the ABS pump because the proper procedure is to bleed the system first, then connect the tool via the OBD II port, then repeat the system bleed.
Here are the directions from the Ford website:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.
- Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap, and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.
- Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.
- With the RH rear bleeder screw open, cycle the brake pedal until no more air is seen in the waste line.
- Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.
- Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.
- Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash, and follow the scan tool instructions.
- Repeat the system bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.
- NOTE: It is not necessary to do a complete brake system bleed if only the disc brake caliper was disconnected.
Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As you can see, no mention of a damaged ABS pump is mentioned if a procedure isn't followed while bleeding the system. It's not addressed because it's safe to do so.
So unless a person has replaced their Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), which the OP didn't do, or the HCU has malfunctioned or is damaged somehow, allowing air to enter the system, activating the ABS system to bleed it is unnecessary.
Stewart
Stewart
PS - I just added this to the Excursion Forum tech folder.
Last edited by Stewart_H; Feb 12, 2013 at 11:27 AM.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
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From: Central Coast of CA
As for the actual bleeding, buying the Motive Brake Bleeder was a smart move for me. It's paid for itself in convenience many times over.
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; Feb 12, 2013 at 07:29 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,885
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From: Chino, California
Thanks everyone for the replies. I feel better now knowing that this job is no different than what I've done in the past. Now gotta remember the sequence which wheel first. I believe it is the one closest to the MC. Bleeding was the opposite, if I recalled correctly.
Edit: Oh duh. It's in Stewart's post earlier.
Edit: Oh duh. It's in Stewart's post earlier.
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if you are flushing the brake system, you need to activate the abs valves (with a scan tool) or you are just pissing in the wind. the whole idea of flushing the hydraulic system is to remove moisture and old fluid to protect that expensive system. if you don't activate the abs valves, you won't get a thorough fluid flush.
DOE
DOE
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From: Central Coast of CA
if you are flushing the brake system, you need to activate the abs valves (with a scan tool) or you are just pissing in the wind. the whole idea of flushing the hydraulic system is to remove moisture and old fluid to protect that expensive system. if you don't activate the abs valves, you won't get a thorough fluid flush.
DOE
DOE
That's like saying unless you remove all the oil from the engine when you do an oil change, you're just pissing in the wind.
Or it's like that YouTube Powerstroke help doofus who insists the oil in the HPOP reservoir needs to be changed when a person changes the oil in his 7.3L PSD.
Would it be ideal to get as much of the old fluid out as possible? Sure!! But is it akin to useless (the aforementioned "pissing in the wind") if you don't? HARDLY.
Stewart
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From: Pacific Northwest
Wrong.
That's like saying unless you remove all the oil from the engine when you do an oil change, you're just pissing in the wind.
not at all, engine oil is not hydroscopic like brake fluid. different situation altogether.
Or it's like that YouTube Powerstroke help doofus who insists the oil in the HPOP reservoir needs to be changed when a person changes the oil in his 7.3L PSD.
Would it be ideal to get as much of the old fluid out as possible? Sure!! But is it akin to useless (the aforementioned "pissing in the wind") if you don't? HARDLY.
you would think differently if you had to pay to replace an abs valve destroyed by water infiltration.
Stewart
That's like saying unless you remove all the oil from the engine when you do an oil change, you're just pissing in the wind.
not at all, engine oil is not hydroscopic like brake fluid. different situation altogether.
Or it's like that YouTube Powerstroke help doofus who insists the oil in the HPOP reservoir needs to be changed when a person changes the oil in his 7.3L PSD.
Would it be ideal to get as much of the old fluid out as possible? Sure!! But is it akin to useless (the aforementioned "pissing in the wind") if you don't? HARDLY.
you would think differently if you had to pay to replace an abs valve destroyed by water infiltration.
Stewart
DOE
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From: Central Coast of CA
You're posting bad information. Straight and simple, this is how internet say-so, wives tales, and "because I heard it on the internet, so it's gotta be true" get's started.
Explain to me how the little bit of fluid you can't replace will ruin all the fresh, new fluid you can replace in the system and reservoir.
Explain to me why the Ford procedure I posted above doesn't recommend using a scan tool to ALWAYS activate the ABS system when bleeding the brakes, instead of only when the HCU gets replaced or when air is suspected to be in the ABS HCU.
Please back up your assertion with facts, like I did.
Stewart
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Pacific Northwest
It's not believing what I want. It's knowing what I know.
You're posting bad information. Straight and simple, this is how internet say-so, wives tales, and "because I heard it on the internet, so it's gotta be true" get's started.
Explain to me how the little bit of fluid you can't replace will ruin all the fresh, new fluid you can replace in the system and reservoir.
Explain to me why the Ford procedure I posted above doesn't recommend using a scan tool to ALWAYS activate the ABS system when bleeding the brakes, instead of only when the HCU gets replaced or when air is suspected to be in the ABS HCU.
Please back up your assertion with facts, like I did.
Stewart
You're posting bad information. Straight and simple, this is how internet say-so, wives tales, and "because I heard it on the internet, so it's gotta be true" get's started.
Explain to me how the little bit of fluid you can't replace will ruin all the fresh, new fluid you can replace in the system and reservoir.
Explain to me why the Ford procedure I posted above doesn't recommend using a scan tool to ALWAYS activate the ABS system when bleeding the brakes, instead of only when the HCU gets replaced or when air is suspected to be in the ABS HCU.
Please back up your assertion with facts, like I did.
Stewart
the alterative would be to do a regular bleed and go find some loose gravel where you can induce an "abs event" to circulate the fluid as is outlined here...
Ford Specialists.com - Ford Performance Specialists
and then do another regular bleed to remove the remaining old fluid.
DOE
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From: Central Coast of CA
it's not the cost of the fluid, it is the cost of replacing the abs components you just wrote off. the whole idea of replacing (all) the brake fluid is to prevent damage to the extremely expensive abs components. if you are just replacing a caliper, there is no real need to completely flush the entire system. however if you are intent on protecting your brake system with regular (like every other year) fluid flushing, you need to activate the abs valves or you are just wasting your time and $12 worth of brake fluid. don't forget that brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is it literally sucks moisture out of the air. have you priced an abs valve lately?
the alterative would be to do a regular bleed and go find some loose gravel where you can induce an "abs event" to circulate the fluid as is outlined here...
Ford Specialists.com - Ford Performance Specialists
and then do another regular bleed to remove the remaining old fluid.
DOE
the alterative would be to do a regular bleed and go find some loose gravel where you can induce an "abs event" to circulate the fluid as is outlined here...
Ford Specialists.com - Ford Performance Specialists
and then do another regular bleed to remove the remaining old fluid.
DOE
THAT is the point I have a problem with.
You have to remember, the ABS HCU is a sealed system, unlike the rest of the brake system, which is exposed to atmosphere. So it doesn't absorb water from the air like the rest of the system.
Also, just FYI, it isn't "hydroscopic" its "hygroscopic."
I made the same mistake for years until one of the members here let me know.
Stewart
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 315
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From: Pacific Northwest
Only under certain conditions, like John posted.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8534563
Hope that helps.
Stewart
PS - I just added this to the Excursion Forum tech folder.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8534563
Hope that helps.
Stewart
PS - I just added this to the Excursion Forum tech folder.
this is the part where you activate the abs valve during bleeding to flush the old fluid and any accumulated water from the valve.
DOE