spark plug removal
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FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: northwestern Ontario
spark plug removal
I've got a spark plug that is very hard to remove because I don't have much clearance around the headers. socket sits right against the header, can't put a rachet on it. Anyone invent a tool that might help me out. The problem is the design of the headers.
Posting Guru
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You might be able to grind the socket to clear. Somewhere in my past I remember seeing a spark plug socket that had about 1/3 of the middle strategically cut out of it. It was 12-point and was meant to be rotated only a bit, reseated, rotated, etc. It was a commercial tool, not homemade. But you can certainly make one if needed.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
Headers and spark plug clearance has been an issue since the beginning of time. It still surprises me after all these years; you'd think header makers could figure that out. I think that's the reason the BFH was invented, to create needed socket room. You wouldn't be the first person to make a header dimple as necessary. Not sure what socket you're using, but this is also the reason spark plug sockets have a hex on the end, so you can put a wrench on it when you can't attach the ratchet to the end.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
I had a SAAB that was bad on one cylinder with the factory manifold. They supplied a wrench that was made from the tube part (below), cut short and with the handle welded to the outside. I couldn't get much swing with it, but it worked.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Tennessee
There is a plug socket just for hedder apps . It is short and the plug passes through it . You turn it with an open end or box end wrench . Snap On sells one . I also think you can get them from JEGG's and Summit . I made one with a large nut an an old plug socket .
Last edited by JWC 3; Jul 21, 2013 at 06:06 PM. Reason: missed a word
FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Im using something like Ross shows in the above pic. It's rusty and has been in my toolbox as long as I can remember, but it works on that one plug that has issues.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: northwestern Ontario
Headers and spark plug clearance has been an issue since the beginning of time. It still surprises me after all these years; you'd think header makers could figure that out. I think that's the reason the BFH was invented, to create needed socket room. You wouldn't be the first person to make a header dimple as necessary. Not sure what socket you're using, but this is also the reason spark plug sockets have a hex on the end, so you can put a wrench on it when you can't attach the ratchet to the end.
I have a few sockets like this one and the one I'm using is 1/4" shorter than the others, I guess I'll pull out the grinder to shorten one even more. If that don't work I'll try Effietrucks approach. I didn't have any fenders on the truck when I put them in and it's a little more confined with everything assembled. The reason for removing the plugs now is because I was advised to crank the engine over until I see oil pressure in the event that I might spine a bearing . I've had the motor for 1 1/2 years new out of a crate and never run yet. I think I'm ready to light it up. I've got all the plugs out but one. Do you think cranking it over with that one cylinder having compression will hurt anything as there is no chance of it firing.
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Won't hurt anything but it sure will limp and slow down rotation. Can you just crack it loose enough to bleed pressure?
If you grind a socket from the driven end, try to do two things:
1: Keep it cool so you don't ruin the temper of the metal.
2: Grind the outer periphery but don't grind the very end to where you'll risk shearing off the drive pin on a good ratchet. The drive pin is hollow, and thus weak, where the ball/spring mechanism is. Therefore, if it can't seat fully into a socket it can easily sheer.
Please don't ask me how I learned that little factoid.
If you grind a socket from the driven end, try to do two things:
1: Keep it cool so you don't ruin the temper of the metal.
2: Grind the outer periphery but don't grind the very end to where you'll risk shearing off the drive pin on a good ratchet. The drive pin is hollow, and thus weak, where the ball/spring mechanism is. Therefore, if it can't seat fully into a socket it can easily sheer.
Please don't ask me how I learned that little factoid.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
What engine is this? If it's a SBF or SBC, you can buy a tool to drive the oil pump with a 1/2" drill by removing the distributor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/me...FcxAMgodOGUAug
It's a lot better than spinning the engine without plugs. Although I doubt doing either is likely to hurt it. I've never heard of a crate engine being assembled without assembly lube.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/me...FcxAMgodOGUAug
It's a lot better than spinning the engine without plugs. Although I doubt doing either is likely to hurt it. I've never heard of a crate engine being assembled without assembly lube.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Tennessee
What engine is this? If it's a SBF or SBC, you can buy a tool to drive the oil pump with a 1/2" drill by removing the distributor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/me...FcxAMgodOGUAug
It's a lot better than spinning the engine without plugs. Although I doubt doing either is likely to hurt it. I've never heard of a crate engine being assembled without assembly lube.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/me...FcxAMgodOGUAug
It's a lot better than spinning the engine without plugs. Although I doubt doing either is likely to hurt it. I've never heard of a crate engine being assembled without assembly lube.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: northwestern Ontario
I shortened a socket and was able to remove the plug. Looks like it would be easier going from the bottom and likely how I'll have to reinstall it. Ross I realize there should be lots of assembly lube being a new engine in all but with no experience prior to this build I tend to listen to probably too many people willing to share advice and do things that are probably unneccessary. I've managed to even purchase parts I didn't really need too over the last several years. Good thing it's only money eh! lol (not really)
Tuned
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 408
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From: Yucca, AZ
Hey John, I had the same problem with my 69 Mustang with the Cobra Jet 428. OEM said I had to pull the engine to change the plugs but, I had a "Better Idea". I drilled holes strategically positioned in my inner fender well to align with each plug. This required removing the front wheel to access the outer area of the inner fender well but it worked slicker than snake snot on hoe handle. Once the job was done I plugged the holes with flat grommets. Problem solved. You might consider doing something along those lines for your future tune ups. Lord knows....ya might loose that one "special" plug tool some day and then your stuck again. Just a thought.
Capt.
P.S.
I too use the "screwdriver in the drill" oil pump primer method, especially with a SBC, but....(there's always a BUT) make sure you or one of your buds bump the motor over a few revolutions as your priming the pump. This insures proper distribution of the oil and your lifters pump up.
Capt.
P.S.
I too use the "screwdriver in the drill" oil pump primer method, especially with a SBC, but....(there's always a BUT) make sure you or one of your buds bump the motor over a few revolutions as your priming the pump. This insures proper distribution of the oil and your lifters pump up.
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