I had one stuck caliper and one very leaky caliper so I replaced all 4 calipers and pads today. I have bled 2 quarts of brake fluid through the system and still have a super mushy pedal that goes almost to the floor. I bled the brakes conventionally, with a helper pushing the pedal while I bled the right rear, left real, right front, and left front brakes, in that order, twice. I don't seem to be getting any air from the bleeders but my pedal is way soft.

Am I missing something? Is there a way to bleed the ABS system? That is the only thing I'm not sure about.

My truck is out of service until I can get this resolved. Please help!

 

You do NOT need to bleed the ABS system unless you replaced the 4-wheel anti-lock brake hydraulic control unit, or if you suspect air is in the HCU.

Follow this step-by-step and see if this procedure, especially the step in BOLD BLUE doesn't solve your problem.

Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
NOTE: This procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.

1. Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap, and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

1. Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.

1. With the RH rear bleeder screw open, cycle the brake pedal until no more air is seen in the waste line.

1. Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.

1. Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.

This following step only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been replaced or if air is suspected in the HCU.

1. Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash, and follow the scan tool instructions.

1. Repeat the system bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.

Caliper

1. NOTE: It is not necessary to do a complete brake system bleed if only the disc brake caliper was disconnected.

Place a box end wrench on the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
Have an assistant pump the brake pedal (BP) (2B222) and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Refer to Specifications.

More info: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8534563

In the above thread, post number 16, that step I highlighted in blue solved 7475ih's problem.

Stewart

 

On a slightly related note, any idea how much fluid the whole system holds? I was changing the fluid last summer and it went through a couple quarts and I still wasn't 100% satisfied I was getting fresh fluid all the way to the back.

 

Calipers installed on the correct sides? Bleeder screw should be on the top.

 

Yes, the calipers are installed correctly.

Stewart, I don't follow, are you saying I can bleed the ABS without the scan tool? I don't have a scan tool, so I may end up taking it to a shop to get bled if I can't get this figured out.

 

I never seem to have any one around to help me bleed the brakes so I use the pneumatic brake fluid bleeder available from harbor freight.

 

If you didn't clamp the soft lines when the calipers were replaced then you will still have air in the system. It's pretty amazing how much air can get sucked back in during the short amount of time the line is disconnected. I use a Motive Power Bleeder at the shop and have had the best results with it. When I did a complete flush on mine it took 2 quarts to get the complete color change. The color change was a result of using ATE Super Blue so you can see the blue change over from amber/clear. While the ABS pump may not have been opened it will still be a good idea to have it bled using a scan tool. It's an extremely easy operation and on my Solus Ultra it takes longer to input the vehicle type than to bleed the pump.

The Motive bleeder can be found here: Motive Products

Stacey David on Gearz has been promoting the Phoenix reverse bleeder where it pushes the fluid up from each corner. Never tried it but he sure likes it (or gets paid to like it....)

 

Try bleeding it in reverse order. That should reset the proportioning valve if it is tripped.

 

I bought the Harbor Freight pressure bleeder today. If that doesnt do the trick, I have an appt at my local shop tomorrow morning. Thanks for the advice!

 

No, I'm saying you don't NEED to bleed the ABS.

Please see step two above.

Here, I'll isolate it for you.

Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.

• With the RH rear bleeder screw open, cycle the brake pedal until no more air is seen in the waste line.
  
• Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.
  
• Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.

As I pointed out in the other brake thread I linked you too, that step is what solved another users brake issues.

Try bleeding your brakes exactly as directed in that step and see if it solves your problems, before you spend your hard earned money by having a shop solve your problem.

Stewart

 

Thank you for your advice. I will try this method again before I give up. This is the standard method for bleeding that I have always used, which is why I was unclear in your meaning. I am puzzled as to why this method has not succeded by now...I think I did let the MC run dry while i was swapping parts (oops) so I assumed that air would be in the system.

I am an old school guy. I finally gave up on old pre-electronic vehicles (as daily drivers) when they just became too unreliable for me, but I do have an appreciation for simplicity, which is one reason I like my X...it is relatively simple in a world of ever more complicated vehicles. Still, some aspects are foreign to me. Maybe I am making it more complicated than it is.

 

Not a good sign if the master cylinder ran dry. That could really fill the system up with air. I believe it is recommended to bench bleed a master cylinder when it is goes dry. I'll let others chime in to confirm.

The trick and key point in the bleeding process is for the bleed tube to be submerged into a small container of fluid. It needs to stay submerged during the entire bleeding proces.

 

i too im having trouble with my 2000 f250 4x4 7.3
i have done all the bleeding the way you are all talking about and still nothing as far as a good brake pedal totaly lost so i got a chilton as was reading and says i need a scanner to bleed the air out of the abs my truck has RABS so i have a SOLUS PRO SCAN TOOL when bring up my truck
all it has on it is the 4wheel abs funition opition not for the rabs

what do you thing is going on there ?????????