build sheet
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Marti can provide a new Warranty Plate with correct codes stamped on it...as long as OP comes up with the correct VIN (this is illegal in some states, but most peeps are unaware).
But, the Warranty Plate is not that important, because the VIN that is stamped on it, is not used by DMV and/or Law Enforcement for title or registration purposes, as it's too EZ to change.
For example: Swapping damaged left doors with used doors. What percentage of the people installed the original Warranty Plates on the replaced doors? Probably less than .001%
For title/registration purposes: DMV/Law Enforcement go by hidden frame VIN and it could be anywhere, as location varied based on assembly plants.
1981: When I pulled the engine from my '65 F100 (I bought it new, assembled @ San Jose 1/1965), VIN was stamped on the engine cross member directly below the harmonic balancer.
Beginning circa 1988, in an effort to cut down on thefts, the NHTSA mandated that automakers stamp the VIN on all sorts of mechanical/body parts. VIN also printed on stick-on labels that resist being peeled off.
But, the Warranty Plate is not that important, because the VIN that is stamped on it, is not used by DMV and/or Law Enforcement for title or registration purposes, as it's too EZ to change.
For example: Swapping damaged left doors with used doors. What percentage of the people installed the original Warranty Plates on the replaced doors? Probably less than .001%
For title/registration purposes: DMV/Law Enforcement go by hidden frame VIN and it could be anywhere, as location varied based on assembly plants.
1981: When I pulled the engine from my '65 F100 (I bought it new, assembled @ San Jose 1/1965), VIN was stamped on the engine cross member directly below the harmonic balancer.
Beginning circa 1988, in an effort to cut down on thefts, the NHTSA mandated that automakers stamp the VIN on all sorts of mechanical/body parts. VIN also printed on stick-on labels that resist being peeled off.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,670
Likes: 8
Maybe not the warranty tag, I agree, but the frame is. That subed in frame must come papered or it needs a Ref. AND pass that its not stolen. I still hold that the title is worthless unless you have the frame to match.
Course its really none of my business. I only meant to offer a little info on what I've experienced. Think about this. If he checks into it and finds out it IS stolen- then what do ya do, give it back to the dealer knowing its stolen and just say nothing to local law enforcement. Or give it back before you know for sure. I sure as hell wouldn't want that on my conscience. I DO wish him good luck. And I think I'll just stay out of it. I've said too much already.
Course its really none of my business. I only meant to offer a little info on what I've experienced. Think about this. If he checks into it and finds out it IS stolen- then what do ya do, give it back to the dealer knowing its stolen and just say nothing to local law enforcement. Or give it back before you know for sure. I sure as hell wouldn't want that on my conscience. I DO wish him good luck. And I think I'll just stay out of it. I've said too much already.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,308
Likes: 19
From: Las Vegas, NV
I have a problem with the fact that the vin on the title doesn't match either other vin on the vehicle. It should match at least one of them to even be considered belonging to the truck. Dealers have ways to get titles for vehicles, so why does this one not match?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Hey Masked Rider, I couldn't agree more which is why I'm going through this frame vin thing, yuk! So just now I've sent three report requests to Marti to compare what I have with what the vin's say I have.
When they come back (they say 10-14 days) I should have a clearer picture of what has happened. I really don't want to go to the authorities or back to the dealer unless I have at least most of the answers to the questions.
I'll post my findings when it all comes back, thanks everyone, Russ.
When they come back (they say 10-14 days) I should have a clearer picture of what has happened. I really don't want to go to the authorities or back to the dealer unless I have at least most of the answers to the questions.
I'll post my findings when it all comes back, thanks everyone, Russ.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Hey Masked Rider, I couldn't agree more which is why I'm going through this frame vin thing, yuk! So just now I've sent three report requests to Marti to compare what I have with what the vin's say I have.
When they come back (they say 10-14 days) I should have a clearer picture of what has happened. I really don't want to go to the authorities or back to the dealer unless I have at least most of the answers to the questions.
I'll post my findings when it all comes back, thanks everyone, Russ.
When they come back (they say 10-14 days) I should have a clearer picture of what has happened. I really don't want to go to the authorities or back to the dealer unless I have at least most of the answers to the questions.
I'll post my findings when it all comes back, thanks everyone, Russ.
If you post these 3 VIN's, I can decode them.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
I would write all three vins on a scrap of paper, and go in to the DMV saying you are looking at a few trucks, and would like to know if there would be any issues with registration.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Sheriff looked at the VIN on the registration, compared it to the "VIN" on the Warranty Plate, it matched.
Be thankful your truck has its original left door.
Here's a sample of a 1964/65 US truck Warranty Plate. Notice: NOT FOR TITLE OR REGISTRATION PURPOSES is printed below the "VIN" that FoMoCo referred to as the 'Warranty Number' on Warranty Plates.
I typed it in capital letters as that's how it was originally printed. I have a 27" monitor, but others may not, might be difficult to make out wording in pic.
Be thankful your truck has its original left door.
Here's a sample of a 1964/65 US truck Warranty Plate. Notice: NOT FOR TITLE OR REGISTRATION PURPOSES is printed below the "VIN" that FoMoCo referred to as the 'Warranty Number' on Warranty Plates.
I typed it in capital letters as that's how it was originally printed. I have a 27" monitor, but others may not, might be difficult to make out wording in pic.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
O.k. folks here goes! Number Dummy, thanks as always for valuable info. I don't see a good reason why I should not post the VINs so...This is probably gonna get long.
Title- F10ANM81468
Data Plate- F10GLP84815
Frame- F10WLM47678
The title is what the dealer provided from the previous registration surrendered by the previous owner. They say they were advised by the DMV that if it was registered that way once, just re-register it! What a way to do business. The data plate has been either removed or replaced. Slightly bent plate, not fully seated rivets, but both are factory style.
