20O3 question for you. Mostly Engine....Update....
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
20O3 question for you. Mostly Engine....Update....
Here is the scoop My friend has an 03 F250 4X4 extended cab
EGR delete No cat resent turbo
1st
What would cause a clunk in the left front when going over bump at speed?
I need some ideas on what I should be looking for.
2nd
I did a quick scan and clear of codes to remove the EGR codes.I did a bad thing
and did not write then down. I did see a cyl 1 contribution code and a pair of
glow plug codes. Cleared and ran the KOEO got a cyl 1 low.
He had to get off to a dinner and will come back later. What should I be looking for?
I did a quick battery voltage test and got 12.7 V. I did not have the FICM stuff programed
into my SGII. I will do that tonight before he comes back.
So being an 03 would I be looking at a 7 screw or a 4 screw FICM?
Any thing you can point out for the next visit.
BTW he was over to help me deal with a Rabbit problem. That will be dinner in a short bit.
Sean
P.S. When he comes back over I will save the codes I get after he drives it a little.
EGR delete No cat resent turbo
1st
What would cause a clunk in the left front when going over bump at speed?
I need some ideas on what I should be looking for.
2nd
I did a quick scan and clear of codes to remove the EGR codes.I did a bad thing
and did not write then down. I did see a cyl 1 contribution code and a pair of
glow plug codes. Cleared and ran the KOEO got a cyl 1 low.
He had to get off to a dinner and will come back later. What should I be looking for?
I did a quick battery voltage test and got 12.7 V. I did not have the FICM stuff programed
into my SGII. I will do that tonight before he comes back.
So being an 03 would I be looking at a 7 screw or a 4 screw FICM?
Any thing you can point out for the next visit.
BTW he was over to help me deal with a Rabbit problem. That will be dinner in a short bit.
Sean
P.S. When he comes back over I will save the codes I get after he drives it a little.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
Hey Sean, on item #1 I would think either ball joints or stabilizer bar links. Don't think wheel bearings would be the cause unless totally trashed and there would be other signs then.
Item #2 if I recall the early 04 and 03's had the 7 pin and the 05's and up were 4 pins.
Item #2 if I recall the early 04 and 03's had the 7 pin and the 05's and up were 4 pins.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Thanks
If it is a FICM can I use my backup one for testing it's a 4 pin?
One of the things I am dealing with is I am not driving it.
He dose need to clean the batteries.
I left him a message to see if he has a us spring in.
Just have to wait and see.
Sean
If it is a FICM can I use my backup one for testing it's a 4 pin?
One of the things I am dealing with is I am not driving it.
He dose need to clean the batteries.
I left him a message to see if he has a us spring in.
Just have to wait and see.
Sean
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Hey Sean, is the truck running badly? As you know already the contrabution/balance code has a good chance of being injector. (Duhh 
)
Here's a bit of info that may be helpful, with all the toys..I mean tools you have I'm sure you have an inductive ammeter in you box .
Install an inductive ammeter on one bank at one of the two harnesses at the Glow Plug Controller Module (GPCM). You can get up to 200 A at first, but then should stabilize around 35-45 A. Check the other bank with the inductive ammeter. Both sides should read the same. If not, check the amps to each individual glow plug to determine which one (or ones) is bad. Each glow plug should draw 10-12 Amps. Each GP should Read between 0.5 and 2.0 ohms.
)Here's a bit of info that may be helpful, with all the toys..I mean tools you have I'm sure you have an inductive ammeter in you box .
Install an inductive ammeter on one bank at one of the two harnesses at the Glow Plug Controller Module (GPCM). You can get up to 200 A at first, but then should stabilize around 35-45 A. Check the other bank with the inductive ammeter. Both sides should read the same. If not, check the amps to each individual glow plug to determine which one (or ones) is bad. Each glow plug should draw 10-12 Amps. Each GP should Read between 0.5 and 2.0 ohms.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
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From: Spanaway
He said that he gets a black puff at start up. As you well know we tried to get it
to give us a puff and it did not this time just because it KNEW I was watching it.
Other then that it is running well.
I am going to have it here for a few hours because he has a parking brake problem
and I need to pull the rear wheels and rotors so it will have time to cool so I can
check it. What happened is one day he put the brake on like always and there was a pop
and the peddle went down easy and no parking brake. I put the brake on and was
able to really pull down on the cable before I could see the backing plate levers stop
moving. What I am thinking is the shoes are shot. I will check when I get the rotors off.
The one problem I will have to deal with is I can't get a complete self diagnosis
to run because of the way the EGR delete was done. The program halts at that
error. I need to see if he even has the valve. If not I tell him to ask the shop that
did the work to loan/give him a valve for this test.
Speaking of did the 2003 need the valve to make the fan work right?
Thanks for the input Rusty
Sean
to give us a puff and it did not this time just because it KNEW I was watching it.
Other then that it is running well.
I am going to have it here for a few hours because he has a parking brake problem
and I need to pull the rear wheels and rotors so it will have time to cool so I can
check it. What happened is one day he put the brake on like always and there was a pop
and the peddle went down easy and no parking brake. I put the brake on and was
able to really pull down on the cable before I could see the backing plate levers stop
moving. What I am thinking is the shoes are shot. I will check when I get the rotors off.
The one problem I will have to deal with is I can't get a complete self diagnosis
to run because of the way the EGR delete was done. The program halts at that
error. I need to see if he even has the valve. If not I tell him to ask the shop that
did the work to loan/give him a valve for this test.
Speaking of did the 2003 need the valve to make the fan work right?
Thanks for the input Rusty
Sean
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
I think the 2003's didn't set a CEL if the EGR was unplugged IF the flash hasn't been updated but the missing info from the EGR valve still messes with the fan operation.
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Certified Thread Hijacker
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One thing I have noticed is smoke from the tailpipe (especially a puff) looks a lot worse than it really is if you're watching from outside the truck.
Josh
Josh
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I just fixed a clunk when I hit bumps in mine
it was the leaf spring bushing
The REAR Mounts On the FRont Leafs
I could see the Rubber Bushing pushing out of there
Here the bad one below Pic I Pulled it right out By Hand
the rest I had to Press out
Check it out its Easy
it was the leaf spring bushing
The REAR Mounts On the FRont Leafs
I could see the Rubber Bushing pushing out of there
Here the bad one below Pic I Pulled it right out By Hand
the rest I had to Press out
Check it out its Easy
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
A 2003 with a California flash will set a CEL for the EGR.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
FICM's don't matter. If you have a working one then slap it in his truck.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Well we found the clunk.
Tie rod end is shot.
And NoEGR valve plugged in. So I'll have him find one.
And on top of this I come home with the ABS light on and
it was the stupid right side sensor AGAIN
Last time I cleaned the plug and it went away. So I am
thinking that maybe a bad wire into the plug. Time to dig
Sean
Tie rod end is shot.
And NoEGR valve plugged in. So I'll have him find one.
And on top of this I come home with the ABS light on and
it was the stupid right side sensor AGAIN
Last time I cleaned the plug and it went away. So I am
thinking that maybe a bad wire into the plug. Time to dig
Sean
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