crazy, dumb or why not?
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From: Southern SC.
crazy, dumb or why not?
The F3's bed has major swiss cheese that I am fixing. The rear differential is off an 82 F250 and is too wide (done when it was going to have a stake bed replacement). The rear fear fenders are all done too original F3 size. (couldn't find a stake bed it better shape than the p/u bed). If I put it all back together the fenders won't go over the wheels. So one solution is to:
1: add 3 inches to each fender - lots of work & welding -- not the best welder in the forum!
2: add 6 inches to the middle of the back of the bed (near the cab)and put a 3 inch side on each side of the tail gate - need all new floor and cross member any way including the metal at the rear.
3: Replace the differential & drive shaft to fit the bed.
The budget is way over even the extra contingency fund is gone so #2 is the least expensive and most likely the easiest to do. Also keeps me out of trouble with my better half. The question is why shouldn't I do it that way and should do #3 or ??? Tell me I'm crazy, nuts, stupid or what ever I really want to know why this may be a very dumb idea that I haven't thought of. Dave S
1: add 3 inches to each fender - lots of work & welding -- not the best welder in the forum!
2: add 6 inches to the middle of the back of the bed (near the cab)and put a 3 inch side on each side of the tail gate - need all new floor and cross member any way including the metal at the rear.
3: Replace the differential & drive shaft to fit the bed.
The budget is way over even the extra contingency fund is gone so #2 is the least expensive and most likely the easiest to do. Also keeps me out of trouble with my better half. The question is why shouldn't I do it that way and should do #3 or ??? Tell me I'm crazy, nuts, stupid or what ever I really want to know why this may be a very dumb idea that I haven't thought of. Dave S
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
It is a lot more difficult to do bodywork on flat panels than curved ones, so I would pick 1 over 2. 3 would be my first choice tho, In the long run would be the cheapest as well, especially if you can find a buyer for the rear you have now.
PS: have you read my welding tutorial? If you follow it, it will make you a better welder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
PS: have you read my welding tutorial? If you follow it, it will make you a better welder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
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Posting Guru
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From: Southern SC.
Thanks Ax I did read your tutorial that's how I did the fenders. Doing the fenders means approx 16 feet of welding doing the bed is about 8 feet. Doing the 3 would also mean new wheels as current ones are 8 bolt and not sure if I could get a diff small enough with 8 bolt pattern. I will have to check it out. But is there any logical reason why doing the bed expansion wouldn't work? Thanks Dave s
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
If you widened the bed it would be wider than the cab and wouldn't look right. I don't know how the stock fenders don't fit over the wider rear axle as they do on my truck.
This was before I went to duals on the rear.
This was before I went to duals on the rear.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
F1 fenders are wider than F2-3 fenders, so if all you're looking for is extra tire clearance and width, using F1 fenders on your truck would be the easiest way to do it. With a heck of a lot less welding, too.
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Posting Guru
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From: Southern SC.
Thanks guys. F1 fenders would be great but trying to find them seems to be a problem reading other posts. I could go fiberglass then sell the F3 fenders and maybe come out close to even but the wheel openings are so different on F1's and all fiber glass I have seen are F1's. Nathan what diff are you running. Dave S
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From: Southern SC.
Just took some measurements and the only part of the bed that would stick out beyond the cab would be the stake pockets the actual box would be very close to the edges of the cab
Cost and time are a big consideration it might take a while to find new fenders that fit same with selling the diff and finding a new one and still not sure if the expansion is a valid way to go. Any other ideas or reason not to do it I still not positive it is a reasonable idea or not on iPhone so apologize for typos
Cost and time are a big consideration it might take a while to find new fenders that fit same with selling the diff and finding a new one and still not sure if the expansion is a valid way to go. Any other ideas or reason not to do it I still not positive it is a reasonable idea or not on iPhone so apologize for typos
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Houston
Maybe you could find some wheels with deep backspace and avoid all that welding, cutting, etc. I am not sure what is available with 8 lug, but maybe. Good luck with whatever you end up doing. If you have more time than money then maybe either 1. or 2.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
My rear axle is a 1969 Dana 70B but the hub to hub width is the same as a 1973-1996 F-150/250/350 at 65". If your axle was out of an econoline then it'll be 3" wider than the truck axles.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,175
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From: Burbank, WA
With fiberglass F1 fenders, it would be really easy to open the wheel openings to match the F3 size. Make a pattern from your old fenders, lay them over the 'glass replacements and get out the grinder. In about 5 minutes you'll be all set.
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Posting Guru
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From: Southern SC.
Thanks guys all kinds of options to think about. Wish I had more bucks to put in this truck but work is slow so I have to be careful what I spend. Time welding is time wl spent and is getting to be more fun. Doing it on the ends of the bed would not be as noticeable as on the fenders. Just have to decide which way to go. Thanks for the input. Dave S
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Are F-3 Express beds flat on the side like 51-52 F-1's? or do they have the indents like 48-50 F-1 beds? Re-doing the flange to match would be ugly.
It seems like you've got just one piece that doesn't fit with your current plans (the axle), why not sell the one you've got, and buy the right one?
It seems like you've got just one piece that doesn't fit with your current plans (the axle), why not sell the one you've got, and buy the right one?
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Posting Guru
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From: Southern SC.
Ross the bed sides have about a 2 1/2 to 3 inch deep wheel well on a 49 F3. With the current wheels, tires and differential I could move race side out 3 inches with no problem rubbing. I'm going to look for a smaller with diff or as suggested maybe just a bigger backspace on the wheels