Lets get some ideas going on this.

I was looking in the electrical diagram book today and had some ideas.
One thing I see is the IPR is feed it power from the PCM power relay
and the other side is switched ground by the PCM it's self. So
if one were to disable to the 12 getting to the IPR valve then you would
have a no start that would be hard for someone trying to steal your truck
to diagnose in the few minutes between you and the dog getting to them.
The way it works you would not have to worry about much other than a
relay that has too much resistance in the contacts and you can check that
before using that relay. The PCM uses the grounded side anyway.

The thing with that method is every thing will look like it should start.
To make it even better you could add some easy to bypass options and
the IPR would be the last thing.

Lets hear some of your ideas on this and the thoughts behind them.


Sean

 

I like the little window sticker with the crosshairs that says "smile and wait for the flash..."

Ya' really think I'd share on an open forum what I do to keep the truck where I left it?! Maybe if you had this in a members only area or something...

If one were to run a circuit (or two) in series through more than one and less than four of the up-fitter switches, that could take the average thief longer than he wants, even if he knew it was the switch combo that did it...

then again just a flashing led will deter most idiots.

 

In my experience I've found that thieves find it very difficult to steal anything whilst they have a 12 gauge sized hole in their chest.

Barring that...

You could wire something in with the shifter safety switch or the clutch safety in a manual.

 

That is not really what I was looking for.
But if a person were to put a relay in.
The person trying to take said truck
would have to find where the brake
was made and then if it was just 1
or maybe more.

We all know how hard it is to trace down wiring problems
and a well placed fault would drive someone nuts and
give the owner time to deal with them.

I am looking for ideas and also opinions on why or why not to do
something one way or not.

Sean

 

It would be much easier to disable the FICM voltage than IPR. It's as simple as popping the hood and removing the relay under the box OR adding a hidden switch in the cab.

 

I have an item called "Battery Brain" I bought a long time ago for a gaser that had an old battery. It still sits in a box brand new. I have thought about putting it on the truck but worried about it messing something up.
Wonder what you guys think of that idea.

 

I have heard of the switch for the FICM, just not sure how to wire it up. I know a great place for a switch to hide.

 

When I bought my truck I purchased the Ford remote start that had an alarm with it. It disables the engine when the alarm is activated and honks the horn when tripped. I cursed up and down at the $600.00 cost at the time. However last October some POS tried to take it off my drive way, they punched the passenger door lock and the alarm activated scaring him off. Now that $600.00 just paid for itself and I'm no longer bitching. After that and out of curiosity I activated the alarm and opened the door to set the alarm off. I then used the key to try and start the engine and it would not start, the ignition would just turn. I also use a club but I have tinted windows and I don't think dirt bag would have been able to see it n the dark. So I guess my point is why complicate it by trying to bypass the FICM or other components? Other than maybe being cheaper, why not get a system that is designed to work with your trucks system?

 

A big sign that says "it's a 6.0" would run most folks off!

 

Gunnar,
Some members, like me, have a base model XL which has NO power options. Installing a keyless entry is kind of pointless. I would however add this if I already had power locks. To add the system and 4 door lock actuators would be more than I really wanted to do.

All of these security measures really don't matter if they have a tow truck or a repo type hidden stinger.

I also have a K18 system for my entire property.

It consists if two very territorial German Shepherds (K9 + K9 = K18) who don't like uninvited company. I also have video surveillance so in case somebody did try something, I can watch it over and over laughing at the outcome.

 

That is true, never thought of that. In those cases I can certainly see the point.

 

here is what i use:

Viper - SmartStart

here's why:

the tools in the vehicle far exceed the value of the vehicle
if the tools disappear, i don't *need* the vehicle

options include auxiliary battery, auxiliary horn, etc.

if you disconnect the vehicles batteries, i get an alarm on
my phone, and on my keyfob. if you set off the alarm, i get
that as well.

there is an accessory that sets an alarm if you post something
i don't like on the internet, but i didn't get that feature.

once you get into the vehicle, the only thing you can do is
grab what you can, and run. most all of the tools are
locked up, and you have a short while to get thru the mul-t-locks

Home Page - Mul-T-lock

before i respond to the alarm.

if you pop the hood, and rip off the siren, there is another siren.

if you put the whole thing on a flat bed hauler, and drive off, there
is a supplemental location device that runs for ten days.

the vehicle is usually parked within 100 yards of me. when it's in
front of my house, and i'm not there, you have a local sherriff on
one side of me, and a secret service agent lives on the other side.

i'm in a cul-d-sack. do you feel lucky today?

note: in the last two years, my area has been getting people
targeting econoline work trucks for the tools. they steal the
wheels, park it a mile or two away to see if there is location
devices, then empty it after a couple days. a certified welder
who lives half a mile from me has had his e van stolen, twice.
there have been over twenty thefts following this pattern.

i've never had the alarm set off, ever.

 

What I would do if I had to leave my truck in a shady area is pull the FICM relay and stick it in my pocket. Of course all it would take to bypass that would be a piece of wire, but how many thieves would be smart enough to quickly figure out the relay was missing and then know how to bypass it? Most thieves around here aren't even smart enough to buy the right size pants.

 

I also remember reading that the plastic door handles make these trucks easier to break into. Thought about replacing with an aftermarket.

 

That worked really well on the 7.3s, since it was under the hood back then. Now it's right there in the drivers fuse panel, with several compatible relays around it

I bought one of these but never installed it once I realized the relay is right there and it's the one that's obviously not a Ford relay...

Cyclops No-Start Anti-Theft Relay System

Isn't there a unit called Revalco or something like that that's pretty hard to defeat??