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Install a fuse/circuit breaker inline with any device you want to disrupt 12v to.
On the load side of the fuse, install a switch directly to ground.
When you exit the vehicle turn on the switch. When you come back to the vehicle turn it off.
If someone tries to take you truck and doesn't fine the switch first, bam fuse blows.
Then the bad guy will have to find not only the switch but also the blown fuse/circuit breaker.
Put the switch where it's handy but inconspicutious. Put the fuse holder under the hood somewhere.
Keep plenty of fuses handy. You'll need them when you first start using this system.
You'll need to determine what size fuse. Usually smaller than you think.
Fuse holder $1.00
Switch $2.00
Some wire $1.00
Keeping your truck where you park it. PRICELESS
PM me and I'll send you a drawing
Which reminds me of a Spanish guy at work (ok he's Mexican, but I was being PC about it) and he tells me "Nice Lobo!" I'm like "WTF is a Lobo?" He then explains the F in F Series isn't really used in Mexico and they are called Lobos.
"You're in 'Merica now bro, it's an F250 Superduty here"
That worked really well on the 7.3s, since it was under the hood back then. Now it's right there in the drivers fuse panel, with several compatible relays around it ......
After having my first 6.0 stolen then totaled because they torched the cab. My current truck has a club and a paging alarm system and in a couple of weeks when I get some time I will put a key switch on the brake system. Ok so they get it open and disable the alarm then cut the club off and if they get it started now they cant put it in gear due to no power to the brake system. I also backpack a lot and when I leave the truck at trailheads I pull the ficm relay.
One of my thoughts on the other ways to disable the truck is. If they are looking for this type
of truck and don't have the flatbed close by. They most likely will have an idea on how to
get the truck started. If the blocking device is in an unusual place or circuit then they are going
to have to spend the little time that they have to get it moving. Also the more time that they are
there the better the chance that the owner will come out guns-a-blazing.
The last time I got broken into I had just had surgery and did not put the sound in the right placement.
I was thinking about going out and when I do go out in the yard at night I tend to take my friends
Mr Smith and Mr Wesson with me. I have also been known when camping to step out of the tent with
a loaded AR-15. The hint there is NEVER come unannounced into my camp or any camp for that matter.
ANYWAY back on topic. I like the brake lockout idea. It's the ideas like that I am looking for.
I still like my IPR switch idea. The thing is you don't have to do this up at the switch. Somewhere
along the harness where is not as visible would be ideal.
That worked really well on the 7.3s, since it was under the hood back then. Now it's right there in the drivers fuse panel, with several compatible relays around it
I bought one of these but never installed it once I realized the relay is right there and it's the one that's obviously not a Ford relay...
A "nothing in this truck is worth your life" window decal and assorted 12 gague and 44mag brass laying in clear view inside and in box helps otherwise go oldschool with a main power shutoff like any heavy equipment uses and have the throw switch under the hood somewhere. Positive #1- no hood closes quiet. #2- it will save your batteries from draining. #3- it is always fun to play with electricity.
Here to run a diesel for oilcompanies you need a positive air shutoff installed incase the air around you becomes flameable in emergency situations the truck will runaway. You could install one and wire it to stay closed untill you flipped your secret switches and had key power.
If I told you, then EVERYONE would know know. Sorry, I ain't saying..... I will say it's more than one circuit......
I know it was about the same thing as a Revelco they pay High doller for Reallt close
you don't have to say How LOL
I wouldn't Tell that sh^t to us Bunch of Hodilums on FTE Either LOL
The way I see it ANYTHING Here would Work
If the Starter Hit it would make noise so it Must start Fast or they have to Bail
If the Starter Did NOT Hit they may Mess with it Longer since the Silence Hasn't been Broken to bad yet the Odds of them finding your switch or whatever is SLIM to NONE
Anyway you do it the Trucks Not Moving so Mission Accomplished The Ignition Switch might be Broken at this point but Better than dealing with a Totaled truck
I know it was about the same thing as a Revelco they pay High doller for Reallt close
you don't have to say How LOL
I wouldn't Tell that sh^t to us Bunch of Hodilums on FTE Either LOL
The way I see it ANYTHING Here would Work
If the Starter Hit it would make noise so it Must start Fast or they have to Bail
If the Starter Did NOT Hit they may Mess with it Longer since the Silence Hasn't been Broken to bad yet the Odds of them finding your switch or whatever is SLIM to NONE
Anyway you do it the Trucks Not Moving so Mission Accomplished The Ignition Switch might be Broken at this point but Better than dealing with a Totaled truck
I agree - hence a relay that connects the "start" input to the "horn" would break the silence and get them running quickly.
I was thinking that someone could home brew a
simple to make plug system with a cannon plug set
Mount the bulkhead connector on a plate and just take the plug with you
they also make a cap that you can put on the plug and no one will know that
is what is killing the truck at a quick glance. They to keep you KEY safe
you dump in some potting compound and let it harden.
All this while using the same black or white wire for the whole project.
To make it really fun on the dummy pins setup a timed relay that if they
jump the wrong ones together they get 5 minutes of the horn honking.
Sorry, been off the 'puter for a bit. A friend and I bought two at the same time and shipped to one address. This was back in May last year and I think we ended up paying $120 or $125 each delivered.
Directions I got were for it to replace the PCM relay in the driver's side fuse block. Wonder if it'd work on something under the hood instead (takes more time and it's more visible when you've got someone's hood in the air)...
I see yall reading more into than needs be . A good simple cut off . Ignition , start , ect. will do . Heck , My 45 does wonders at thwarting thieves ! My wife's 12 gauge Moss burg works better ! ( short range ) The sound of it racking makes a crook wet himself ! Trust me ,I know !Not rocket surgery (LOL) Easy to keep someone that cant buy pants that fit from steeling your truck !