Frame # is from a tracing I took and am FAIRLY satisfied with all except the engine letter. Simply could not read it so I picked the W. It could be the 360 (Y) of course and I'll try that next time if Marti says it isn't valid.
The frame has an FE with a C-6 and I believe a 3:25 diff.
Title- F10ANM81468
Data Plate- F10GLP84815
Frame- F10WLM47678
The title is what the dealer provided from the previous registration surrendered by the previous owner. They say they were advised by the DMV that if it was registered that way once, just re-register it! What a way to do business. The data plate has been either removed or replaced. Slightly bent plate, not fully seated rivets, but both are factory style.
Frame # is from a tracing I took and am FAIRLY satisfied with all except the engine letter. Simply could not read it so I picked the W. It could be the 360 (Y) of course and I'll try that next time if Marti says it isn't valid.
The frame has an FE with a C-6 and I believe a 3:25 diff.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
continued. Almost all the numbers on components on the frame fall into the same general dates for a 72 model.
The body has all matching original panels. The factory paint lines (2 tone) are all visible beneath the primer and on the edges. Panel fit on front end is poor. Bolts on front end have been moved. Shift collar on column is grey primer as if a new part. No clutch pedal visible but.... If the body was swapped it was done a long time ago because of rust and condition of bolts and such. I won't put up with a stolen vehicle, but I also won't surrender it to the State to be crushed. Going after the dealer is an option but I really want the truck and with only $900. in it I'll use it for parts. I want to do the right thing and that's why I'm going through all this crap.
Anyway, don't any of you quit commenting because you've all helped and are appreciated. Going to get this thing solved yet, thanks, Russ.
The body has all matching original panels. The factory paint lines (2 tone) are all visible beneath the primer and on the edges. Panel fit on front end is poor. Bolts on front end have been moved. Shift collar on column is grey primer as if a new part. No clutch pedal visible but.... If the body was swapped it was done a long time ago because of rust and condition of bolts and such. I won't put up with a stolen vehicle, but I also won't surrender it to the State to be crushed. Going after the dealer is an option but I really want the truck and with only $900. in it I'll use it for parts. I want to do the right thing and that's why I'm going through all this crap.
Anyway, don't any of you quit commenting because you've all helped and are appreciated. Going to get this thing solved yet, thanks, Russ.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
A = 240 1V I-6.
N = Norfolk VA Assembly Plant.
M81468 = 1972.
-------------------
F10 = F100 2WD
G = 302 2V
L = Michigan Truck Assembly Plant.
P84815 = 1972.
-------------------
F10 = F100 2WD
W =
No such VIN engine code / 240/302 decoded, other possibles: B = 300 1V I-6 / H = 390 2V / Y = 360 2VL = Michigan Truck Assembly Plant.
M47678 = 1972.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,010
Likes: 250
From: North Pole, Alaska
Funny that these vin's are all 72's. I would check with Carfax to see if you get a hit on any of these numbers plus the vin on the Safety Certification sticker on the B pillar of the cab if it is legible (probably was scrubbed away with solvent) since the others come back as 72's.
Tennessee DMV even has a section where you can get a link for checking a car's history (Even though I couldn't see any links on my laptop. It might work for you.)
Tennessee DMV even has a section where you can get a link for checking a car's history (Even though I couldn't see any links on my laptop. It might work for you.)
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2010
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Here we go again folks. Feel like I'm making progress...two steps forward, one step back! Number Dummy, once again please? Engine code on the frame # was a late night brain fade, it is "H". Checked the stroke.
Here's what the data plate says, (will try to upload a pic tonight) under the engine code, G it's supposed to be a 302, but the net H.P. is listed at 134? Also the paint code is "T", but the truck body is clearly a two tone "combination" scheme in red and white, white roof, red upper body, white lower body?. The body code is 5 4, can't find that code anywhere. Going to go to the Tn. DMV web site and try there. Thanks, Russ.
Here's what the data plate says, (will try to upload a pic tonight) under the engine code, G it's supposed to be a 302, but the net H.P. is listed at 134? Also the paint code is "T", but the truck body is clearly a two tone "combination" scheme in red and white, white roof, red upper body, white lower body?. The body code is 5 4, can't find that code anywhere. Going to go to the Tn. DMV web site and try there. Thanks, Russ.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Here we go again folks. Feel like I'm making progress...two steps forward, one step back! Number Dummy, once again please? Engine code on the frame # was a late night brain fade, it is "H". Checked the stroke.
Here's what the data plate says, (will try to upload a pic tonight) under the engine code, G it's supposed to be a 302, but the net H.P. is listed at 134?
Net HP @ the rear wheels. Gross HP @ the flywheel.
Also the paint code is "T", but the truck body is clearly a two tone "combination" scheme in red and white, white roof, red upper body, white lower body?.
The body code is 5 4, can't find that code anywhere.
Here's what the data plate says, (will try to upload a pic tonight) under the engine code, G it's supposed to be a 302, but the net H.P. is listed at 134?
Net HP @ the rear wheels. Gross HP @ the flywheel.
Also the paint code is "T", but the truck body is clearly a two tone "combination" scheme in red and white, white roof, red upper body, white lower body?.
The body code is 5 4, can't find that code anywhere.
1972 Warranty Plate:
COLOR code T = Candyapple Red / Tutone red & white would be COLOR code TM ~ M = Wimbledon White.
BODY code 5 4: 5 = Medium & Dark Red Vinyl (Custom) / 4 = Styleside Pickup.
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