Hi all. Got a new project. 72 F100 short bed. Have a small problem however. Got a clean title? from the dealer I bought it from. They simply re-registered it from the previous owner.
Here's the problem; the door tag doesn't match the title, nor does the vin match the vin on the frame (what I can read of it). I know sometimes the door has been changed but I've been all through that. All original panels on the truck but the data plate is clearly from something else.
Is there a more legible hidden vin under the cab and how do you read/get to it? Or better yet, did they stuff the build sheet somewhere in the cab that I might look for? Like I said the truck is very original and mostly unmolested so I smell a rat somewhere and don't want to start putting money into something that may have a troubled history. Thanks, Russ.

 

does the door tag match the frame vin?

 

No it doesn't. One vin on title, one on data plate, one on frame. I've spent several hours trying to read the one on the pass. side frame. It was lightly stamped from the factory and can't quite get it right. I've found build sheets in other vehicles in various places and was hoping it might be in the truck somewhere.

 

The build sheet might be under the seat tucked into the springs but it's not going to do you much good if the frame vin and door plate don't match. It's just a piece of paper...

 

I've checked in the seat bottom and back...no luck. But thanks. I know the data (door plate) is not correct. It is obvious it has been changed. The door is original to the truck. In my opinion the truck is original; drivetrain, body panels, interior etc. So if I can find the build sheet I can check the partial vin with the one on the sheet and get a report from Marti.
My fear is that the truck was stolen at some point and they've scammed a dealer or two into issuing another title. My local Tn. Highway Patrol tells me they can check it out but if it turns out stolen they will confiscate.
So I'm trying to authenticate it under the radar.

 

This sucks. if frame doesn't match i would be nervous for sure! Good luck! Yes they will take your truck if it comes up stolen!

 

What you can look for is what is called a buck tag. These were put on when it as it rolled down the assembly line. One was attached to the lower back, driver side, outside of the cab. Another was attached under the dash. If you find one, post the #s or post the data plate from the door. Numberdummy is the one to see to decode all this info when you post it.

"ID plates on firewalls and other locations are BUCK TAGS used by assembly line workers.

These tags may or may not have the VIN on them, and if they do...

Sometimes these so-called VIN's have 12 to 20 digits...not something to go by to get the correct info.

As original, the ELEVEN digit VIN is on the Warranty Plate, located and riveted on the left door face below the door latch.

However, if the left door has been changed, the VIN on the Warranty Plate prolly will not match the VIN on the registration.

As noted in the post above, the VIN is stamped on the top of the passenger side frame rail.

Ford assembly plants did not always stamp the VIN in the same location, so...it could be under the cab, or partially under the cab, or just in front of the cab.

It's also possblie to have the VIN stamped on the top of the drivers side frame rail, adjacent to the steering gearbox.

The "hidden" VIN was used by Ford Dealers, DMV's and Police to verify if the vehicle was titled correctly. In other words...not stolen."
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...in-number.html

 

Also check the Safety Standard Certification Label in the cab opening if it is legible:


1963/79: Metal Warranty Plate riveted to the left door face below the latch.

Beginning 1970 .. Safety Standard Certification Label glued to the B pillar below the striker plate.

Label is actually 2 ply, composed of a clear outer layer, inner layer has the production date, VIN printed on it and that's about it thru 1972.

The problem was, the label got wet, the clear outer layer peeled off, taking some/all of the inner layer codes along with it.

Check the door tag to see what type of rivets were used to fasten it to the door. They should look like this:

 

I would attempt to get the frame vin and run it by DMV. Something is really wrong if the title vin doesn't match either that is on the truck.

 

Sounds to me like somebody had a title and a rusted up mess. Then went junk yard hunting and built the truck with a frame from this truck. Cab from that truck. Etc. AKA jigsaw puzzle.

 

Ewwww... titling problems when nothing matches can get messy.

You may want to go back to the dealer and have them straighten it out since they are liable for a potentially fraudulent sale.... and dealers are subject to more regulations than a transaction btwn private parties.

 

The rivets FoMoCo used to retain Warranty Plates to doors are unique (see pic in post #8), so if just the Warranty Plate was replaced (which I doubt), it will be very obvious.

1967/72 F100/750 doors will all interchange, but 1967's do not have door lock *****, use different inside handles (and etc internal parts) than 1968/72's.

Warranty Plate used on 1970/72's is slightly different than the Warranty Plate used on 1966/69's.

Pics from 1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog:

Left upper: Sample of 1966/69 Warranty Plate / Right: Sample of 1970/72 Warranty Plate / Left lower: Sample of 1970/72 Safety Standard Certification Label.

 

Hey everyone thanks for all the good advice. On closer inspection it appears that the frame and drivetrain may be from one truck and everything above the frame from another. I found the neutral safety switch is not connected and no wires to do so. Also up under the dash all the wires in one loom were cut and reconnected. They did a neat job but it's been changed nonetheless. Some of the panels are off just a little bit and all the bolts on the front clip are moved. I think Jefffafa has hit the nail on the head. Now I need to find some sort of ink or something that will highlight the light stamping on the frame, then I'll take N.D.s advice and go to Marti with all three VINs and try to recreate what took place. Any leads on the ink would be appreciated, thanks, Russ.

 

1965/77: NSS located on steering column / 1978/79: NSS located on transmission. C4 uses a different NSS than C6.

1978 was the first year FoMoCo offered a tilt wheel (optional) for F100/350, Bronco & Econoline with A/T & 4 speeds (not available with 3 M/T).

Tilt wheel operated by pressing the turn signal handle forward.

 

You really need think this out before you spend ANY $$$ on this truck. I've gone through this before more than once when I was building hot rods.

You say nothing matches - title #, Frame #, Warrantee #.

First off. The way it stands right now, that piece of paper - title, its worthless. You have NO frame or warrantee tag to match it. Who knows where those items are anymore. And you can't just hang it on the frame you have. Sorry. I know of NO State that would let you do that.

You will need to go through a State referee, (Police type) to issues you a NEW title for the frame you are in possession of - providing the frame is not stolen. Than you will need to have a warranty tag, if possible, made up according to - who knows what.
Remember, all 3 items much match...

You are talking big $$$ to go through that process. I know this first hand. Before you start spending ANY $$$ on that thing, you need to make sure things match.
Before I would do any of all this, I would take it back to the dealer and demand your $$$ back. JMO. Even if you already started pulling the thing apart, they are sill liable. The dealer sold you a vehicle in which they could be charged with fraud and locked up. I kid you not on this. The dealer MUST, on every vehicle, make sure the title matches the warranty/vin #. Did they tell you the history on the truck and how they took it in? Most likely they took it in on trade and one of their salesman didn't verify the #s on the truck matched.
They made another booboo when they chose not to tell you about the #s not matching. They again will verify #s match when sell it.
Good luck. I mean that...