You have good HPOP numbers

You are showing good FICM volts.

You're showing at least 1 of the Synchs, whether that is the FICM/PCM or CPS/CKS Synch.

That doesn't mean the FICM logic side isn't toast.

You know a good redneck way to check the FICM? Cold engine, use a good hair dryer or heat gun and heat the FICM up nice and toasty and then try a cold start.

Josh

 

The top two sync codes above display what they are labeled, FICM and cam/crank signal. The bottom two are alternate codes for cam/crank signal. Some trucks would show a blank screen (due to flash version?) with the first set of codes so the alternates are for use if you get no reading with the first cam/crank sync code.

The FICM sync is it's own code and has worked well on all 6.0's.

The cam and crank signals are interdependent, that is to say signals from BOTH sensors must be present and within a specific range in order for the PCM to know the position of the crank and which stroke it's on (intake or power, compression or exhaust) and exactly where in the stroke it is. So they are "synced" together and have one status for both.

You can skip checking these individually by using either one of these codes:

FUE INJECTOR PULSE WIDTH.

INJPW 07E0221410 046245140610 3010 044C04E2FFF1 FPW Microseconds (table)
INJPW 07E0221410 046205140610 3010 000800010000 FPW Microseconds (modified)

If either of these read anything except 0, you have both sync signals as they must both be present in order for the FICM to fire the injectors. It's been awhile since I played with this but IIRC there is at least one more input required (ICP maybe) to fire injectors, but as I said if it reads, you have both sync's.

Sorry, I've lost track of the tables and explanation of what the pulse width should be on a properly running engine.

 

Just to keep those advised who have been helping me with this situation truck has since Monday been firing up on cold soak without problem.

Thurs HPOP changed.
Fri - Slight slow start ,5 seconds (air in system??)
SAT-fired right up
SUN - fired right up

Mon - very slow to start

Tues - Wed with nose down fired right up
Wed - level, fired right up
Thurs- level, no problem
Truck is now on blocks nose up - I will report what happens

Thanks for all your advice

Mark

 

Thanks for keeping us updated Mark. I had to look a bit to find the thread to see if it was still going.

Did you ever get your truck code scanned, although it may have previous codes in it?

 

The mech who changed to HPOP scanned it before he changed the pump and nothing showed. Will try again.

Mark

 

That's cool, I just never saw any. I wouldn't bother unless it acts stupid again. How long are you going to let it sit nose up before you try to crank it?

 

Beenup there since 10 this Am will crank tomorrow at 6AM. Fingers crossed. In some ways hope it doesn't fire so I can get a chance to diagnose. Hate the uncertainty of an intermittent problem and the possibility of being stuck in an inconvenient location

Mark

 

If it does have a long crank to start I'd think that your ICP will "crash" in short fashion and IPR% will go to 85 but both should recover rather quickly. Then you know where your problem lies. If not it's off to wire city.

 

Watching this thread as I am having the same issue with a 2005 Excursion 6.0. Mine seemed to start when all of a sudden last year it would crank but would not start. After three days of trying to start it, I unplugged the middle connecter for the ECU behind the drivers side battery, plugged it back in and it started. Been starting ever since but usually cranks for 10 seconds before it fires. Sometimes it will fire right up although it never starts right up first thing in the morning. I'm suspecting an electrical issue. All SG II numbers appear to be good. The FICM was replaced (with a Ford reman unit) 2 years ago after a bad alternator zapped the batteries. Replaced alternator with DC Power unit.

 

Fired right up this morning after being on a nose up situation for 18 hours.

Strange and hard to diagnose until she wont fire up.

Mark

 

Maybe she was just having a Monday morning and didn't want to go to work.

 

Leaning towards a FICM sync problem. Had a realtively long 10 to 12 second crank and was watching the FICM Sync closely which was reading 0 until she eventually fired up when it changed over to a 1.

where to look for the problem, in the FICM itself , or in the sensors themselves both of which were replaced at the same time as the engine wiring harness.

As Always, your input is greatly appreciated


Regards Mark

 

Check the Tech Folder in the FICM section under FICM- Fuel Injection Control Module Guide. This tells about sync/no sync starting on page 11 of the PDF.

 

there are 2 syncs as well, sync and ficm sync

 

OK looks like the winner is in fact FICM SYNC problem. Looks like I was not getting a good sync.
Turns out that the Cam Shaft Sensor that was installed with the new engine wiring harness was faulty. ( I had only suggested replacing it as a while you are in there you might as well do it and the CKP sensor as a security).
Dealer mechanic showed the fauly sensor to me and the face of the piece where it bolts to the block was a little bowed or convex resulting in the end of the sensor not protruding quite far enough in to make a good contact / signal. the signal was there but intermittently weak.
Still don't quite understand why it would only show up under a cold soak scenario, but hoping that this was indeed the problem. Dealer replaced at no cost due to faulty part.

Probably never needed to replace the HPOP but at least its now done and I possibly would have had to do it in the next 50K miles anyway so one less thing to leave me on the side of the road at an inopportune time.

Thanks for everyone's help and input on this issue, I really do appreciate it. You guys rock.


Mark