I have a no start issue. Took my boy to soccer practice, truck was running fine, drove 1/2 mile or so to get a sandwich, shut off truck. Started fine and went about 100 yards to a pizza place, shut off and a few minutes later, no start.

I have noticed a little longer cranking but nothing bad. Truck was cranking good but no start. You can see my sig but I have a Bullet Proof Diesel 6 phase FICM, 270 amp alt, most everything "bulletproof" . It was dark and had to get my son home so wife picked me up. Went this morning, still no start. I have a ScanGauge and here is what I found.

FICM 48V
IPC 971 cranking think it went higher
IPR 33 cranking
VLT (KO) 11.6
FVP 11.5
volts cranking 10.5 with jumper cables hooked up, I think it was about 10.3 or so after removed.

Need to check some other stuff but that is all I had programmed into the ScanGauge. Oh yeah, no codes.

The batteries are Duralast Gold, less than a year old. I took them to the RV dealership that I do work for and load tested. It looked like the needle landed right in between good and replace under load for 15 seconds. Probably still in the good side though (that was after charge).

I recharged tonight and just checked with hydrometer. Two cells are reading 50-75% right after charge, others at 100%. Haven't checked the other as it's charging now. I will take them to Autozone tomorrow and have them load test as I'm no expert in that area. I am hoping it's a bad battery. If so, I'll have to buy one if one is bad so they are matching, I hate that!

Thought about a fuel filter, needs changed but probably not the issue. I hear the pump running, haven't checked fuel pressure. The fuel level is lower than normal at 1/4 tank or so. Oil level is at full. I have had a no start before and it was a battery that cranked pretty good but needed replaced. I know the 6.0 is sensitive to voltage at startup.

What do you guys think?

Thanks!
Steve

 

Has the STC fitting ever been done? If it starts cold and no starts hot it's typically an HPO leak (internal) although your ICP looks decent. Also need to check sync/FICM sync.

 

May be a shot in the dark but if it doesn't start with the new batteries make sure to bring a 5 gallon gas can with diesel as the check valve on the return line ( at least I think it is the return line on the fuel pick-up inside the tank ) has been known to come off and cause the fuel pump to lose suction below 1/4 tank.

 

I bought the truck used so not sure about the STC fittings, dummy plugs etc. I was kind of thinking it didn't look like a HPO leak either.
Thanks

 

I was going to do just that! One thing I didn't mention, it's parked on a slight upward incline in the parking lot. I had been parked on a pretty good downward grade just before.
Thanks,
Steve

 

You ever get the Ole girl going?

 

Just got home. I took the batteries to Autozone for a load test. They said they checked out ok. I told them that the specific gravity test showed some cells not fully charged, she said they were within spec. I don't know what their tester does but on the one I used tested at load for as long as needed, I did 15 seconds as recommended.

Anyway, I took the charged batteries and put them back in the truck and it popped right over. So, I figure the short distances I drove didn't allow the alternator to get the battery where it needed to be. There is obviously something wrong with at lest one battery but I don't know what to to about getting it replaced. I am going to see what the voltage is in the morning and at start etc. I may just have to go back in with some data showing it's a failing battery. The only other thing I thought was that having the batteries out reset the PCM and fixed a problem but I don't know what that would be, as I said, no codes. For now it's running, going to keep an eye on the voltage.

Steve

 

also check your tension pulley on your serpentine

 

All that's good had it checked recently when I had a squeal in the engine compartment. Getting a good charge to the battery.
Thanks!

 

Check the voltage on each battery post not the connector while idling to verify that you do not have a cable problem. Both readings should be identical.

 

Thanks, I've done that, they are the same. Charging system seems to be functioning properly. The voltage was down to about 11.9-12V after sitting overnight. Going to keep watching it.